Look Here 2011+ LED headlights Stand Alone Fog DYI
#16
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This is not possible. The factory switch sends a network message to the BEAN ECU to turn on the lights. All of the lights. Getting the factory switch to do this will not work unless you can modify the code in the BEAN ECU. I looked into this extensively when I had my 350.
#17
Well, ok, I just did some quick experiments:
1. I tapped the green/red wire into each one of the 3 wires on the connector next to the module. This resulted in the fog lights turning ON with IGN ON and off with IGN OFF of course. fog light Switch is non-functional.
2. I tapped the same wire into the brighter green wire (next to the purple/red wire) on the same connector where the green/red wire is, and the fog lights now turn on with park lights, and still turn off with the timer and light switch of course. I just basically made them part of the park lights. I like this cause I can still turn them off with the car running. They still auto turn off of course if left on. Fog light switch is also now non-functional.
Both of these did not require wire through the firewall or a second switch.
I can post pictures and videos if need be.
1. I tapped the green/red wire into each one of the 3 wires on the connector next to the module. This resulted in the fog lights turning ON with IGN ON and off with IGN OFF of course. fog light Switch is non-functional.
2. I tapped the same wire into the brighter green wire (next to the purple/red wire) on the same connector where the green/red wire is, and the fog lights now turn on with park lights, and still turn off with the timer and light switch of course. I just basically made them part of the park lights. I like this cause I can still turn them off with the car running. They still auto turn off of course if left on. Fog light switch is also now non-functional.
Both of these did not require wire through the firewall or a second switch.
I can post pictures and videos if need be.
#19
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So you are bypassing the fog lamp relay and putting the full load of the fog lamps on the other power source you are tapping. Not sure if that's a good idea. Take a look at this wiring diagram and decide how you want to hack it. The blue wire (L) comes from the BEAN ECU where the actual switch connects.
#20
That's why I was asking for a schematic earlier. I did not leave it rewired, it's now back
To stock configuration. I wanted to know if the relay is within the module and find out which wire is the signal from the low beam. If I can find out what that signal is and get it from the park lights or other sources, it will be independent of the low beams.
Doesn't hooking it up to the main power wire also bypasses the relay? But it's probably ok since it is a bigger wire.
To stock configuration. I wanted to know if the relay is within the module and find out which wire is the signal from the low beam. If I can find out what that signal is and get it from the park lights or other sources, it will be independent of the low beams.
Doesn't hooking it up to the main power wire also bypasses the relay? But it's probably ok since it is a bigger wire.
#22
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Ideally you'd want to ground the wire from 10 on the internal side of the controller, but it does not appear to have any externally accessible connection. The relay can't be small if it is carrying a 15a fuse, but the trick is to figure out how to ground it using the available connections. Power is already available through the fog fuse.
The blue wire and the gray wire both carry what amount to network packets which are decoded by the rectangular device inside the controller. There might be a way to employ this part, but this whole networked device control issue is why people have gone to hardwire solutions.
Toyota went to the network solution to reduce the weight of the wiring harness. If you look at most of the switch controlled devices on the car, they're all managed by this multiplexed network, not by individual wires as it was in older vehicles. It gives Toyota more flexibility and a lighter wiring harness (some say they were able to reduce total harness weight by 200 lbs!), but if you want to modify anything, you're pretty much forced to hardwire around the existing systems.
The blue wire and the gray wire both carry what amount to network packets which are decoded by the rectangular device inside the controller. There might be a way to employ this part, but this whole networked device control issue is why people have gone to hardwire solutions.
Toyota went to the network solution to reduce the weight of the wiring harness. If you look at most of the switch controlled devices on the car, they're all managed by this multiplexed network, not by individual wires as it was in older vehicles. It gives Toyota more flexibility and a lighter wiring harness (some say they were able to reduce total harness weight by 200 lbs!), but if you want to modify anything, you're pretty much forced to hardwire around the existing systems.
#23
That's what I was trying to do initially, find the switched ground signal dependent on the low beam. But I had no luck
So I thought I just kind of copy the original rewire posted here, but use a different switched 12V source. Yeah, the park lights wire will be overloaded
Lobux, do you have the rest of the diagram showing the park and headlights? Thanks.
If I understand right, No.10 looks like to be controlled by both the switch and most likely the low beam signal, both should be active at the same time to turn the fogs on. There has to an external wire going into the module triggered by the low beam, whether it's a ground or 12V signal, that can be reproduced using a simple relay circuit triggered by any switched 12V source like the park lights wire for example. Or is it more complicated than that?
So I thought I just kind of copy the original rewire posted here, but use a different switched 12V source. Yeah, the park lights wire will be overloaded
Lobux, do you have the rest of the diagram showing the park and headlights? Thanks.
If I understand right, No.10 looks like to be controlled by both the switch and most likely the low beam signal, both should be active at the same time to turn the fogs on. There has to an external wire going into the module triggered by the low beam, whether it's a ground or 12V signal, that can be reproduced using a simple relay circuit triggered by any switched 12V source like the park lights wire for example. Or is it more complicated than that?
Last edited by JT2MA71; 01-26-14 at 05:55 PM.
#24
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...There has to an external wire going into the module triggered by the low beam, whether it's a ground or 12V signal, that can be reproduced using a simple relay circuit triggered by any switched 12V source like the park lights wire for example. Or is it more complicated than that?
This is also why we get roll down windows by holding the unlock button, but no auto roll up like the rest of the world gets. It's all controlled by the BEAN. It would be fun to hack it, but if it's anything like their engine management, it's an impossible task.
#25
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That's the problem. There isn't a wire. All that logic happens in the BEAN ECU, and the BEAN ECU sends a message to the fog light controller telling it to turn on (by grounding the connection at 10 in the diagram.) That's how the got rid of a whole lot of wiring. Simple network connection with a proprietary protocol. BEAN stands for Body Electrical Area Network, and it is entirely owned by Toyota for Scion/Toyota/Lexus vehicles. No standards like CAN. So they pretty much can do whatever they like without any regard for what we want.
This is also why we get roll down windows by holding the unlock button, but no auto roll up like the rest of the world gets. It's all controlled by the BEAN. It would be fun to hack it, but if it's anything like their engine management, it's an impossible task.
This is also why we get roll down windows by holding the unlock button, but no auto roll up like the rest of the world gets. It's all controlled by the BEAN. It would be fun to hack it, but if it's anything like their engine management, it's an impossible task.
~ Joe Z
#28