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At least we agree that the F runs too hot on track days.
If you see any varnish on the valvetrain at all, that would spell disaster. I've seen bearing failures on Subaru EJ25's (STi) and Honda F20C's (S2000) and the engines were extremely clean.
Also, you cant deny the fact that Lexus saw fit to add an auxiliary oil cooler to the RCF. Its not like its making much more power than most ISF's. Looks like the RCF is only making about 380whp on a dynojet from several postings I've seen, which is about where many ISF's are with basic bolt-ons.
Nissan takes things a step further and actually puts the ECU in to limp mode at about 280F, which equates to the 6 to 7 bar transition on our cars.
My ISF is a keeper, and I plan on tracking my F at 100k+ miles.... so an oil cooler is relatively inexpensive insurance.
-Rafi
Hey Rafi, so if I am driving in AZ and its the winter and we are in the low 40s or even 30's ( not likely ) what will the oil cooler do then? Will it be bipassed or will in create a lag in warm up?
Hey Rafi, so if I am driving in AZ and its the winter and we are in the low 40s or even 30's ( not likely ) what will the oil cooler do then? Will it be bipassed or will in create a lag in warm up?
If it has a thermostat, it'll bypass to warm-up. If it doesn't, you'll take forever to warm up - in this case, most people just block off the oil cooler with a piece of cardboard.
That's why we run a Mocal Thermostat. It gets up to 3 bars fairly quickly, about the same as with the stock setup.
BUT, currently we are running the cooler as a cap (for testing) and I can tell you its very easy to connect or disconnect the OEM cooler whenever you want. So in the summer you can bypass the cooler (or "warmer" depending on how you look at it:-), and in the winter you can easily plug the lines back in.
Rafi.
will the the unit be bipassed when cool or is it something that we can manually connect and disconnect based on ambient temps and usage.
If it has a thermostat, it'll bypass to warm-up. If it doesn't, you'll take forever to warm up - in this case, most people just block off the oil cooler with a piece of cardboard.
It has a thermostat that allows oil to get to proper operating temps. You can also keep the stock heat exchanger connected which helps oil reach temp a bit faster. I would never make an oil cooler kit without thermostat.
it would help because in all honestly the added is a but unique . Kind of confused me. Explain it on the web page so buyers here and elsewhere will know what makes it unique . It will only help
I am getting more interested . Yesterday I put baby seats in my car and was driving around with the family in 115 degrees ambient temps and I noticed my oil temp go to the 4th bar just under normal driving ( maybe a little showing off for the kids). The F monster needs some help
I am getting more interested . Yesterday I put baby seats in my car and was driving around with the family in 115 degrees ambient temps and I noticed my oil temp go to the 4th bar just under normal driving ( maybe a little showing off for the kids). The F monster needs some help
I am getting more interested . Yesterday I put baby seats in my car and was driving around with the family in 115 degrees ambient temps and I noticed my oil temp go to the 4th bar just under normal driving ( maybe a little showing off for the kids). The F monster needs some help
Hi Guys, its fairly easy. I am not going to post the full instructions, but here are some installation notes:
(1) You do not need to remove the bumper to install the cooler.
(2) The Mocal thermostat sandwich adaptor bolts in between the factory oil cooler and the filter housing as shown below.
(3) The lower hose gets routed along the bottom, and the upper hose gets routed along the top, so you do have to cut a rectangular portion out of the upper plastic grill (easy to do with a sharp utility knife or dremel).
(4) You can either keep the stock oil cooler connected or just make the coolant hose bypass the stock oil cooler. For street applications, we recommend bypassing the OEM oil cooler because you will run lower coolant temperatures, which will result in more power (ECU uses coolant temps to determine fueling and ignition advance...). We found that on a recent track session on a very humid 93deg day, we still ran up to 6 bars oil temp with the OEM cooler disconnected (but never overheated the oil, with just the stock oil cooler, under similar conditions we were getting a warning light after just 4 laps), so keeping the OEM cooler connected will give you huge cooling capacity for the most extreme conditions.
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I live in a country that sees between 91f when its normal temp to 111f in summer (which is now) and the weather stays this hot and humid for a good 4 months. Would you recommend keeping the factory the OEM cooler connected?
I never track my car but beat on it daily. With the current OEM cooler I only see 1 bar above the middle range when I drive to and back from work.
Is the sandwich plate available in a higher temp setting? What if I retain the stock oil cooling system but use a higher temp sandwich plate? Basically using the aftermarket cooler only when absolutely needed. Is that possible?
Is the sandwich plate available in a higher temp setting? What if I retain the stock oil cooling system but use a higher temp sandwich plate? Basically using the aftermarket cooler only when absolutely needed. Is that possible?
You can run our oil cooler together with factory cooler, this would equate to the same setup as on the RCF.
07-18-15, 03:30 PM
