RedlineAZ

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, so I wanted to replace my OEM studs with either new OEM studs or ARP extended studs. I want to replace them because I wasn't running proper hub rings and I just want to make sure that I replace the studs because of the harsh vibrations it had at higher speeds. I just ordered some steel generic closed end longer tuner lug nuts http://www.ebay.com/itm/380972453301

And now I am debating on which studs to go with. My wheels specs are:
Front: 20x9 +32
Rear: 20x10.5 +45

Although these offsets aren't too aggressive, the lug nuts in the front are sunken in like crazy compared to the rear
Fronts:




Rear



Given that the new lug nuts I bought are a bit longer, should I buy extended ARP studs or replace them with just standard OEM ones? I am only a bit worried about longer studs in the rear because the offsets are weak and because the lug nut has a closed end, I don't know if the extended lug is going to be longer (have more threads) then the lug nut itself, even after I put the wheel on because the offsets in the rear are so weak. Thoughts?

ARP Stud link http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=75

RedlineAZ

iTrader: (5)

92 views, no answers eh? lol

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

what you are seeing is the way the wheel is designed. the hub seat on the wheel on the front protrudes out from the hub for brake caliper clearance. its very normal and there is no need for ARP studs.

RedlineAZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks bro!!!!!

Sylvan

iTrader: (6)

I would also be worried about the closed end nuts bottoming out on the extended studs. I would go with OEM replacements. Do you have any pictures of the rear wheel fitment?

RedlineAZ

iTrader: (5)

Thats what I was wondering about. Heres a pic of the fitment before I lowered it, its only about .6" lower in the rear though
Attachment 495137

Sylvan

iTrader: (6)

Nice fitment, what size tires? I have 19x9.5 +35 with 275mm tires and it rubs...a lot so I am thinking of changing up the wheels

RedlineAZ

iTrader: (5)

I'm running 20x10.5 +45 with 285/25/20 tires and it rubbed at stock height over big dips, but I rolled my rear fenders and even after I lowered it .6" it never rubbed again.

You're 10mm more aggressive on the offset, but smaller tire and 1 inch less wide wheel, wonder if you roll the fenders if it will help. If I understand it correctly, I don't think the width of the wheel makes a difference as to how far it pokes out, because where the wheel hub is, is identical no matter what width the wheel is, but based on your offset it protrudes outward(away from the car) more then mine by 10mm.

Maybe someone can chime in on this if I am mistaken. As for the wheels, you don't have to get a different wheel, a good wheel shop can machine your wheel hub down a bit to have less aggressive of an offset, but they can't add to the wheel to make it a more aggressive offset.

skihawaii

what torque are you guys using when replacing with arp studs?
when I emailed arp, they sent me a link using the tensile strength and diameter, which was listed as 112flbs.
what would you use?

RichFlair

iTrader: (2)

I've used arp wheel studs on a car that has a spool in the rear end, which takes constant abuse when turning. I drove with that setup for a couple years without any fail. Arp makes a mean stud.

ISFpat

iTrader: (10)

I have full ARP studs on my daily (not an ISF) and its definitely not needed even with vibrations. Our OEM studs can take a beating and TBH it won't accomplish anything for your vibration issue.