flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Before you do any resurfacing, you need to measure the rotor's thickness. If it's too worn, and my guess it is, you need new rotors. Resurfacing rotors is rarely necessary unless they are grooved or have developed high spots. Sounds like you may have developed a high spot or two. In any case measure rotor thickness before doing any cutting. Rotor's are not really an expensive item, and in almost all cases where there is some doubt, replace.

Lou

bbong

Lou, was going to suggest the same thing, I never bothered with resurfacing my rotors either, they're so cheap that I usually get a new set and never let existing one develop any unevenness.

I posted a link to rotors I always get, just get them and don't bother with resurfacing, as it'll cost 1/2 of new rotors and they may already be worn out to the point that cracks around the cross-drills may be connecting or edging the rotors.

Piston1047

For what it is worth, I have run these rotors at the track (road Atlanta) and they hold up better than OEM cross drilled, so, there's that. Also, I wouldn't put to much weight on branding when it comes to rotors, as long as they use a GS3000 or higher casting grade. A lot of manufacturers just buy centric or raybestos anyways and drill or slot them to their spec. Iv'e driven multiple types of vehicles in many scenarios and rotors just aren't that complicated for a HPDE or amature racer. It's casting a solid piece of metal not "rocket science". I look at the structure and material as more important and I have deemed a slotted rotor (that doesn't got to the rotors edge) of brand X versus the OEM drilled, is superior when materials are equal. I'll keep everyone posted on how well these hold up on continued track use.

I would also recommend having a dedicated set of rotors/pads for track and one for street. It's more initial cost but in the long run it saves money, since you don't wear out the expensive track set as fast and your milder pad street setup also lasts longer.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

What pads were in the car before? If you're getting juddering when applying the brakes you likely have small pad deposits on the rotor face and the problem will persist with new pads unless they are an aggressive track pad which is abrasive enough to wipe away the deposits at cold temps (the stoptech streets are not). As others are recommending- new rotors can be had for cheap and more often than not resurfacing just isn't really worth it if you're paying more than ~$20/rotor for resurfacing. If you were planning on taking it to a dealership to have them resurfaced I can pretty much guarantee you'll be walking out of there with a bill that would have covered, or at lest been within spitting distance of some new cheap rotors.

-Matt M.

ISF350

Anyone know any shop can do resurface for the OEM rotors around LA area?