Reconsidering the Factory Alignment
#1
Tech Info Resource
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iTrader: (2)
Reconsidering the Factory Alignment
I didn't realize this until I put my street pads back in the car Wednesday. I knew my right front tire was a bit thinner than the left front, but I wasn't expecting this:
I'm getting a custom alignment on Monday at a shop recommended by the local Miata racers. While I will admit I like the turn in with the current settings, I can't afford to shred front tires every two track weekends.
I'm getting a custom alignment on Monday at a shop recommended by the local Miata racers. While I will admit I like the turn in with the current settings, I can't afford to shred front tires every two track weekends.
#3
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iTrader: (2)
My first set went 22k. I put this tire on used, and it died in 9k. Not a bad deal, but not exactly the best possible option considering the rears went 31k with three track weekends and still had (just barely) legal tread on them.
I think if I dial back the toe a bit, I'll get at least 30k out of the fronts.
I think if I dial back the toe a bit, I'll get at least 30k out of the fronts.
#5
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I've got a pair of Bridgestone rears with a little over 50% tread left on them, so I put on new Bridgestone fronts (IS-F specific) and the used rears. When this set wears out, I'll get a set of IS-F specific PS2s. Probably next spring if I keep up the track weekends.
#6
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
Yeah noticed this as well on my bridgies. I just swapped out the rears here at 28K with a set of used PS2's for $50 mounted. I have too many wheels to spend money on tires for all of them haha. I think also there may be slightly more bump steer in the right side just because of the slotted steering rack bushing perhaps...and the fact that the steering knuckle is tie rod forward instead of behind.
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-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
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2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#8
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Good thing you noticed this wear now and not later with a blow out! I notice the same thing on my tires. Definitly worth searching around for used but almost new tires with the stock alignment settings. I found my ps2's by searching craigslist and eBay and they are working out great at half the price of new.
#9
Intermediate
Lance,
I'll be interested in your custom alignment settings if it's anything close to being as successful as the "Lance" alignment for the JZA80. I just took delivery of my 2010 F, but my wife's front tires on her IS 350 looked exactly like your tires, only worse. She got 28K miles out of them but, given how badly they were worn, I would say they were 23K-25K tires at the max with the factory alignment settings.
I'll be interested in your feedback as soon as you have this done. TIA,
I'll be interested in your custom alignment settings if it's anything close to being as successful as the "Lance" alignment for the JZA80. I just took delivery of my 2010 F, but my wife's front tires on her IS 350 looked exactly like your tires, only worse. She got 28K miles out of them but, given how badly they were worn, I would say they were 23K-25K tires at the max with the factory alignment settings.
I'll be interested in your feedback as soon as you have this done. TIA,
#11
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#12
Intermediate
I run your settings on both of my Supras. Have been for years. Hoping your new IS-F settings are just as successful.
Maybe you can PM me your new JZA80 settings and compare them to your old settings when you get some time. TIA,
#13
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So here's the spec sheet. It had 1/8" toe out from the factory, which is great for performance and terrible for tire wear. I had Jeff at Gran Turismo cut it back to 1/16" or from a little over 3mm to about 1.5mm. I'm going to see how this wears for street driving. Jeff also put some match marks on the toe links so I can toe it back out for track days.
FYI - one full turn equates to 3mm toe change on the side you adjust. I'll be resetting my toe to the factory spec on track days by lengthening the link 1/2 turn.
My cross camber is excellent, and with the car static, both sides read -1.0 degrees. I'd rather have -2.0, but at least they're the same. Rear cross camber isn't quite as good with -1.0 on one side and -0.7 on the other. Oddly enough, Jeff told me the right rear was actually toed out, so they corrected the rear toe, and reset the front toe to arrive at the numbers on the attached pdf.
I'm going to see how this wears, but I suspect it will be dramatically better. In theory, dynamic toe should be inward, so with a very slight outward toe, it might actually go to zero while cruising the freeway. In any case, I'll be monitoring it and reporting back what I find. I'm making an 1800 mile trip over the weekend, so I'll have some initial findings pretty quickly.
FYI - one full turn equates to 3mm toe change on the side you adjust. I'll be resetting my toe to the factory spec on track days by lengthening the link 1/2 turn.
My cross camber is excellent, and with the car static, both sides read -1.0 degrees. I'd rather have -2.0, but at least they're the same. Rear cross camber isn't quite as good with -1.0 on one side and -0.7 on the other. Oddly enough, Jeff told me the right rear was actually toed out, so they corrected the rear toe, and reset the front toe to arrive at the numbers on the attached pdf.
I'm going to see how this wears, but I suspect it will be dramatically better. In theory, dynamic toe should be inward, so with a very slight outward toe, it might actually go to zero while cruising the freeway. In any case, I'll be monitoring it and reporting back what I find. I'm making an 1800 mile trip over the weekend, so I'll have some initial findings pretty quickly.