Lexus IS F Wearever Brake pad issue / Just a Opinion
03-22-13, 04:43 PM
#16
Same here, I have Wearevers sitting in my closet. The only thing that bothers me is the ridiculous amount of dust with the OEM Brembo's, which I have heard is way less with Wearevers. The Wearevers pay for themselves since I spend so much $ on wheel cleaners.
03-23-13, 04:19 AM
#17
I am in the same boat as a lot of you guys. I bought my Wearevers a few months back because I wanted something a little lower dusting than the OEMs, and I just have them sitting in my garage waiting for my OEMs to wear out. It wasn't a money issue, meaning I didn't try to "cheap out" by getting these pads, it was an issue of finding low dusting readily available pads and these got good reviews.
Anyone else have the problems of the OP?
Anyone else have the problems of the OP?
03-23-13, 06:13 AM
#18
Wearever pads
I think we are jumping to some unproven conclusions here ladies and gents. The OP first needs to have his rotors checked for thickness variations, which is highly likely given that the oem pads only lasted 18k. And the fact that the oem pads are made out of some very heavy rotor wearing material, hence the lip that formed on your rotor, yes you rotor really was that thick at one time! This is very common on Brembo equipped vehicles, and we see it every day at our shop. I am in noway a fan of Wearever products, I just think we need to keep this discussion fair. Secondly op the cracking you are seeing on the inner pad surface is indicative of a pad that has NOT been bedded in properly, (http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php) we ALWAYS bed pads before a vehicle is released to the customer, and ALWAYS recommended that a vehicle is driven gently for the first 500 miles after the pads are replaced. This gives the pads time to conform to the surface of the rotors and apply a proper and uniform pad material to the surface of the rotor. (Which is in fact what can cause what some people refer to as "warped" brake rotors, this is actually more often than not the build up of pad material on one place of the rotor causing a thickness variation resulting in a brake pedal pulsation.) OP doing 110mph panic stops on fresh pads which have not been bedded in properly caused excessive heat, and cracking of the brake pad material, and this is in no way a fault of the brake pad. A simple testing with a micrometer of the brake pad for uniform thickness will tell you if the pads have been constructed properly and are of uniform thickness. I have seen many pads form every manufacturer built crooked. It happens all of the time, but, in this case I think the fault lies in the brake rotor and excessive wear on its surface. I am also of the same school of thought that there are few things you don't cheap out of in life, 1. pacemakers 2. firearms 3. tires 4. brake pads and related components 5. parachutes and finally bullet proof vest. These are the view things that when you REALLY need them you hope that you have the best that money can buy because your life depends on it. Hope this helps.
Last edited by ming15237; 03-23-13 at 06:20 AM.
03-23-13, 10:36 AM
#20
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I think we are jumping to some unproven conclusions here ladies and gents. The OP first needs to have his rotors checked for thickness variations, which is highly likely given that the oem pads only lasted 18k. And the fact that the oem pads are made out of some very heavy rotor wearing material, hence the lip that formed on your rotor, yes you rotor really was that thick at one time! This is very common on Brembo equipped vehicles, and we see it every day at our shop. I am in noway a fan of Wearever products, I just think we need to keep this discussion fair. Secondly op the cracking you are seeing on the inner pad surface is indicative of a pad that has NOT been bedded in properly, (http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php) we ALWAYS bed pads before a vehicle is released to the customer, and ALWAYS recommended that a vehicle is driven gently for the first 500 miles after the pads are replaced. This gives the pads time to conform to the surface of the rotors and apply a proper and uniform pad material to the surface of the rotor. (Which is in fact what can cause what some people refer to as "warped" brake rotors, this is actually more often than not the build up of pad material on one place of the rotor causing a thickness variation resulting in a brake pedal pulsation.) OP doing 110mph panic stops on fresh pads which have not been bedded in properly caused excessive heat, and cracking of the brake pad material, and this is in no way a fault of the brake pad. A simple testing with a micrometer of the brake pad for uniform thickness will tell you if the pads have been constructed properly and are of uniform thickness. I have seen many pads form every manufacturer built crooked. It happens all of the time, but, in this case I think the fault lies in the brake rotor and excessive wear on its surface. I am also of the same school of thought that there are few things you don't cheap out of in life, 1. pacemakers 2. firearms 3. tires 4. brake pads and related components 5. parachutes and finally bullet proof vest. These are the view things that when you REALLY need them you hope that you have the best that money can buy because your life depends on it. Hope this helps.
