CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

I have been trying to solve this problem for several weeks now. I have this clicking/clunk noise coming from the passenger rear side of the car. At first, I had thought something had come lose but I have jacked up the car and tightened everything to spec. Also while the car was jacked up I tried to shake and move the exhaust as much as possible but I could not make it come in contact with anything.

The sound is weird. Sometimes it sounds like what an exhaust hitting something has sounded like on past cars. Other times it sounds like metal is almost binding like a spring or something under pressure. At first it was just once and a while and now it is all the time. The worst part is I don't really have another car up and running right now so that I can stop putting miles on it.

Here is one video while I was driving with the camera being held out the window and then a second with my girlfriend holding the camera on the side of the road while I went forward and backward.

https://youtube.com/shorts/l5CLQa7Z8AQ

https://youtube.com/shorts/wRUYrBRgtqY

Appreciate and advice anyone might have as to what that sound might be.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Something is moving at a pivot point or a joint is void of lube. Any aftermarket parts on this like a heim-joint mounted coil-over, tie rod or control arm?

Look for red rust at all pivot points. As an option you can undo one end of the sway and eliminate those from the equation.

Maybe get it up on stands and jack up each control are and see where it makes noise. Oftentimes putting your hand on the metal and you'll feel the vibration.

GL

CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

So last year I had a heim-joint actually snap on me cause it seized on the lower control arm. The bolt came out easy.



We had to actually cut the bolt as it was also seized on the other side. So those are new and I hope that is not the issue. Now when we cut the bolt the subframe mount got scraped a little bit but I can't imagine that is the noise I am hearing.





The end links could be the issue. Although they are tight the boot on this one seems to be torn as the grease is out of it. There is rust on everything though as the car lived in Pittsburgh for 6 years.



I have thought of throwing a set of end links at it but also just don't really want to start throwing parts at it just to see if it goes away.

I have had the car on jack stands and then jacked up each rear control arm but it apparently isn't enough to cause it to make the noise that way. I didn't try to hold each piece though to see if I could feel it. That is a good idea.

I think the sound is too frequent to be a blown damper in my BC coilovers.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Honda the motorcycle guys make great chain lube that sprays from a can and pretty water resistant. It works so well on the bike chain, I use it a lot of other applications. Exterior door hinges, the lock and latch for trailer, hinges on the Tundra bed cover. The stuff does well in the weather.

I'd buy a can of it or something similar and spray all them exposed joints and see what happens. Spray from both sides as its better than rust. If the shock ends are heim joints jack it up to unload some pressure and spray them too.

If a current joint has that red rust pouring out, it is suspect.

Edit in that last picture w the saw mark, it looks like the shaft spun in subframe creating a little wear mark. That's not helping things.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Just move. Living in the rust belt is a death sentence for everything iron/steel. I will never move back. I hate dealing with rusted fasteners.

All you guys living in the rust belt would cry if I showed you the pictures of my 30 year old Supra underneath. Very minor surface corrosion at best. Mostly NO corrosion.

CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

Thankfully I don't live on the rust belt. I am in NC. I had sold the car to a buddy for 6 years and just bought it back last year. I have to say other than for very few lower items like exhaust and lowest suspension arms there is no body rust.

I do need to pull those rear control arms and have them blasted and recoated.

Maybe I am better off just replacing all the rear suspension pieces.

Bechtold

Honestly I was surprise on the amount of rust I saw. Given it appears you are in North Carolina I did wonder how it got that way. Ocean water perhaps?

CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

They only use salt in Pittsburgh. They put so much of it down up there that even if it just rains in the winter you get it all over the bottom of the car. I used to take the car with snow tires on it to WV skiing when I had it the first time around but I always came home and gave the undercarriage a cleaning the next week to prevent that stuff. I may end up having to have the exhaust copied since parts of it are so bad and ISSForged is no longer in business to get another one.

CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

Still working on solving this problem. I am wondering if this could be my issue while researching on here about various things.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...le-area-4.html

Otherwise, I am about to slowly start throwing parts at it starting with new end links since that is the think I can think that is most likely to be affected to cause such a continuous noise since changes angle from either side of the suspension moving.

Rickna

iTrader: (3)

If you're lowered (looks like you are) you might consider adjustable end links for proper preload on the sway bar. Adjustable links are also beefier.

CCColtsicehockey

iTrader: (3)

Wanted to follow up in here as I am pretty sure that I have resolved this finally. Indirectly it seems to be the Heim joint that was installed on my trip when the old ones snapped and we had to cut one of the factor bolts to get it off.

New Heim that was installed during my trip last year




Took a rough measurement to get it close to the same and not affect my alignment that much. Although I will still get one in the coming weeks.


New factory bolt and fresh heim joint and standoffs from Figs




It was at the point of disassembly that I noticed the real issue. The standoffs that had been used didn't fit the bolt used perfectly. It was good enough to have gotten me through my trip but I likely should have replace this right away when I got back home close to a rear ago. The standoffs also seems to be of a fairly soft metal and had started to deform. The shop did say they rebuilt their dirt track setups fairly frequently so likely they didn't care about it.

Notice the difference in thickness of the top of the OEM bolt vs the one that had been on the car. Not even close. Everything fits together perfectly now.


All back together.


After a 20min drive I am pretty sure the noise is gone. I won't know for sure without a little more driving this week but hopefully that is the end of this problem.

Here is a picture of the old hardware. I will likely still keep this and toss it in the trunk spare tire compartment in the event of an issue with one on the car as any spare would be better than none.


I will come back and update again if this turns out not to be the fix but put the car through several really hard corners this weekend and couldn't cause anything so hopefully it is off my list of repairs.