zazzn

yes mine has 88k miles now so it's also high up there but took me 2 years to discover the issue. I think I've stabilized been a week and coolant level is the same... The best way to know is if you have no heat, basically the coolant isn't low enough to over heat the engine but it's low enough not to get to the heater core unless you drive the car hard and force the pump to spin up faster.

IE rev over 4k, now though I have haet at low speeds and idle again...

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

Well, I am definitely smelling coolant now (sweet smell)
It is more pronounced through the passenger side front grill. I want to think that it is just hot plastic or something,
But when I pop the hood open and start tracing the smell, there's none anywhere over the engine, I do smell it on the same side, on the front side of the core support, through the holes on the plastic trim, none on the engine compartment side. I called the service tech at my local dealer and mentioned the issue and told him about the documented cases, and was told they just fix them on a case by case basis , mine coolant level has only gone from the top of the word "full" to the now the bottom in less than 3500 miles. This is cold level btw but I have been monitoring the level when hot now. I do have heat, when on of course, at all times.
I'm just wondering if I should just wait until it loses more coolant or pursue and convince the dealer to go ahead and diagnose and fix. What would you guys do? Also, if anyone here whose car is known for sure has none of these symptoms could kindly please check for the sweet smell at the areas I mentioned and post here, I'd greatly appreciate it

Thanks.

digger08

iTrader: (1)

Waiting on the parts in the back of the dealership





New part arrived, repair proceeding.




Digger08

digger08

iTrader: (1)

Update on the heat exchanger leak.....My car is back fixed.

Warranty replaced most of it. Warranty labor was 1110.28 (8.9 Hours), parts were 640.00 they replaced my exchanger assembly, as I stated before, and deemed it deformed.

Most repairs that have been reported in the USA are simple silicone re and re.

Same as zazzn they had to replace 4 high pressure injector connectors, so looks like they break at the dealership as well. I had to purchase the main engine harness protector and a small vapor hose not covered under my extended warranty. They also changed 4 other gaskets and 2 "O"rings on that connector pipe in your picture. Total repair time was 26 days.


Digger08

zazzn

Ron, I'd just say it's happening if you think it is. Can't hurt to have them change it.

They gave you a steal on the injectors, because 2 injectors cost me like 700$, I changed the intake manifold gaskets, the O rings, and the harness protector as you said. Also replaced all the Orings on the injectors since I took them out, (that was a fing challenge as there is a special SST for the Orings for the direct injection. Made my sst out of a pen cap lol).

Anyways, happy to report almost 1 month later all is well, I have heat and the car is wonderful to drive again. I'm just running water for now as I wanted to make sure that it wasn't leaking out my expensive super long life coolant by the gallon again.

Ho-ray! Now time for front breaks.

digger08

iTrader: (1)

I would at the very least check underneath the vehicle on the Transmission housing (both sides) and look for small trickles or stains of coolant leakage down the sides of the trans casing...this is a good indicator of the heat exchanger leak and was the same symptom for zazzn and myself.

My symptoms were:
coolant leaking down trans housing
slow coolant loss over time
strong coolant smell from front grill when up to operating temperature

I never had a loss of heat at any point in time.


Digger08

clarionguy

hmmm I wonder if I have the same issue

Symptoms:

1) Was filling the bottle up every couple of months - I recently stopped to see if I could find the source

2) Currently I have no heat at idle / cruising - If I maintain revs at 2600 RPM + heat comes through - When I cruise on 8th gear air blows cold

3) No smell of coolant anywhere in the engine compartment or interior - both cold air and hot air

4) Carefully took all plastics and under panels off to inspect around water pump / radiator for signs of pink - no luck yet (Water pump was replaced already in the past)

5) Was planning to see if I could do a pressure test but could not find an easy adapter for the ISF - Could we not use the overflow hose and pressurize it through there?

6) Tried running vehicle for 10-15 minutes with highest temperature and coolant bottle cap off to see if air block was the case - also revved car multiple times

7) Checked on transmission casing and found one random bolt on the passengers side had pink on the bottom of the bolt - around the area of the transmission was wet (unfortunately about 3-4 months ago I had the dealer drain / fill the transmission fluid - unsure if this dark wet is from wiping up the old fluid - but drain is on drivers side???

8) Maybe I am paranoid but the cable that runs on the drivers side of the transmission looked like it had some pink colour

9) Car has no over heating issues / temperatures of the coolant are normal.

10) Tried to touch both heat core hoses and it feels warm / hot - should this be almost burning hot?






Drivers side transmission cable pink isf





bolt having pink trace on passenger side of transmission isf

kickinazz

Samething is happening to my F. If u get a LED flashlight and piont it in between the 32 tag wire under engine cover and look down where the manifold connects to the shortblock, u should be able to see the pink fluid. So I got a hanger to try and collect some of the substance and sure enough, it is the crystalize fluid. So, if u're loosing fluid and ur water pump has been replaced. His is ur issue! This is not cool!!!!! I just made 80k. I have an 08 stock F and this should not be happening to my $60k+ Lexus. Water pump, touch screen, and other crazy recalls...this is unacceptable! This is not a BMW!

clarionguy

hmmm, I am still not 100% sure I have a leak.

I re-added coolant and have been fine for 1-2 months now ...

I did the whole running car to high temp until all coolant flowed - made sure to massage hoses with the cap off to get air bubbles out etc ...

It still never stays at "full" but has remained just above the low for the longest time ... maybe it is a slow leak..

Just bought the proper fitting for the coolant adapter so I could do my own pressurized test .. however I do not believe I will get too far with this ...

SoCalISF

I took a Bend-a-light flashlight and used a dentist's mirror to look under the throttle body. You can see the rear of the coolant transfer tube fairly easily. Appears I have just a bit of pink residue around the tube ('13 with 8500 miles).

Not too accessible but it appears that removing the intake tube will give you a much better line of sight. Am going to do it this weekend to get a good view with the Bend-a-light and a couple of different mirrors.

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

Going to check mine again. 2013 with a little over 8K miles. I've topped it off once and has very slowly gone down since. This sucks!

SoCalISF

I concur, it is not cool. If my car were out of warranty I would do the repair myself.

I have, however, been researching dealer techs. with F knowledge and experience, and happened upon one who is also LFA trained and qualified.

If that isn't a rarity I don't know what is. From what I understand this guy is top notch. Time will tell.

clarionguy

first I found a spot leaking around a small hose. thought yes finally found my lose of coolant.

then when I was doing my oil change I looked up and found a trickle of coolant and a crusty solidified area just under the water pump.

lastly I went to check my suspension components and looked by the catalytic converter and saw a load of coolant down the transmission.

soooo my question now is do I have three issues?

1. for sure the hose and clamp need replacing.

2. water pump

3. are there any chance that my leak from the water pump would trickle to the mid and back side of the drivers transmission? or is this for sure the build up in the intake manifold?

this is the second water pump on the car.

clarionguy

torxuvin

My leak was in the valley plate under the intake manifold. It's at least been going on the year I've had the car. (12k miles and a track weekend) Every time previously I was told that I just had a car that ran at a lower tank amount. They're cutting me a labor deal since part of the work is being done under the fuel recall.