03-23-13, 11:00 AM
#21
Lexus Champion
I think we are jumping to some unproven conclusions here ladies and gents. The OP first needs to have his rotors checked for thickness variations, which is highly likely given that the oem pads only lasted 18k. And the fact that the oem pads are made out of some very heavy rotor wearing material, hence the lip that formed on your rotor, yes you rotor really was that thick at one time! This is very common on Brembo equipped vehicles, and we see it every day at our shop. I am in noway a fan of Wearever products, I just think we need to keep this discussion fair. Secondly op the cracking you are seeing on the inner pad surface is indicative of a pad that has NOT been bedded in properly, (http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php) we ALWAYS bed pads before a vehicle is released to the customer, and ALWAYS recommended that a vehicle is driven gently for the first 500 miles after the pads are replaced. This gives the pads time to conform to the surface of the rotors and apply a proper and uniform pad material to the surface of the rotor. (Which is in fact what can cause what some people refer to as "warped" brake rotors, this is actually more often than not the build up of pad material on one place of the rotor causing a thickness variation resulting in a brake pedal pulsation.) OP doing 110mph panic stops on fresh pads which have not been bedded in properly caused excessive heat, and cracking of the brake pad material, and this is in no way a fault of the brake pad. A simple testing with a micrometer of the brake pad for uniform thickness will tell you if the pads have been constructed properly and are of uniform thickness. I have seen many pads form every manufacturer built crooked. It happens all of the time, but, in this case I think the fault lies in the brake rotor and excessive wear on its surface. I am also of the same school of thought that there are few things you don't cheap out of in life, 1. pacemakers 2. firearms 3. tires 4. brake pads and related components 5. parachutes and finally bullet proof vest. These are the view things that when you REALLY need them you hope that you have the best that money can buy because your life depends on it. Hope this helps.
03-23-13, 12:22 PM
#23
I think we are jumping to some unproven conclusions here ladies and gents. The OP first needs to have his rotors checked for thickness variations, which is highly likely given that the oem pads only lasted 18k. And the fact that the oem pads are made out of some very heavy rotor wearing material, hence the lip that formed on your rotor, yes you rotor really was that thick at one time! This is very common on Brembo equipped vehicles, and we see it every day at our shop. I am in noway a fan of Wearever products, I just think we need to keep this discussion fair. Secondly op the cracking you are seeing on the inner pad surface is indicative of a pad that has NOT been bedded in properly, (http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php) we ALWAYS bed pads before a vehicle is released to the customer, and ALWAYS recommended that a vehicle is driven gently for the first 500 miles after the pads are replaced. This gives the pads time to conform to the surface of the rotors and apply a proper and uniform pad material to the surface of the rotor. (Which is in fact what can cause what some people refer to as "warped" brake rotors, this is actually more often than not the build up of pad material on one place of the rotor causing a thickness variation resulting in a brake pedal pulsation.) OP doing 110mph panic stops on fresh pads which have not been bedded in properly caused excessive heat, and cracking of the brake pad material, and this is in no way a fault of the brake pad. A simple testing with a micrometer of the brake pad for uniform thickness will tell you if the pads have been constructed properly and are of uniform thickness. I have seen many pads form every manufacturer built crooked. It happens all of the time, but, in this case I think the fault lies in the brake rotor and excessive wear on its surface. I am also of the same school of thought that there are few things you don't cheap out of in life, 1. pacemakers 2. firearms 3. tires 4. brake pads and related components 5. parachutes and finally bullet proof vest. These are the view things that when you REALLY need them you hope that you have the best that money can buy because your life depends on it. Hope this helps.
