ashutoshvs

Hi,
I am hitting 65K miles on my 2008 ISF. Any advice on spark plug replacements. As of now my choice is to get it done at the dealer.
Ash

goukie

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7331852-post17.html

kauaian

iTrader: (18)

If you're mechanically inclined and have changed plugs before you can do them on the ISF. It's a little time consuming because you have to move a few surrounding things and work space is tight but it's not hard. If you don't feel comfortable take it to the dealer.

JKweezy

I followed the diy in post #2. Very time consuming due to a couple of tight spaces trying to get the bolts off of the cover. But once off, a breeze. Plus you will save big on the labor charged by a mechanic, which from what i was quoted around 400-500 just for the labor itself. If you can change your own oil or do your own brake job, then you should be able to tackle this task. When all is done, my mpg returned back to close to when I 1st got her w/ 3k miles on the odo...

s2kmr

iTrader: (1)

I just had my plugs/oil/diff/coolant/tranny fluids/brake fluids (super blue), brake lines (SS) replaced last weekend, plugs were pain to removed, had to pull the fuse box. My friend did all the work in Lexus dealer where he work as master tech. 55k miles.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I did my plugs when I did the valve lash inspection. I already had everything out (and a lot more) to get the valve covers off. It took some time, but it's way easier than assembling a 5 valve per cylinder Yamaha bike engine.

MK4Sup_isF

iTrader: (10)

wow 4-500??? It's only a less than 1 hr job. My buddy's shop did it for me for 80 bucks

ashutoshvs

any recommendation for a shop in san francisco bay area

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

i also did it myself. took me longer because i didnt want to scratch up anything under the engine bay, also torqued each spark plug to spec but was very straight forward. its obvious to see what you need to remove to get to the plugs. also , you get to clean under you hood with all of that stuff off.

JKweezy

And a member mentioned to use anti-seize in the other thread but i've been reading about NOT to use it as it over torques the plug in actuality... i made the mistake and hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ****.. also denso recommends NOT using any thread lubricants here anyways... it was my first time DIY spark plugs on any car as i read about it afterwards but just went with the suggestion in that thread of using it...

I8ABMR

when is it recommended by Lexus ? I thought they were good for 100K/ Maybe Im thinking of my LS460

DaLurker

Weird. I've used anti-seize on all my exhaust parts + spark plugs since I've been able to drive... Never had an issue.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If the plug's shell distorts, the heat range will be affected and the plug could run hot. Denso has been saying not to run anti-seize forever. I ran it on all my air cooled bikes because they're so hard on plugs and frequent changes mean the threads will wear out quickly unless you do something to prevent pulling a little aluminum out every time you remove the plug. I don't run it on cars because the service interval is so long it won't make a difference.

For sure, if you tighten to a value determined with dry threads using anti-seize (or any other lubricant) you'll overtighten the fastener.

Lexus says 60k miles for US IS-Fs.

melbitoast

iTrader: (1)

I'm approaching 60k miles on mine, so I need to begin considered plug replacements. Is there a particular spark plug we should use or not use?

Stupid Question Amnesty here: Are there any that provide more power but don't harm the engine?

TIA!

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

just get OEMs