Project Mu HC800 pads too big to fit?
12-06-16, 09:50 AM
#16
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Which is just another reason I like Earl's Solobleeders. Crack the valve and the fluid only goes out, no air gets back in.
12-06-16, 02:07 PM
#17
12-06-16, 02:11 PM
#18
^^^^Yep, based on Lance's recommendation from almost 8 years ago:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-for-is-f.html
I use 'em and luv 'em.
Lou
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-for-is-f.html
I use 'em and luv 'em.
Lou
12-07-16, 11:37 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I had a similar issue when installing these pads with my RR Racing rotors. I was able to get one side in (inside pad), but couldn't squeeze in the outside pad with the shim. I ended up leaving the shim out on the outside, and the pads barely fit. A month or two later, I was able to re-install the shim on the outside pads.
-Mike
-Mike
I did this the first time around, and managed to squeeze them in.....BUT after driving for a few miles I realised that the pads were in constant contact with the rotors and eventually even started to slightly bake.
Had to stop the car and remove them before things got worse.
I figured the shims not being installed lead to excessive heat transfering to the pads and rotors.
Can anyone think of another reason why the pads start to bake when I squeezed them into the rotors without the shims?
12-07-16, 11:44 PM
#20
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iTrader: (2)
I did this the first time around, and managed to squeeze them in.....BUT after driving for a few miles I realised that the pads were in constant contact with the rotors and eventually even started to slightly bake.
Had to stop the car and remove them before things got worse.
I figured the shims not being installed lead to excessive heat transfering to the pads and rotors.
Can anyone think of another reason why the pads start to bake when I squeezed them into the rotors without the shims?
Had to stop the car and remove them before things got worse.
I figured the shims not being installed lead to excessive heat transfering to the pads and rotors.
Can anyone think of another reason why the pads start to bake when I squeezed them into the rotors without the shims?
12-08-16, 02:00 AM
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
^ The Odd thing is I've had the figs 2-piece rotors installed with Racing Brake XT910 pads from January, so nearly 11 months and the rotors haven't gone down in thickness?
I would have assumed enough space would have been created by now, and I drive the car very aggressively at high speeds and brake very aggressively.
Plus I never had this issue when I installed the rotors new on new RB XT910 pads, so could the Project Mu pads really be that much thicker?
I would have assumed enough space would have been created by now, and I drive the car very aggressively at high speeds and brake very aggressively.
Plus I never had this issue when I installed the rotors new on new RB XT910 pads, so could the Project Mu pads really be that much thicker?
Last edited by Defratos; 12-08-16 at 02:06 AM.
12-09-16, 01:42 AM
#22
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So this isn't necessarily a Project mu pads issue, but it's related, so bear with me.
Recently I balked at the proposed cost (here in the UK) for a main dealer to replace my front discs and pads, so I purchased Brembo discs and pads and fitted them myself. Other than the simplicity of fitting them compared to my previous B8 Audi S4 I'm now wondering whether the pads are dragging. It may be a combination of switching to winter tyres (I know, its 13C / 55F, but this is just wrong) and there could be tyre noise, but I think I'm hearing the pads in constant contact with the discs. My daily commute is about 35miles each way on motorways and when I stop, the wheels and discs aren't significantly hot, but something is just bugging me. I used a clamp to push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new thicker pads over the new thicker discs so that's fine. There is some slight squealing at mid pressure (hard pressure and it goes, light pressure and it isn't there), but does the brake system pull the pistons back fully when everything is powered up? Is there anything I should do / look for?
Recently I balked at the proposed cost (here in the UK) for a main dealer to replace my front discs and pads, so I purchased Brembo discs and pads and fitted them myself. Other than the simplicity of fitting them compared to my previous B8 Audi S4 I'm now wondering whether the pads are dragging. It may be a combination of switching to winter tyres (I know, its 13C / 55F, but this is just wrong) and there could be tyre noise, but I think I'm hearing the pads in constant contact with the discs. My daily commute is about 35miles each way on motorways and when I stop, the wheels and discs aren't significantly hot, but something is just bugging me. I used a clamp to push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new thicker pads over the new thicker discs so that's fine. There is some slight squealing at mid pressure (hard pressure and it goes, light pressure and it isn't there), but does the brake system pull the pistons back fully when everything is powered up? Is there anything I should do / look for?
12-09-16, 09:45 AM
#24
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iTrader: (2)
Oddly enough, I've seen the OEM Jurid pads with Brembo markings on them. Jurid is stamped into the backing plate, but Brembo is stenciled on the pad as well. You are correct, Brembo does not make pads at all.
12-09-16, 10:32 AM
#25
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Well the pads came from a motor factors here in Edinburgh, and came in a Brembo box.
The discs came in Brembo boxes and I bought them from Amazon.
The part numbers show as Brembo in each instance.
Does that change anything though?
The discs came in Brembo boxes and I bought them from Amazon.
The part numbers show as Brembo in each instance.
Does that change anything though?
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Defratos (05-16-22)
12-19-16, 11:12 PM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the update Speedfreaks,
I managed to get one pad in on each caliper and the remaining two I've just given to our projects department to trim down by 1 or 2 mm.
I managed to get one pad in on each caliper and the remaining two I've just given to our projects department to trim down by 1 or 2 mm.
