cleethree

Dropped of my car at the dealer today with 1000ml of motul RBF600 brake fluid for a flush and they said it wasnt enough fluid and would be $270. This was after they said it would be only half hour labor, but they were planning to replace only what's in the reservoir.

From searching, I read that 2 bottles is more than enough to flush. They said they would need 4, can someone confirm?

Now I'm in search of a reputable shop to do some work on the F. Some basic maintenance as well as some aftermarket parts in the future. Hoping you all can help.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

When I flushed out my OEM fluid & replaced it with Motul Dot 5.1, I only used 2 500ml bottles. Even if your single 1000ml bottle isn't quite enough to flush the entire system, 2 should be more than enough. Admittedly, I don't know the total capacity of the system (it might be in the owner's manual). However, I think 4 1000ml bottles would be way too much.

-Mike

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

When I bled mine, I used 2 bottles (1,000 ml each) of PM PGFour G-Four 335 fluid. When finished I had used all of the first and more than half of the second bottle. True I did a second pump after the first clear pump, but I wanted to make sure all the old fluid was purged. I also used Earl's Solo-Bleed Make the job so much easier.

$270. for labor is insane

Lou

kolyan

I paid about $120 with fluid at Lexus dealer

Vervish

iTrader: (4)

I go to AZP installs in Kennilworth, NJ - they are well respected in the Suby community . I have used them for more than 10 years (when I had my Subaru), great guys with extensive automotive and track knowledge.

They have done the following on my F:

- regular maintenance (oil change and brake fluid flush, brake pads)
- Alignments
- exhaust install
- suspension install
- LCA bushings install

Piston1047

I was able to flush with two bottles of ATE fluid. Two is plenty to replace the fluid in the system. Are you going to the track soon? I wouldn't put in RBF600 unless you are planning on going to the track soon and you like to flush your system regularly throughout the year. If you want to use a year around/longer life Motul brand use the DOT 5.1 like mikersoft or a ATE type 200 like myself. If you don't plan to track your car, save some money and buy a street use DOT 4. Just some helpful advice.

cleethree

thanks. I will check them out.

cleethree

I hopefully do a few track days and more as time allows, but most of my driving is on the street. Car is not a daily driver fwiw. I assume you recommend against the rbf600 because it accumulates moisture?

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

Based on this reply, I'd definitely recommend the DOT 5.1 over the RBF600. It'll easily handle the occasional track day, (I did 9 events last year using it). Plus, it's more resistant to moisture accumulation, so you won't having to worry about bleeding/flushing as often.

-Mike

Piston1047

Yes, you are correct. The RBF600 is good fluid but will require more maintenance due to it's high hygroscopic (water absorbing) qualities. It is more for the person who flushes fluid constantly on a race car/track toy and doesn't let the fluid sit months between flushes. It just seem to be an expensive and more time consuming route to go for a couple of possible track days a year. You would be much better off with a ATE type200 or Motul 5.1. Honestly for a few track days in novice or intermediate groups you would be fine with some new DOT 4 of most basic brands.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There is some wisdom in not using a super high boiling point fluid if you are new to track driving. It's better to boil the fluid than to cook your pads. You can pump the brakes quickly and get some stop with boiling fluid. If you overheat the pads, you're without brakes entirely. This is also the reason I recommend turning the stability control (VSC) off. VSC will help you overuse your brakes and make them go away more quickly at the track if you are overdriving the car. AMHIK.

Also, FWIW, highly hygroscopic brake fluid is only bad from the perspective your fluid will be at the wet boiling point faster than a fluid with less affinity for water. The fluid's ability to pull water out will also make your brake system less susceptible to internal corrosion over time. This is why the pure silicone fluids - DOT 5.0 - are not recommended for street vehicles. It is not hygroscopic at all, and can result in catastrophic failure from internal corrosion if water gets into the brake system. It's also more compressible than conventional fluids.

I've been running Brembo LCF in my IS F for years now, and I don't mind the maintenance knowing there will be almost zero chance of internal corrosion. I also like the very stiff brake feel. Brembo does not recommend LCF for street use at all.

Piston1047

Yes, this is why I always tend to recommend a "less" hygroscpic fluid to use for occasional track use, why spend the money flushing fluid all the time or risking a lower wet boiling point when other fluids of near equal performance provide a better alternative to a "street" vehicle.
Interesting choice on the LCF and since we all know your always on top of maintenance, I don't see any problem there. In fact, I might have to try it on my 240sx based on your recommendation and what I have read about it.
At times I just think people go the Motul race fluid route because it sounds like something you put in a high performance car but sometimes don't realize the drawbacks and care required versus the benefit on a car that is not frequently tracked/bled. I like ATE 200 because it has been reliable for my applications and it is probably the only race fluid you could technically not flush for 3 years. The downside to ATE seems to be the dry boiling point but as you said, this could prevent a cooked pads incident. Also I agree in your assessment that a race brake fluid is not always necessary for a track day pending driver experience/knowledge.

cleethree

Thanks guys. Looks like I'll have to return the RBF600.