flawless

Despite all the controversy, does anyone know the H&R spacer P/N for 15mm spacers on an ISF?

Their website only list is250/350 PN which is 30656014. I find it odd that they dont have the ISF listed but i know at least a few members are using them.

Thanks in advance!

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

P/N 30656014 works for the IS-F.. That's what I purchased through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-Mike

flawless

Thanks! Any issues with removing and replacing the studs? Any tips?

Tom2769

iTrader: (3)

Zach, I just put 20mm H&R's on mine. It was easier to get the old studs out than get the new ones in. I used an Autozone tie rod end remover and an impact wrench to push out the old studs. Lobux has also posted a link to a Harbor Freight tool that he uses for this purpose. To pull the new studs in, I used a lug nut with a 1" aluminum spacer (so the lug nut didn't bottom out) - put the stud thru the back of the hub, slide your spacer over the stud, and then thread on the lug nut. As you tighten the lug, it will pull the stud in and eventually seat it. I would suggest using something other than aluminum for the spacer - by the end of the job, my aluminum spacer was starting to deform. You may be able to use a stack of washers for a spacer. My impact wrench was able to tighten the lug enough to pull the studs in about 70-80% of the way, but I had to use a breaker bar to torque the lugs the rest of the way by hand. Hell of a workout - could have skipped arm day that week. And back day.

Check out ecstuning.com for the spacers - cheaper than amazon...

flawless

Excellent tips! I bought them from ECS and the harbor freight ball joint separator 99849.Got a long list of upgrades to finish!!

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

I used the HF ball joint separator to remove the old studs.. New ones were installed using an impact wrench with a stack of heavy duty flat washers & a large nut with matching thread pitch (instead of lug nut). Also, it's probably a good idea to put some anti-seize on the new stud threads to keep the nut spinning freely.

-Mike

flawless

Did you know you can reverse the HF ball joint separator to install the studs too?

Tom2769

iTrader: (3)

Nice! That would make the HF tool the tool of choice for this, hands down...

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that might work.. I didn't consider that since I had the impact wrench available. It seems to take quite a bit of torque to fully seat the wheel studs, so I'm sure it would require more effort.. Plus, you may need to brace the wheel hub to keep it from turning.

-Mike

Vervish

iTrader: (4)

I have done both mthods - IMO the washer/impact wrench makes things WAY easier. I broke 2 HF ball joint separators trying to use it to reinstall..

flawless

There is conversation that the additional tension required to seat the stud causes elongation and/or other damage to the stud which ultimately weakens it using the washer method. Here is a link which has a picture of the tool in reverse for installation;

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...llation/remova

Vervish

iTrader: (4)

From Toyota Manual:




I think it could be done either way..

Tom2769

iTrader: (3)

Interesting read. This emphasizes why, regardless of method used, regular checking and re-torquing of the lugs after stud replacement is in order...

dris250

Where did you guys get the new long studs for the 15mm spacers? Im planning on buying also the h&r 15mm.

Thanks

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

The H&R kit p/n I posted above includes replacement (longer) wheel studs.

-Mike