BS ISF

Guys,

My driver's seat heater won't shut off even though the I have it off on the ****. It is only the lower seat back that is on. So I have been sweating my *** off driving around due to this. Is there any quick fix? pull a fuse? disconnect the heat underneath the seat?

ap2s2k

iTrader: (3)

I would just pull the heater fuse until you can diagnose the issue. It's located on the passenger side under the glove compartment, there is a little white fuse box hidden in there.

dcguy

It's just God, keeping an eye out for your sperm count...agreed with ap2 at least pull the fuse until you fully diagnose it.

BS ISF

^^^^hahaha! lmao! ok will due. this is the first little electrical gremlin that I have encountered in 5 years of ownership so no too upset about it.

VDODSON

Lol, sorry man but it is pretty funny. Sweating your *** off in summer with the heated seats on, lmao. Again, sorry.

BS ISF

oh dude it's f'ing brutal. I almost had to drive 6.5 hours for work trip and I was going to have to rent a car! hahaha

SoulFreak

iTrader: (1)

Lmao to all the comments above...did you pull the fuse, yet? I was wondering if you reached a solution. How about disconnecting the battery for 5 to 10mins? Aside from it resetting all your current settings, it might clear the error? Just a suggestion...

dcguy

I would assume the roll switch is some sort of rheostat, or variable resistor, might have gotten some dust in it. Perhaps pop the panel and tap it with a screwdriver? Does the red light stay lit even in the off position?

scottaw001

2015 IS 350 F-Sport unwanted heating (seat heaters are OFF)


Dealer says it isn't happening...the fight continues.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

^ perhaps it's the ghost of Kiichiro Toyoda

ZaxF

iTrader: (3)

Had to replace the switch on my moms 03 RX for the same issue. Part was pretty cheap from what I remember and a quick install. That fixed it.

I8ABMR

damn that is crazy. haha would be annoying as hell. Good luck. Sounds like a fuse pull will take care of it until you can address it

Kelliflowe

I thought I was just having a hot flash!

Bigjon3475

iTrader: (2)

Use a true rms meter (or an amp clamp) and see if there's any current flowing. It should be obvious. You have to watch electrical circuits with thermal cameras because 1 watt is equal 3.413 btus (matches) with regards to heat. Depending on how the camera is set up and its sensitivity levels it might give the impression there's large amounts of current flowing when in fact it's a trickle

fireball71

BS ISF, did you ever resolve this issue? I have a 2015 RC-F that's doing the same thing. Was it just the switch/button?