lobuxracer

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Close. 2013 and later shocks and springs are best by far. 2011 rear subframe with differential gets you all the bushing and LSD updates. 2011 steering ECU (or later) and you're pretty much there for OEM updates.

I wouldn't bother with F Sport sways. The car needs more spring, not more sway. Stiffer sways are a band aid for poor spring selection.

ISF001

The 2012 came out with new German ZF shock absorbers, wider wheels, new bearings, and strong stabilizer bars...so I have read.

JM51526

Thanks again, all - though you guys are killing me! A shame all this info isn't gathered conclusively in one place. Guess that goes with the territory on a rather niche vehicle.

For now I'm still saving - and plan on looking for an 11+.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

They're definitely new, and the NCF has some pretty graphs of how the damping is different, but I've heard Sachs as the manufacturer. The only way to know for sure it for an owner to take a look at them. Tokico built the earlier units.

ScottNY

Car and Driver mag runs fast cars on its Lightning Lap course. It's tested both the old and new IS-F suspensions.

The difference is much bigger than you'd think: the 2011 Lexus IS-F lap time was 3:05.4, 2008 Lexus IS-F lap time was 3:14.0. That's 8.6 seconds faster for the new suspension. It's the 54th fastest car they've tested, the 2008 model was 99th.

For perspective, the LFA is 2:55.1, roughly as much faster than a 2011 IS-F as a 2011 is than a 2008 IS-F.

The results are here:

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...o-2013-page-10

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

A considerable amount of this improvement is the Torsen limited slip. Rumors have it lap times at Fuji dropped 5 seconds with just adding a mechanical limited slip. The rest of the improvements were related to better toe control in the rear, and less flex from stiffer rear subframe bushings with springs and shocks better matched to this configuration.

TinManSam

I realize I'm about 9 months late to this conversation, but I have a perfect example of why the 2010+ models are so much faster around a track. I've had my 08 on the track twice now and both times the obvious weakest link with the car is the open diff.

Here's a video from last week that very clearly shows the problem at 0:19, 0:50, 2:07, 2:28, 4:09, 5:19, 5:29, and 5:48. Add up all the time lost by the inside tire spinning and ABS trying to stop the loss of traction, and you'll probably find a couple seconds.

I8ABMR

Not only will the 2010+ handle better on the street and the track.....they also have less issues with teething problems. The first 2 years are generally when they work out common issues. Get the 2010 or 2011 if you can

RMA

Reading this thread has me thinking about purchasing an OS Giken LSD in the very near future...

ISF4life

iTrader: (30)

If u track ur car or driving lot of canyons, u got to have it

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The obvious weakest link is the soft front springs. The chirping is the eDiff? First, I've never heard it in my car, and second, if you think the eDiff is bad, you should turn it off with the pedal dance and see the difference. I've done this, and it's a disaster. The OEM Torsen will fare no better if the inside rear lifts, so the truth is, it's better if the inside rear doesn't lift, and the only way to do that is to put more spring on the front.

This doesn't mean I wouldn't put a limited slip in the diff, it just means I'll start fixing the problem with chassis setup, not a differential spool.

TinManSam

You are correct, the understeer was the first obvious weak link I noticed, and to help with that I swapped the wheels and tires. I've contemplated getting a coil over kit, but I think I'd be better off saving that money for a 2011+ model in the near future.

In the video above the microphone was mounted just above the rear license plate, so most of the tire sequel you're hearing is the rear tires.

I was running 245/40/18 Direzza ZI's in the front and some left over 275/35/18 General G-Max in the rear (looking for a pair of 275 Direzzas right now). The tires helped ALOT with the understeer, but the rear inside wheel is still constantly spinning when accelerating out of a corner -partially from the rear tires, which I admit I need to change- but a car with this much power should never have been made without a limited slip.

Yeah, I've felt the eLSD kick in several times (usually when taking a steep driveway at an angle) and it's definitely more of an ABS-like pulse than a smooth, gradual buffer.

Don't get me wrong though, for a four door daily driver, this car is AMAZING on the track. Just wish they would have included the torsen on all models... but what can we do about it? Other than spend $3k on an LSD or buy a 10+? I'm still very happy with the car.

stoked

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sc3dreamin

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brought back from the dead

I was in this situation not long ago, opted for a 2011+ for all the upgrades

LSD Diff , suspension overhaul, LED headlights, updated NAV + bluetooth audio, better steering wheel, updated gauge cluster, steering ECU, alcantara seats

So many upgrades it just made sense to spend more money on a 2011+ to me.

Even if you did coil overs and a rear diff you could spend 5-6k on those alone so the price difference is worth it to me.

blackisF08

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