IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

2011 Mark Levinson stereo upgrade / build

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Old 04-17-13, 08:14 AM
  #46  
Beachtyme
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Originally Posted by VtotheJ
Ever since I modded my exhaust, I didn't bother with a sound system.....often times I lower my music just to hear my exhaust...every time I drive I'm at a crossroads like "not sure if listen to exhaust or blast music". For me the ML is loud enough to drown out exhaust noise.
I have a Tanabe on my 02 IS300 that freaking screams when I WOT. The system in that car is miles above the ML system in the F, but it's aftermarket 100%

I'm a quality + quantity guy when it comes to car audio. I like it sound good, but I want it to bump n thump when the dial gets turned to the far end.
Old 04-18-13, 09:34 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by VtotheJ
Ever since I modded my exhaust, I didn't bother with a sound system.....often times I lower my music just to hear my exhaust...every time I drive I'm at a crossroads like "not sure if listen to exhaust or blast music". For me the ML is loud enough to drown out exhaust noise.
if your exhaust is too raspy you can't hear the bass
Old 04-22-13, 12:51 AM
  #48  
jadeboy
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Originally Posted by jadeboy
I finally installed the LC2i, wicked CAS seal enclosure, JL 600 XD/1 and 10W7AE.

I tapped the subwoofer and front mid woofer.

Some of the Bass are perfect, but I noticed on the certain frequencies the bass is delay by about 0.2 second. Any clue?
Well, I got a suggestion from another forum to take ML sub out, it's most likely causing the frequency cancellation. Is this true?

I don't want to take out the ML Sub, is there any way to easily disconnect it without removing the rear seat?

Last edited by jadeboy; 04-22-13 at 12:56 AM.
Old 05-12-13, 02:35 AM
  #49  
kauaian
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Originally Posted by jadeboy
Well, I got a suggestion from another forum to take ML sub out, it's most likely causing the frequency cancellation. Is this true?

I don't want to take out the ML Sub, is there any way to easily disconnect it without removing the rear seat?
I finally had some time to install the LC2i and it works flawlessly!

To answer your question, yes you disconnect the sub without pulling the back seat. Just pull the subwoofer grill cover off. then pull the remaining portion of the rear deck up and enough to expose the subwoofer. To the left you will see the a white clip, unplug it and BOOM it's disconnected! I used that clip for my sub signal as there is a little hole to pull it back into the trunk space.

If you got any questions just shoot me a PM. It's a very simple install.
Old 03-08-17, 07:30 PM
  #50  
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Bought a sub internally amplified which also includes an internal converter.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p300-12

General consensus across the board seems like there is an advantage to tapping into both the front door speakers and the subwoofer. Since there's only two areas to tap into on this setup, anybody see an issue with tapping into one of the front door speakers and the subwoofer directly into the amp in hopes of getting the fuller range?

Otherwise sounds like a LOC like the Scoshe 4 channel will be necessary and then just run some RCA's to the amp.
Old 03-09-17, 05:27 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by FFM
Bought a sub internally amplified which also includes an internal converter.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p300-12

General consensus across the board seems like there is an advantage to tapping into both the front door speakers and the subwoofer. Since there's only two areas to tap into on this setup, anybody see an issue with tapping into one of the front door speakers and the subwoofer directly into the amp in hopes of getting the fuller range?

Otherwise sounds like a LOC like the Scoshe 4 channel will be necessary and then just run some RCA's to the amp.
The issue with doing that is the signal levels are not the same for the door speakers and the subwoofer. From my experience, the output to the sub is stronger than the bass output of the front speakers. Without having a way to level match them, it will be difficult to set the sub up to sound balanced across the frequency range it can play. I use an audiocontrol LC7i to adjust for this, but none of the options are as good as a dedicated pre-out.
Old 03-09-17, 07:51 AM
  #52  
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Ahh gotcha, that makes sense. I will just tap into the sub signal then and see how it sounds. If I feel it's lacking, I will then get an adjustable external LOC and tap into the front woofers as well.

Thanks for clarifying that, I had missed that part in all my reading last night.
Old 03-08-18, 09:34 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by PhiDeltBee
Well, I'll eat my words about the LC6i. I got it sounding crystal clear. No hiss anywhere now. It just needs to be rubbed the right way which can be a bit frustrating. The level-matching has to be spot on between it and the amp. I also had the issue of the only getting high frequencies to the sub. The LC6i has an automode that will take the channel 2 frequencies and put them to the channel 3 frequencies if theres no signal in channel 3. Turns out the sub signal from the ML amp was not strong enought for the LC6i to detect, therefore it was sending in the channel 2 signals. I emailed AudioControl about this issue and here's what they told me to do: see photo.



Haven't done this yet, but right now, just using the scosche LOC it's sounds perfect, however the LC6i will allow some more power to the sub, which I think it lacks just a bit right now. So, in conclusion, the LC6i can be outstanding....if you know what the heck you're doing. I didn't.
Greetings. Did you ever get the LC6i setup to run everything or are you still using the Scoshe? I've got mine setup with a LC8i feeding a JL Audio 900/5 amp, aftermarket mids/highs and a JL 10" Sub. I'm curious how you have your jumpers/summing setup.
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