The "crooked" or uneven molding of the pad compound described is usually due to the wear on the mold that is being used by the manufacturer. Most mid-lower end manufacturers do not have QA in place to check often enough to catch this wear, so entire batches dispatched from the manufacturer may have the same uneven material. The processes are automated and depending on the investment in capital (multiple inspection cameras) or the batch inspection (1 every 100 or 1000 units) it is possible to have several pads behave the same way. Molds are expensive, so they may be willing to ease up on what is "passable," This is easier to identify based on the date codes stamped into the pad backing plate or on the box, if available.
03-24-13, 07:52 PM
#24
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just to clear up some info here my oem pads had plenty of life and where just being replaced due to being annoyed with brake dust amount. I never measured my rotors but they where fine. I was also very easy on these for several hundred miles after i thought they where all set...then my lead foot kicked back in after with dralws...but anyway the input is great. also I wanted to restate this is just my opinion and in now way stating that
everyone will have this issue but just wanted to make it aware incase you have this issue... and i agree a few other things not to cheap out on....safty glasses.metal support beams. and condoms...lol
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everyone will have this issue but just wanted to make it aware incase you have this issue... and i agree a few other things not to cheap out on....safty glasses.metal support beams. and condoms...lol
Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android
03-25-13, 06:09 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
Question: When you guys replace the pads w/o changing the rotors. Do you guys do anything special to the rotor to clean it up such as putting a steel wool to it or sandpaper?
03-25-13, 06:12 PM
#27
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I think we are jumping to some unproven conclusions here ladies and gents. The OP first needs to have his rotors checked for thickness variations, which is highly likely given that the oem pads only lasted 18k. And the fact that the oem pads are made out of some very heavy rotor wearing material, hence the lip that formed on your rotor, yes you rotor really was that thick at one time! This is very common on Brembo equipped vehicles, and we see it every day at our shop. I am in noway a fan of Wearever products, I just think we need to keep this discussion fair. Secondly op the cracking you are seeing on the inner pad surface is indicative of a pad that has NOT been bedded in properly, (http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php) we ALWAYS bed pads before a vehicle is released to the customer, and ALWAYS recommended that a vehicle is driven gently for the first 500 miles after the pads are replaced. This gives the pads time to conform to the surface of the rotors and apply a proper and uniform pad material to the surface of the rotor. (Which is in fact what can cause what some people refer to as "warped" brake rotors, this is actually more often than not the build up of pad material on one place of the rotor causing a thickness variation resulting in a brake pedal pulsation.) OP doing 110mph panic stops on fresh pads which have not been bedded in properly caused excessive heat, and cracking of the brake pad material, and this is in no way a fault of the brake pad. A simple testing with a micrometer of the brake pad for uniform thickness will tell you if the pads have been constructed properly and are of uniform thickness. I have seen many pads form every manufacturer built crooked. It happens all of the time, but, in this case I think the fault lies in the brake rotor and excessive wear on its surface. I am also of the same school of thought that there are few things you don't cheap out of in life, 1. pacemakers 2. firearms 3. tires 4. brake pads and related components 5. parachutes and finally bullet proof vest. These are the view things that when you REALLY need them you hope that you have the best that money can buy because your life depends on it. Hope this helps.
03-26-13, 07:35 AM
#29
Brake pad break-in procedure.
After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:
Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down.
04-01-13, 08:46 PM
#30
It seems like i have the same issue with Wearevers pads. I was painting my caliper over the weekend and i took liberty of pulling my front pads out and took a pic. IMO these pads are still great. I mean, we all bought these pads for one reason only and its because it accumulates less dust on our wheels which it really does. I don't drive aggressively so this suites me very well.
