Can anyone recommend a PPE header merchant with fair prices and good service??
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Can anyone recommend a PPE header merchant with fair prices and good service??
I am looking to buy a set of PPE headers for the IS F in the black ceramic coating. I don't know the advantages of mild steel vs stainless other than corrosion prevention with the stainless. Can anyone recommend a retailer and offer some insight on which metal/coating to get with the car? I have looked at PPE direct, FIGS, and JM Autosports. JM is the cheapest so far.
Last edited by Helo58; 08-10-15 at 11:53 AM.
#4
Your #1 Lexus Vendor
iTrader: (8)
Mod in Japan sells PPE headers too. All the vendors listed above are authorized vendors!
__________________
Your #1 Dealer for Aftermarket Performance Products
Orange County, CA
Email: info@merakiautoworks.com
Text/Call: 213 394 2886
Website: www.MerakiAutoworks.com
Your #1 Dealer for Aftermarket Performance Products
Orange County, CA
Email: info@merakiautoworks.com
Text/Call: 213 394 2886
Website: www.MerakiAutoworks.com
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
For the polished stainless, FIGS is $325 cheaper than PPE
For the mild steel in all configs, FIGS is $72 cheaper.
JM has only the mild steel in black for $7 cheaper than FIGS. Based on FIGS support of our cars, I would likely buy from them unless someone has them for WAY cheaper (and I mean CHA-CHING way cheaper).
It now boils down to material, Mild Steel or Stainless. Stainless at FIGS is only $47 more, but I really wanted the ceramic coating and this appears to have NO thermal coating. Thoughts anyone?
Trending Topics
#8
The stainless is a no-brainer.
The coating helps with heat dissipation.
Also recommend buying a set of OEM O2 sensors as the ones in the stock headers may be stuck, so it's easier to leave them where they are.
Also recommend finding someone HIGHLY QUALIFIED to conduct the install.
#9
Driver School Candidate
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...exus-is-f.html
I ordered mine from here.
They took about 6 weeks to arrive as they are usually build to order parts. I got the ceramic coating as well. I would definitely recommend it.
As 2URGSE said, buy 2 more sensors. It's much easier to just install new sensors. Plus, you won't have to worry about changing them if your ISF is on the higher mileage side. Mine were stuck, so I just chose to buy new ones. I've got 80k miles right now. It wasn't necessary, but I went ahead to changed them. They are expensive, so get ready.
The install isn't that hard if you are mechanically inclined. I will tell you to set aside an entire weekend for trouble shooting. I had it done in one day, with lots of breaks and a few beers in between.
I personally don't think it's as hard as everyone says it is. Taking the subframe out isn't hard. I had it out in 20-30 minutes tops. Power tools definitely help. Paying someone $600-$800 for labor just wasn't worth it for me.
I ordered mine from here.
They took about 6 weeks to arrive as they are usually build to order parts. I got the ceramic coating as well. I would definitely recommend it.
As 2URGSE said, buy 2 more sensors. It's much easier to just install new sensors. Plus, you won't have to worry about changing them if your ISF is on the higher mileage side. Mine were stuck, so I just chose to buy new ones. I've got 80k miles right now. It wasn't necessary, but I went ahead to changed them. They are expensive, so get ready.
The install isn't that hard if you are mechanically inclined. I will tell you to set aside an entire weekend for trouble shooting. I had it done in one day, with lots of breaks and a few beers in between.
I personally don't think it's as hard as everyone says it is. Taking the subframe out isn't hard. I had it out in 20-30 minutes tops. Power tools definitely help. Paying someone $600-$800 for labor just wasn't worth it for me.
#11
Driver School Candidate
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I would go for the stainless and coated. Mine ran about $1700 out the door, although I canceled my order due to other expenses.
The stainless is a no-brainer.
The coating helps with heat dissipation.
Also recommend buying a set of OEM O2 sensors as the ones in the stock headers may be stuck, so it's easier to leave them where they are.
Also recommend finding someone HIGHLY QUALIFIED to conduct the install.
The stainless is a no-brainer.
The coating helps with heat dissipation.
Also recommend buying a set of OEM O2 sensors as the ones in the stock headers may be stuck, so it's easier to leave them where they are.
Also recommend finding someone HIGHLY QUALIFIED to conduct the install.
Poached from the interweb on the performance welding headers website---
Stainless Steel vs. Mild Steel
A very popular question concerning the use of Stainless steel over Mild steel in a Competition Header application constantly arises in the industry. Stainless Steel is a better choice when Header lifespan, updates, and quality are an important consideration. A Stainless Steel Competition Header, when properly built, will virtually last you a lifetime.A Mild Steel Header in a Competition application will soon take its toll from the elements of high exhaust temperature and rust. Performance Welding has tried many Exhaust Coating manufacturers and have found none that will withstand the extreme temperature of a competition engine. On the inside of the primary tubes and at the throat of the Merged Collector, the thermal barrier coating simply cannot withstand the high temperature and after a very short period, the coating burns off and rust begins to generate.
This rust can be disastrous to any engine and can ruin many components.
On initial overlap, there is an inevitable reversion pulse that can send exhaust back up the intake tract. If the rust loosens in the header primary tube it can, and sometimes, will carry some of this abrasive material into your cylinder.
It is highly advisable after leaving Mild Steel Competition Headers over a period of time to take any precautions to remove the rust build up; on initial engine start up this rust can be disastrous.
Stainless Steel Headers have many benefits outweighing the initial cost increase. Due to the fact that they do not need a Thermal Barrier coating you save a few hundred dollars on the initial cost. Stainless Steel Headers can be repaired, or modified at any time in their lifespan due to the simple fact that they do not rust and do not need a Thermal coating. Mild Steel Headers are very tough to repair or modify due to Thermal Coatings and rust.
It is believed that due to Stainless Steel Thermal characteristics, the high exhaust temperature is retained inside the primary tubes and can increase the exhaust speed in the header, which in a Competition Racing Header sometimes is an important goal. Due to the simple fact that there is no rust generated, the inside of each primary tube will stay smooth and flow accordingly.
Performance Welding Racing Headers feel strongly about the use of Stainless Steel in your Competition Header application. If you have a Race vehicle that you truly wish your Competition header to last a lifetime, or if we have a proven Competition Header for your engines combination, or you simply like the benefits of Stainless Steel we highly recommend it in any Competition Header application
#13
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Further reading revealed that Stainless Steel has 1/3 the thermal conductivity of mild steel. The ceramic coating can only help further the difference between the two metals. The ceramic coating has 1/16 the thermal conductivity of SS but this is somewhat negated by how thin the coating is. To really determine the thermodynamic difference and radiant heat transfer between all of the systems, coating thickness would need to be known. I think it is safe to say though that properly bonded ceramic coating to the SS would offer the best performance gain and life with the only downside being repairability due to the coating should they ever get bent or damaged.
The takeaway? THE BIGGEST PERFORMANCE ADVANTAGE is stainless/CC over mild steel -- Better heat scavenging (faster exhaust flow) and dramatically lower underhood temps for those running open air filter elements on the intake side = comprehensive performance improvement for both intake and exhaust.
The takeaway? THE BIGGEST PERFORMANCE ADVANTAGE is stainless/CC over mild steel -- Better heat scavenging (faster exhaust flow) and dramatically lower underhood temps for those running open air filter elements on the intake side = comprehensive performance improvement for both intake and exhaust.
#14