DIY: IS-F front brake rotors
#16
I replaced my brake pads about 6 months ago because they were literally worn down to nothing, but I didn't replace the rotors (though I probably should have). Well now the rotors are so worn that I have lost a lot of braking power, and when I took off the pads and rotors to replace them I noticed that the rotors have huge recessed lips on both the inner and outer edges. And as such, they have caused the pads to have lips on the edges of the pads which stick out further than the rest of the pad. Will this hurt the new rotors if I install these pads with the new rotors? Or will the pads just wear down to flat after some heavy braking?
A prompt answer would be greatly appreciated since my car is completely taken apart right now!
Thanks!
P.S. I am using the Raybestos rotors which I picked up for just $348 for the set of all 4. I thought that was a hell of a deal since the dealer charges $1800 to install a set of OEM rotors, and these should be just as good!
A prompt answer would be greatly appreciated since my car is completely taken apart right now!
Thanks!
P.S. I am using the Raybestos rotors which I picked up for just $348 for the set of all 4. I thought that was a hell of a deal since the dealer charges $1800 to install a set of OEM rotors, and these should be just as good!
#17
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
The pads will wear down and they'll work just fine.
#21
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
The rotors don't get to 28mm then suddenly disintegrate even at the track. I've seen guys race with badly cracked rotors. I have tracked cracked rotors myself. "Better safe than sorry" does not apply here.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MO
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Here's a suggestion... I found the best pricing on OEM brake pads by purchasing the front from Sewell Parts, and the rears directly from Carson. Both with Lexus forum discounts.
PS- James, thanks for the help yesterday again.
PS- James, thanks for the help yesterday again.
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thank you to caymandive for this DIY thread. It was very helpful for me.
I changed the OE Brembo pads and rotors. I have been on the Hawk HPS pads and Centric Rotors I got from tirerack.com for a few hundred miles and a day at Texas Motorsport Ranch ( http://www.motorsportranch.com/1.7-road-course.cfm ). I ran the 1.7 mile clockwise and the brakes were definitely over powering the all season tires I ran on. So far this combo has been excellent. I have noticed very little brake squeal, better/smoother initial bite, and no fade yet.
I haven't have this car long but I'm already in love. Easier then I expected to work on and with 60k on the clock, perfect reliability.
I changed the OE Brembo pads and rotors. I have been on the Hawk HPS pads and Centric Rotors I got from tirerack.com for a few hundred miles and a day at Texas Motorsport Ranch ( http://www.motorsportranch.com/1.7-road-course.cfm ). I ran the 1.7 mile clockwise and the brakes were definitely over powering the all season tires I ran on. So far this combo has been excellent. I have noticed very little brake squeal, better/smoother initial bite, and no fade yet.
I haven't have this car long but I'm already in love. Easier then I expected to work on and with 60k on the clock, perfect reliability.
#25
If you guys don't own a torque wrench, I did noticed the two17 mm bolts that hold the calipers in place are marked with a yellow marker. Just keep track of which bolt went to which hole and torque them until the yellow marks match up again.
Also, the rear is identical except the bolts holding the calipers are smaller. One IMPORTANT difference is that the small rubber cover needs to be removed and you might have to loosen a small dial to adjust the emergency drum brakes so they're not stuck on the inside edge of the rotors or else you risk breaking the drum brake spring retainer like I did. hahaha It was a REAL pain to put back on.
Also, the rear is identical except the bolts holding the calipers are smaller. One IMPORTANT difference is that the small rubber cover needs to be removed and you might have to loosen a small dial to adjust the emergency drum brakes so they're not stuck on the inside edge of the rotors or else you risk breaking the drum brake spring retainer like I did. hahaha It was a REAL pain to put back on.
#28
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
The micrometer is a 1" - 2" deep throat (or frame) micrometer. Looks like a Mitutoyo combimike to me. The late model version of this is here:
http://store.greatgages.com/servlet/...-Throat/Detail
Measuring the holes would be pointless. Measure the flat surfaces.
http://store.greatgages.com/servlet/...-Throat/Detail
Measuring the holes would be pointless. Measure the flat surfaces.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 07-08-13 at 12:39 AM.