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Rough installed today:
Figs race arms, full link set, end links, flca rear mount, next is flca front and fuca offset bushings paired with spc upper ball joints and new oem lowers. Rear knuckles are getting all the figs bushings (need to order the sphericals and going to put in new wheel bearing units.
Jic magic flt-a2 coilovers installed a couple weeks ago
Sikky sway bars installed a couple months ago
Custom subframe braces
Should be done adjusting tomorow then off to check the alignment, not set on a final install as of October I'll be going full widebody and a lot wider wheels on a corners so I'll be readjusting all the stuff to accommodate.
Thank you Ron! It's some amazing stuff honestly, easy to adjust and the ends are top notch. I've had several cars with multi link suspension and always done the installations. This was a bit more of a pita due to the cam bolt on the toe rod, I couldn't get the bolt back in the way it was so I put it in the other way and was still able to get it tight, figs listed to put the bolt in all the way inboard basically not utilizing it due to the threaded link for adjusting. The other problem was that I had my sikky sway bar on the stiffest setting and it was appearing to almost bind on the rear control arm along with the endlinks so I put it in the middle and called it good, I rather have in the middle setting (specially with coils now vs the stock suspension). Other than that I'm just waiting to get the new front lower ball joints, new wheel bearings and the remaining figs bushings
Thank you Ron! It's some amazing stuff honestly, easy to adjust and the ends are top notch. I've had several cars with multi link suspension and always done the installations. This was a bit more of a pita due to the cam bolt on the toe rod, I couldn't get the bolt back in the way it was so I put it in the other way and was still able to get it tight, figs listed to put the bolt in all the way inboard basically not utilizing it due to the threaded link for adjusting. The other problem was that I had my sikky sway bar on the stiffest setting and it was appearing to almost bind on the rear control arm along with the endlinks so I put it in the middle and called it good, I rather have in the middle setting (specially with coils now vs the stock suspension). Other than that I'm just waiting to get the new front lower ball joints, new wheel bearings and the remaining figs bushings
Had a lot of trouble doing the cam bolt on my figs toe links yesterday installing them and my mega arms. I had to install it backwards as well since we weren't able to get it back in the same way after fighting with it for way too long.
Thank you Ron! It's some amazing stuff honestly, easy to adjust and the ends are top notch. I've had several cars with multi link suspension and always done the installations. This was a bit more of a pita due to the cam bolt on the toe rod, I couldn't get the bolt back in the way it was so I put it in the other way and was still able to get it tight, figs listed to put the bolt in all the way inboard basically not utilizing it due to the threaded link for adjusting. The other problem was that I had my sikky sway bar on the stiffest setting and it was appearing to almost bind on the rear control arm along with the endlinks so I put it in the middle and called it good, I rather have in the middle setting (specially with coils now vs the stock suspension). Other than that I'm just waiting to get the new front lower ball joints, new wheel bearings and the remaining figs bushings
Like I said, all of them are new and the lower arms were the only ones installed at stock length. I realized with my setup after an alignment and some really aggressive runs up and down Whistler last PACNW supra meet that I really don't need the adjustability of any of the parts. I will do all poly bushings though. You got a great deal!!
Liquidtek- I was going to contact figs to see if this was ok (Idont see a problem with it this way just make sure you can tighten the nut good though.
Ron- this was a killer deal man, if ya need a hand with anything let me know!
Justin, you're an extremely lucky guy. I bang my head to the wall every day because i didnt jump onto this deal when it was still available. Now i gotta order a bunch of links and arms from Figs to pull in my aggressive set up.
Looks great! What on earth do you plan on doing with all that adjustability?
Originally Posted by Justind27
This was a bit more of a pita due to the cam bolt on the toe rod, I couldn't get the bolt back in the way it was so I put it in the other way and was still able to get it tight, figs listed to put the bolt in all the way inboard basically not utilizing it due to the threaded link for adjusting.
Other than that I'm just waiting to get the new front lower ball joints, new wheel bearings and the remaining figs bushings
Are the cam bolts hard to get in because of the new adjustable link? I replaced my cams with new parts when I did my toe links.
Putting the cam inboard as far as possible is a smart recommendation, it makes the toe links as long as possible, with minimizes the toe changes as the suspension cycles.
Are you getting OEM ball joints, or something else (ie. Moog, etc.)?
Looks great! What on earth do you plan on doing with all that adjustability?...
More importantly, how do you know you did not make things worse when installing the new pieces? Did you measure the old ones and adjust the new ones to match the old ones?
I won't plan to do this until I have a full model of the rear suspension so I know the impact of any adjustment I make from a camber and toe perspective.
Measured the links to make sure it was going back together the way things were, then added camber and had to play around a bit. It drives straight and everything seems good (set up a alignment appt through a friend) just to be sure.
Measured the links to make sure it was going back together the way things were, then added camber and had to play around a bit. It drives straight and everything seems good (set up a alignment appt through a friend) just to be sure.
Right, but the goal is to improve the suspension by understanding how the camber and toe change through the range of motion, and minimizing the bad while adding more of what is good. Suspension adjustments without knowing the impact relative to those curves can introduce some very weird responses and fundamentally change the nature of how the car drives especially over less than perfect surfaces. We saw this with the lowering blocks on the front knuckles. Sure, they got the car lower, but the geometry changes made almost everyone who bought them take them out right away.
I know I sound like a broken record, but knowing the roll center(s), roll axis, instant centers, scrub radius, and a host of other very important measurements makes all the difference in the world to your chassis setup. Measuring the chassis is still on my to do list, but I think it is critical to know what is happening if you are installing links with the ability to fundamentally change the length.
09-05-15, 09:45 PM
Show us your suspension work!
