11.300 @ 120mph
10-06-10, 05:23 PM
#31
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Slay, how are you able to not granade the motor with stock plugs (are they stock or a couple of heat ranges colder?), and not able to tune the engine for AFR, fuel trims, timing, etc..., especially considering the realively high compression of our engines? Do you run race gas? I come from the LSX world, and adding a 125 shot of nitrous without tuning, plugs, and adequate fuel supply, equates to a time bomb and a recipe for disaster. I must say that you have some big B***S to do what you are doing, LOL.
10-06-10, 05:29 PM
#32
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Thanks Joe!
They are stock plugs. They actually arnt that bad for N20. I check the plugs regularly and inspect them to see how the N20 is effecting the system. You can learn how to read the plugs here
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...Readplugs.html
You honestly dont need to change the engine AFR with the N2O System. The stock Ecu goes a good job with keeping the AFR consistent. Knowing this, all you need to do is tune the N20/Fuel ratio. Also, the first member to choose the N20 route confirms that the ECM somehow reads the N20 and pulls timing(crazy if true). At the end of the day im well within the limits of what the stock motor/fuel system can handle. I dont think im going to go over a 175shot with the car though. Im either going to build it and go turbo by my birthday next year, or keep the 125shot and get a 996 GT2 or GTR.
Coming from the LSX world, you would know how well the LS7 does with N20. A buddy of mine has had a 200shot for over 2 years now on his. When done correctly within limitations, N20 is the *****. Just have to have restraint
P.S. I always had a backup plan. If the motor goes wont cost too much to build it.
They are stock plugs. They actually arnt that bad for N20. I check the plugs regularly and inspect them to see how the N20 is effecting the system. You can learn how to read the plugs here
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...Readplugs.html
You honestly dont need to change the engine AFR with the N2O System. The stock Ecu goes a good job with keeping the AFR consistent. Knowing this, all you need to do is tune the N20/Fuel ratio. Also, the first member to choose the N20 route confirms that the ECM somehow reads the N20 and pulls timing(crazy if true). At the end of the day im well within the limits of what the stock motor/fuel system can handle. I dont think im going to go over a 175shot with the car though. Im either going to build it and go turbo by my birthday next year, or keep the 125shot and get a 996 GT2 or GTR.
Coming from the LSX world, you would know how well the LS7 does with N20. A buddy of mine has had a 200shot for over 2 years now on his. When done correctly within limitations, N20 is the *****. Just have to have restraint
P.S. I always had a backup plan. If the motor goes wont cost too much to build it.
10-06-10, 05:32 PM
#33
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There aren't any colder plugs available unless you want to put in something with a completely different style than the OEM iridiums. Toyota engine management is surprisingly flexible. It's just not flexible enough for major modification without a piggyback. There are no tuning options for Toyota products short of a full aftermarket ECM, and there is no aftermarket ECM capable of driving all the functions Toyota designed into this system. So, it's not exactly *****. It's the only option.
Last edited by ISFC6; 10-06-10 at 05:36 PM.
10-06-10, 06:08 PM
#34
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Would you care to share your plans for an inexpensive rebuild? I know that the ECU may regulate for some parameters, and may pull some timing to save itself from granading, but to MY eyes, that is still not ideal, without being able to dial in the tune properly (fuel trims, etc...), but again, like I said, you have some B***S to do so, especially if you up the shot to 175. Have you been able to measure your injector duty cycle and fuel pressure, while using N20? I have never been a fan of N20, but to each his own. I would not personally add forced induction to an LS7, due to weaker pistons and thinner cylinder walls, although some may feel that it is safe. I would definitely run METH injection on an LS7, if going FI. In MY opinion, that motor is best suited for NA applications. I would add a full exhaust, CAI, tune, plugs, FAST 102, port the TB, add a mild cam, and call it a day. With an LS3, that would be a different story. Case in point, I had a supercharger on my 08 LS3 Corvette, and my 07 LS2 was all NA.
IMO there is no way to properly tune the IS F without going full standalone. But IMO, going full standalone is just over the top. Havnt been able to check Injector duty but the car has made 600whp without maxing the injectors out. It was done on a turbo car in texas. Fuel pressure was tested by the shop that did my install and it is well within the safe parameters. When i find out the exact psi ill let you know.
Thing with my car making 500whp is that its well within the power range. Other people have been making much more power than i am for a long time.
10-06-10, 06:28 PM
#35
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What are the stock plugs in our cars? How do they compare to the NGK TR7IX iridiums and possibly the Denso IT 22 or 24? The aformentioned plugs are ideal for FI, and sould would be the NGK TR6's, but they are copper and not iridium. I ran the TR7 IX on my supercharged LS3, and the Denso IT 22 on my 04 Cobra.
FK - D14mm L26.5mm 16mm hex - High Ignitability Plug (0.55mm Ir center electrode, Pt ground electrode)
20 = NGK heat range 6 (there are no options for cooler plugs in this configuration)
H - Reach 19.0mm (Electrode position: 8.5mm)
B - Triple ground electrodes
R - With Resistor
11 - 1.1mm factory gap
IKH16 through IKH27 might work, but they don't have the triple electrodes and it isn't clear if the tip is in the same position as the OEM plug. They are the only Denso iridium plugs with the correct diameter, length, and reach.
VKH01-XX racing plugs might also work, but with a standard 0.7mm gap in a direct injection engine using stratified charge, they may have their own issues.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 10-06-10 at 06:43 PM.
10-06-10, 06:33 PM
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I consider it relatively inexpensive to have a built motor. It would cost around 4-7k to have new rods,pistons, retainers etc.
IMO there is no way to properly tune the IS F without going full standalone. But IMO, going full standalone is just over the top. Havnt been able to check Injector duty but the car has made 600whp without maxing the injectors out. It was done on a turbo car in texas. Fuel pressure was tested by the shop that did my install and it is well within the safe parameters. When i find out the exact psi ill let you know.
Thing with my car making 500whp is that its well within the power range. Other people have been making much more power than i am for a long time.
IMO there is no way to properly tune the IS F without going full standalone. But IMO, going full standalone is just over the top. Havnt been able to check Injector duty but the car has made 600whp without maxing the injectors out. It was done on a turbo car in texas. Fuel pressure was tested by the shop that did my install and it is well within the safe parameters. When i find out the exact psi ill let you know.
Thing with my car making 500whp is that its well within the power range. Other people have been making much more power than i am for a long time.
10-07-10, 12:16 AM
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10-11-10, 11:46 AM
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10-11-10, 06:24 PM
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one post above yours.
Originally Posted by MRxSLAYx
Joe Z Intake
Custom Exhaust
N20
Nitto NT05R on Enkei RPF1s
10-11-10, 06:50 PM
#45
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omg fml. This thread just ruined my future plans of keeping my is350 for a few more years while I square away some debt and getting into a C6 Z06. Now you got me thinking of just grabbing an 08 ISF in 2 years for like 30k from manheim and building it. I just wish there was a reliable piggy back that didn't trip a code and could keep a map consistent without the stock ecu messing with it. Then I WISH I could just put a supercharger on the car and get it to around 11.5 and/or 125 trap on 93 octane and drag radials. Then it would be the perfect car.