Losing coolant ever so slightly.
04-17-15, 01:59 PM
#76
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cause of leak
pretty sure all u guys have the same issue,when u go for the elf recall u will find the leak its the heat distributor,it happens on all out cars,half labor cost when u fix it with elf recall the recall takes cares of most labor cost. And this is not visible by eye u have to take the intake off its in the valley not able to see with just plain eye. We should all email Lexus,so that they can make this a recall and save 800+ on parts and labor.
04-21-15, 03:36 AM
#78
Crazy thing is ever since I got the ELF campaign done my car does not leak or mysteriously lose coolant anymore. It's been two months and I've put 5000 miles and I have drove across country from San Diego, CA to Florida and have yet to top off my coolant tank.
07-02-15, 02:53 PM
#79
Thanks brother for this great post
I have the same problem they told me its the center plate leak under the manifold n intake i guess
Would this part be same as the ls460 ? Because here we do not have alot of isf parts ?
Just changed the water pump ..
Anyone has the part number for the center plate ?
I have the same problem they told me its the center plate leak under the manifold n intake i guess
Would this part be same as the ls460 ? Because here we do not have alot of isf parts ?
Just changed the water pump ..
Anyone has the part number for the center plate ?
Alright, so here's some pics. Great news, you don't need to take off the timing cover, if you remove the heat exchanger, you can pull the coolant transfer pipe out as backwards.
I learned a lesson on how to quickly remove the Intake Manifold.
-remove battery
-remove the fuse box power connector and the screws holding it in place
-Take only the upper side of the harness off.
Separate the wires from the plastic cover under the V-Bank cover (ISF plastic engine cover) Usually you'll break it, but it's better spending the 50$ getting a new one because you'll likely break the starter wire trying to get it off if you don't do it this way.
-Take the coolant hoses off the Throttle Body
-remove the PCV hoses
-remove coolant heater core hoses
-remove the clips form the coils and all the other junk on the right side of the engine
you should have enough slack with the stupid plasic cover out of the way to pull the intake manifold with the port injectors still attached, just make sure you unhook the fuel line hose from latch at the back where the other high pressure fuel lines run.
Vola, should take only about 1.5 hour or so if you've done it once or twice.
GOTCHA's
-Not recommended removing the fuel rail, or the pulsation dampers as they don't need to be removed and in my case caused a leak which made me do the job twice.
-If you remove the high pressure connectors with fittings, you WILL need to buy new orings as if you try to place the old ones in, they will leak under the high pressure
-DO NOT AT ALL COSTS pull too hard on the DI injector necks when trying to pull off the connector. It's very costly to replace them if they break. You are better off breaking the connector and replacing it for 6$
Total cost of this job for parts alone was.
600$ - 2 Injectors
100$ - 8 Injector clips that broke (broke 2 replaced all)
80$ - Plastic cover for wire harness over engine
150$ - Misc parts
250$ - Water pump repair which after replacing they didn't pressure test the system (at dealer)
150$ - investigation at another deal to see where the leak was and all they could tell me was it was under intake manifold...
Engine is prepped and ready for new RTV gasket around the heat exchanger, have new 5$ o-rings hopefully that will stop my fing leak.
All in all was a good learning experience on the F,
I learned a lesson on how to quickly remove the Intake Manifold.
-remove battery
-remove the fuse box power connector and the screws holding it in place
-Take only the upper side of the harness off.
Separate the wires from the plastic cover under the V-Bank cover (ISF plastic engine cover) Usually you'll break it, but it's better spending the 50$ getting a new one because you'll likely break the starter wire trying to get it off if you don't do it this way.
-Take the coolant hoses off the Throttle Body
-remove the PCV hoses
-remove coolant heater core hoses
-remove the clips form the coils and all the other junk on the right side of the engine
you should have enough slack with the stupid plasic cover out of the way to pull the intake manifold with the port injectors still attached, just make sure you unhook the fuel line hose from latch at the back where the other high pressure fuel lines run.
Vola, should take only about 1.5 hour or so if you've done it once or twice.
GOTCHA's
-Not recommended removing the fuel rail, or the pulsation dampers as they don't need to be removed and in my case caused a leak which made me do the job twice.
-If you remove the high pressure connectors with fittings, you WILL need to buy new orings as if you try to place the old ones in, they will leak under the high pressure
-DO NOT AT ALL COSTS pull too hard on the DI injector necks when trying to pull off the connector. It's very costly to replace them if they break. You are better off breaking the connector and replacing it for 6$
Total cost of this job for parts alone was.
600$ - 2 Injectors
100$ - 8 Injector clips that broke (broke 2 replaced all)
80$ - Plastic cover for wire harness over engine
150$ - Misc parts
250$ - Water pump repair which after replacing they didn't pressure test the system (at dealer)
150$ - investigation at another deal to see where the leak was and all they could tell me was it was under intake manifold...
Engine is prepped and ready for new RTV gasket around the heat exchanger, have new 5$ o-rings hopefully that will stop my fing leak.
All in all was a good learning experience on the F,
07-02-15, 03:54 PM
#81
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Wow. It's not that hard. Too bad you're not in Georgia. We'd get it done for less than $100 in parts and a couple hours in the afternoon.
07-02-15, 04:53 PM
#82
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
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lovely… why are we liable for replacing faulty toyota parts. my car is only 4 years old I have owned many cars and none have had such issues with the cooling system or issues in general for that matter. I already took my car in for a cracked radiator less than a year ago and now this?… this could be the last straw with this car for me I don't want to put anymore money into it I plan on selling within a year
07-03-15, 05:15 AM
#83
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
07-03-15, 06:52 AM
#85
Only if I lived closer to GA I would get some much needed wrench help . Seen the new water pump revision for 153 . Only if in the future wife wants to check out Georgia to see if I can transfer there .
07-03-15, 08:19 AM
#86
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ga
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+1 Always happy to help out if anyone needs it too. Check with some of the indy shops around. I have to believe that you could do much better than 1100.
07-03-15, 08:29 AM
#87
All is good now Lexus called me and I'll just have to pay 100 bucks out of pocket for the replacement water pump and labor. As much as some recent posts about quality and issues I'm glad I'm a Lexus owner as some other cars I've had any issues out of warranty your out of luck .
07-06-15, 11:54 PM
#88
Lexus Fanatic
I will be showing this thread to the shop foreman when I service next. Considering I have the new RR LCA bushing coming and oil change due in 1000 miles I might just service the car early. Glad I found this.
07-07-15, 02:22 AM
#89
I went in for the Fuel recall and the dealer said everything looked good. So does that mean I dont/won't have the coolant lost issues? My car just hit 127k miles. Doing the fuel recall the tech would have to see a coolant puddle or residue and mention it Right?
07-07-15, 05:41 PM
#90
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
There's no way you could to the recall and not notice if there was a problem.