aWorkOfArt

I wonder what numbers people are putting down with Takeda intake, PPE headers and a JoeZ Exhaust?

anxiouz

iTrader: (9)

Nice numbers with the stock exhaust still there.

stvincent

iTrader: (5)

400 whp equates to how much crank hp? does anyone know?

anxiouz

iTrader: (9)

It's really a ratio thing. If a stock ISF has 416 hp crank and hits roughly 340whp? Then there's a 21% drivetrain loss. So to hit 400whp it's like 500 crank hp.

These are just estimates.

SharkTankL

iTrader: (3)

nice gains, looking into get the same setup with h/e.

KOKISF

I calculated the loss of my F to 18.5%. I calculated the crank hp on my f right now to be 485hp ,being that said the only reason im trying and shearing this info is to help all of those arround that had the same questions as I had, and the question are being awnsered as I go. I definetly think that theres no intake in the market out there beter than the oem, that the oem can be moded and perform a little better than factory is my theory , thats my next challenge testing that theory thruth or false. So ill keep you guys informed with my findings, im not trying in any means to bash anyone that thinks different here, is just my line of thinking, that ive aquired by the long years in motors and motorsports and reading of this car.

Im very sure i dont want to spray my car and that by taking that desicion I have some limitations to creating power in this platform , beacuse of all we know about tuning the f etc. Im not in the quest of making the fastest f ever i just enjoy the car look, handling and performance. Im 38 years old the ricer look and noise is not for me now, back then I loved it. i dont want my f to be loud or even to have drone . Thats why i havent even looked to exhaust , but if I have to ill look to axle backs wich i think is the weak link on the oem exhaust

Super6

iTrader: (1)

Takeda intake equates to -1 whp avg on my 3 Dyno runs compared to stock box. Looks and sounds cool though...even the Dyno guys were surprised at the result as I polled them what they thought the Dyno digits would be before the run.

CalitriSC

iTrader: (13)

How would you mod the stock intake?

Super6

iTrader: (1)

Dunno, consensus among those w/ dyno figs is that it really cant be increased significantly...perhaps the best outcome might be 5 whp. Ive got the silicone one, doubt it does anything performance wise but in theory it might make sum centz.

KOKISF

Ill modify the stock intake by using a joe z intake tube and aftermarket drop in filter like afe or ams oil, this will probably wont yield any dyno number improovement but I wanto to test that if what ive done to the intake work to my advantage or not +1 whp for me is good but having - 1 and above loosing numbers is what i dont want to find out, i know some say it sounds cool abd ive havent heard it but im pretty sure it eliminates the second chamber opening at 3600 rpm wich is for me one of the best compliment of the car . But like i stated before im old and like things now a bit different that when i was younger !!! I totally respect others opinion so to change subject ill be taking hopefully the car to the dyno this weekend ill let you guys know peace!!!

Defratos

Just out of curiosity, how long did the install take?

mcauley

iTrader: (2)

This is what I want to do headers and drop in filter only. It should give me 400 whp as we are mapped the same as the jp Isf on 99 octain fuel my base no is 380

anxiouz

iTrader: (9)

Damn, lucky you! The 91 octane we have here in CA is truly awful and holds back performance a great deal.


Don't bother with an axle-back. You'll get drone and the choke point in the exhaust is the secondary cats. If you don't want to remove those then don't bother fiddling with your exhaust at all.

I've had several discussions with other owners about the cat-back vs axle-back sound, drone, and performance and I'm not convinced there is any positive to the axle-back at all except for price IMO.

The Borla axle-back basically just adds volume and a boominess (I won't call it drone) at certain RPMs. At one point I had it but became increasingly displeased and had to take it off. The Borla cat-back however, doesn't have the same droning issues. Interestingly the mid-pipe contributes a great deal to addressing issues with drone.

mdgrwl

iTrader: (7)

Dyno a week apart isn't optimum. Same day if possible.

KOKISF

The install took me 8 hrs, 2 of wich where lost in trying to put the new dipstick!!! "because my ppe are the old style" new ones dont need to do this!!!, also the instructions on both brands suck and each approach to the install quite similar , so we used both, "download them at each site" we performed the installation at my best friends shop, he is car technician and we had acces to lift jacks transmission jacks all sords of tools etc . We both did the installation ,I am marine technician and a motorsport junky all my life had several cars and ive build them all, along w my buddy.(so we are very mechanically oriented both) I say this because if you dont have plenty of knowledge on cars and mechanicall aspects ,or tools . You need to take your car to a reputable shop to do the job right , trust me $700 to $800 dollars worth on labor is right on, for the amount of work this involves.

Being that said i totally agree w you anzioux , my next step will be removing the cats and replacing them w resonators straight through to mantain noise levels down, i really dont think the stock exhaust is any bad, or the complete exhaust system what so ever , and i say that because we think the gain on headers in our cars is beacuse we remove the primary cat on both desings .That delete is what i think it yields almost th same numbers of gain on both desings. I wanted to remove the cats on the oem manifolds to test that theory but to do it right was too much work, just to make a test!!! ( because you had to remove the manifolds , modyfy them and install them back to test if it worked) , thats why i decided to install the headers.

Dynos appart is the only thing you can do , because you need to let the ecu learn the changes you have made to your car , i just beat the hell out of the car for 100 miles and hit the dyno , got to remember this is just reference.

We run 93 octane here , your base line is 380 whp on a dyno jet w 99octane???YOU STATED YOU ARE MAPPED LIKE JP ON 99OCT , im lost here dont understand a word on what you are stating!!! feel me in bro!!!, anyways that seems quite high for a stocker , not that i dont belive you, but if thats is your case you should be at sea level or below it, on a very cold weather and running straight 99 octane , we can get here at the pump 87,91,93, 100 oct , and 112 oct sunoco but when i dynoed i was on 93 octane w a temp in the 90's+ , when i race i run 100 octane, it feels great but i didnt know it could yield a lot of hp difference on NA cars , on FI it does wonders but you need to do more than add the fuel to the car to create power , need to bump boost, advance timming, give or take more fuel etc.