IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

08 electrical problem

Old 09-26-16, 05:44 PM
  #31  
socal3
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Originally Posted by Miqueaseli
If you know the previous owners information the battery you have still has the replacement warranty. Just get his information and take it in for a replacement or test at autozone. My battery died and had previous owners info went to Walmart provided such info and got a new battery .
The problem is I went to AutoZone and they charge the battery back up to 91% and said it was good. But there are certain people on this forum that say their Optima red top is just a problem battery. I think going to suck it up and buy new battery
Old 09-28-16, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by socal3
I'm going to put the car on a trickle charge tonight. I just find it odd
all the lights on but no check engine or codes you guys are probably right with battery/altanator.
well let me tell you these codes were driving me crazy decided to hook the tech stream back up and it wouldn't let me clear the codes. Now the car is running good battery was checked and determined good also. So I went to the good old google to find more answers to the codes I had previously posted. I came to the conclusion the car needed to be zero balanced went to YouTube and found a guy doing it on a Scion xB with a paper clip and what do you know it work cleared all the codes and when I was doing the paper clip method in the OBD2 port it was actually saying VSC testing in progress. Drove the car after for 15 min still no codes seems all good. Hope this helps anyone else out since I couldn't find any info on the forum about my issue👍.
Old 09-29-16, 08:03 AM
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What does zero balanced mean? Do you mean zeroing the yaw sensor? The FSM says to do this every time you get an alignment done, and it is easy to do with Techstream.
Old 10-10-16, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
What does zero balanced mean? Do you mean zeroing the yaw sensor? The FSM says to do this every time you get an alignment done, and it is easy to do with Techstream.
Well that's what they said they did but it went back to how it was. Car runs and drives perfect but all the guages are going wild and the vsc/trac light is on but no check engine light.
Old 10-17-16, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ISF5L
Sorry to hear mate. Hopefully it is an easy fix but regarding the exhaust, XForce. I have an XForce too and have a few warning issues VSC, Limp mode etc. Im sure an antifouler would fix it, they are cheap enough to pick up. Xforce actually sell one as well part # was BNG08. They fit in the original sensor spot so the sensor doesnt detect the higher flow from the aftermarket exhaust
wouldn't it have a check engine light if it was 02
related? My car won't even read out of the obd2 port? Says it can't connect.
Old 10-24-16, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wmjeffreyw
I had my gauges go crazy right before I lost a cell on my battery. After I replaced the battery the issue went away.
I hooked my battery charger up and the battery read 50% got it up to 68 on the charger and started the car no lights or anything and they were on when I drove the car. The voltage read 14.1 on the charger when running does that mean the battery is shot or maybe alternator problem? Thanks for any help I think it might be time to toss this optima red top!
Old 10-24-16, 05:35 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by socal3
I hooked my battery charger up and the battery read 50% got it up to 68 on the charger and started the car no lights or anything and they were on when I drove the car. The voltage read 14.1 on the charger when running does that mean the battery is shot or maybe alternator problem? Thanks for any help I think it might be time to toss this optima red top!
Try leaving it disconnected for about an hour (and then two of no voltage drop) and see what the voltage is reading after that. You can have an internal short that slowly trickles electrons to ground. With a multimeter you can check to a more specified degree but you can still use the charger if it tells you current battery voltage. If you're losing voltage while the car is sitting there off I would say your battery is bad. If it's not then it's something with the alternator or the conductors.

Voltage is the potential for the elctrons to do work so the higher the voltage the more work they can achieve.

If it's not the battery or the alternator start pulling fuses until the voltage drop stops and therein lies your problem.

Last edited by Bigjon3475; 10-24-16 at 05:38 PM.
Old 10-25-16, 08:15 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Bigjon3475
Try leaving it disconnected for about an hour (and then two of no voltage drop) and see what the voltage is reading after that. You can have an internal short that slowly trickles electrons to ground. With a multimeter you can check to a more specified degree but you can still use the charger if it tells you current battery voltage. If you're losing voltage while the car is sitting there off I would say your battery is bad. If it's not then it's something with the alternator or the conductors.

Voltage is the potential for the elctrons to do work so the higher the voltage the more work they can achieve.

If it's not the battery or the alternator start pulling fuses until the voltage drop stops and therein lies your problem.
Well I checked the battery this morning after letting it sit all night it was down to 49% from 79 the day before maybe a lot of people are right and these red top batterys are really crappy? Costco for a new battery tomorrow.
Old 10-26-16, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by socal3
Well I checked the battery this morning after letting it sit all night it was down to 49% from 79 the day before maybe a lot of people are right and these red top batterys are really crappy? Costco for a new battery tomorrow.

i guess they don't make them like they use to.
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