IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

CEL and check VSC WITHOUT headers !

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Old 02-09-16, 10:54 PM
  #31  
Joe Z
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Question

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Only for a moment, then it would throw all of the available 20% correction rich into the equation. The ECM's job is to run the engine and fail to least possible damage when something goes outside normal parameters. So it will go pig rich instantly when there is an intake leak. AMHIK.
Would the same apply to an exhaust gasket leak between the A/F sensors & O2 sensors..??

I've seen the CEL & Check VSC lights because of that issue..

Of course the codes would reflect accordingly as well.. I would think.,

Joe Z
Old 02-10-16, 09:57 AM
  #32  
I8ABMR
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Codes are in !!

P0101, p0172, and p0175.


Any clues !?!?
Old 02-10-16, 10:08 AM
  #33  
flowrider
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^^^^Looks like a problem with the MAF sensor to me!

Lou
Old 02-10-16, 10:26 AM
  #34  
I8ABMR
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Right on! Thanks, Lou. I called the SA and told him to tighten the blots for the exhaust as well after finding this.

I am tempted to pull the AOS as well to be safe. What do you guys think ??

Thanks again for all of your help.
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Old 02-10-16, 12:40 PM
  #35  
MileHIFcar
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I think the AOS is a quality product and is proven to pull some oil from entering your intake that otherwise would go in! I would just make sure the connections are tight and secure and leave it in there IMO unless it is directly proven to cause an issue in your case?

If your in doubt call up Rafi/Simon @ RR racing and talk to them about your potential issue, they're great guys and I think they'll answer all your concerns.

In the end it's your car do what you think is best for it, but keep us updated nonetheless.
Old 02-10-16, 12:59 PM
  #36  
idoke1
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I agree with MileHIFcar. I don't think it has to do with the AOS. It could be though if there's a vacuum leak from one of its hoses but those codes are pointing to some other factors as well.
Old 02-10-16, 01:10 PM
  #37  
Meanstreak
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^^^ +1. My AOS issue was completely my fault. Rafi and team do great work. See if the MAF clears it up. I have a strong suspicion it will.
Old 02-10-16, 01:23 PM
  #38  
I8ABMR
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THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP !! It really means a lot to me guys . I appreciate that we are all a community here to help one another.

YOU GUYS ARE MY FAVORITE F'ers !!!!

Just got a text saying the car is ready. I got new tires on her the day I took her in so I am dying to drive her. Will update. Fingers crossed !
Old 02-10-16, 02:59 PM
  #39  
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I would really want to know what happened to make the MAF fail. That is extremely unusual unless you've been running an oiled air filter. The MAF on my Supra is 22 years old with 156k miles on it and has never once given me any issues. I've never seen one fail without a clear cause, like installing an intake and dropping it, or some other mechanical shock. That's why I'd be doing a full leakdown on the AOS to see if it holds vacuum/pressure.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ow-sensor.html

Looks like this guy had a similar problem with his Camry and it turned out to be the PCV valve, not the MAF (after admitting he spent $120 to replace it).

I would not be so quick to believe the MAF is at fault.
Old 02-10-16, 04:00 PM
  #40  
Meanstreak
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These were the codes I got with AOS leak:

PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details

Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open

I couldn't make sense of it. Reset multiple times
and they would return within a few miles of driving. Finally data logged and saw excessive positive fuel trims ( Lterm) and traced it down. Tubing on exit side of separator was not pushed all the way into the connector creating a very small vacuum leak. No issues since with at least 5k miles.
Old 02-10-16, 06:21 PM
  #41  
I8ABMR
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UPDATE !!!


Picked up the car and immediately noticed when I fired her up that it was idling ruff, again. I played it off and took off. As I was driving home I kept getting this crazy stall and hesitation at about 3k and then the car would bog down and then TAKE OFF. I immediately called the SA and he says it could be the ECU relearning. ( Im thinking BS !! there is slow and there is a massive hesitation). I beat the hell out of her on the way home to see if she would " relearn " but the bogging and hesitation persisted. Frustrated I came home and looked at the AOS and noticed a few things. The hose on the exit side of the unit was not as flush as it once was and the canister base was able to turn by 1/8th of an inch. I tightened the hell out of it and pushed everything back together and went for a test drive and THE CAR FEELS NORMAL AGAIN !! Kind of in disbelief that the engine sensors are this sensitive

As usual, Lobux was correct . The AOS must have been the culprit. Not really sure how the connections come loose but they must have because I tightened everything and went out like 4 minutes later and the car feels fine. I will test her on the way to the gym tonight.

I installed my AOS to maintain performance and keep the engine clean, but I need consistency. If this happens again or there is any hesitation when driving I will have the unit removed.

I will admit that I would tighten the base of the AOS but never so tight that I couldn't undo it by hand. Not sure if it was the base that was lose or the connection on the side of the unit where the hoses exit the canister and connect to each other. All I know is that this annoyed the hell out of me and I hope this is over because I don't feel like heading back to the dealer.
Old 02-10-16, 07:27 PM
  #42  
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Hope you didn't have to pay for a new MAF sensor. Also hope others with the AOS don't have to experience this either, but that's now two people with the same issue.
Old 02-10-16, 09:18 PM
  #43  
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Put the kids to bed and went down to take a closer look. I think my issue was I was tightening the canister base by hand and I was doing it to where it was tight but not so tight that I can't untwist it by hand . I am pretty sure I was not tightening to the max because I took a 10" pair I pliers and tightened it and it went much further than by hand .

Took the car for a ride and skipped the gym and DAAAAMMN!! She is fast again .

My only question is are you guys tightening by hand or with pliers ? If it's by hand maybe switch.

Also is there a gasket that goes between the canister base and cap or is it just a screw type thing ? Thanks
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Old 02-10-16, 09:22 PM
  #44  
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proud of you working on your own car , small issues like this should be dealt at home and much more rewarding.
Old 02-10-16, 09:33 PM
  #45  
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I hand crank mine till I can't do it no more and apparently it's pretty tight because when I empty the canister I have to use pliers to unscrew it lol.....I have had zero issues with it and am glad every time I empty the canister to see that the oil it catches did not make it into the intake system!


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