What went wrong at the Dyno?
04-18-12, 05:19 PM
#1
What went wrong at the Dyno?
I finally made it to the Dyno last Saturday. I am a little confused by my results.
The goal was to retrieve a base line number and then try the two intakes that I have to record the gains from each.
1. The evening before I pulled the fuses and reset the ECU. The car didn't start on the first crank so I know the reset took.
2. I installed the stock intake and air filter along with the reset.
3. I drove the car across town a few times and made the 40+ mile highway drive to the Dyno after the reset.
4. The car sat for 30-45 minutes before getting strapped down.
5. Dynojet 424 Linx, CF: SAE Smoothing:5, 93 octane, 6th gear pulls, sport mode
7. 1st and 2nd pull with stock intake= 329 & 330 H.P.
8. 3rd and 4th pull with iCode silicone pipe and AFE filter=344 H.P.
The only cool down was the 2 minutes it took to switch intakes.
9. 5th and 6th pull with Takada intake= 327 H.P. and AFR in the 10s!!!!!!
Based on other peoples dynojet numbers my power seems low. I'm blaming that on the Dyno right now since I have nothing better to blame it on.
*My friends M5 went on after me for a baseline.....his text to me the next day....
Based on everyone's baseline on the M5 board it looks like my car is 30HP low on a dynojet*
I am pretty sure there is no issue with my car since I ran consistent 12.8s on a 40F degree night with no traction a few days before.
I do know the brakes on the Dyno where pretty smelly and the roller was burning hot after slowing my car down from 175mph over and over.
IDK, just ideas. The Dyno is only 6months old and the owner of the shop is very reputable. Maybe the 424 is a lower reading dynojet.
Really, I don't really car about the number but more about my inconclusive results.
What I am confused about is why the ECU freaked out with the Takada intake?
If the ECU needed time to adjust wouldn't that have been the case when switching to the iCode/AFE set up?
The pipe was heat soaked immediately. Could the rapid change in IAT have caused the ECU to dump fuel?
I left the Takada intake on the car and have driven it a few times since. The car feels fine and doesn't seem to be missing any power....then again I am accustom to more power so 15hp missing from a 330hp car may not be noticeable to me.
The goal was to retrieve a base line number and then try the two intakes that I have to record the gains from each.
1. The evening before I pulled the fuses and reset the ECU. The car didn't start on the first crank so I know the reset took.
2. I installed the stock intake and air filter along with the reset.
3. I drove the car across town a few times and made the 40+ mile highway drive to the Dyno after the reset.
4. The car sat for 30-45 minutes before getting strapped down.
5. Dynojet 424 Linx, CF: SAE Smoothing:5, 93 octane, 6th gear pulls, sport mode
7. 1st and 2nd pull with stock intake= 329 & 330 H.P.
8. 3rd and 4th pull with iCode silicone pipe and AFE filter=344 H.P.
The only cool down was the 2 minutes it took to switch intakes.
9. 5th and 6th pull with Takada intake= 327 H.P. and AFR in the 10s!!!!!!
Based on other peoples dynojet numbers my power seems low. I'm blaming that on the Dyno right now since I have nothing better to blame it on.
*My friends M5 went on after me for a baseline.....his text to me the next day....
Based on everyone's baseline on the M5 board it looks like my car is 30HP low on a dynojet*
I am pretty sure there is no issue with my car since I ran consistent 12.8s on a 40F degree night with no traction a few days before.
I do know the brakes on the Dyno where pretty smelly and the roller was burning hot after slowing my car down from 175mph over and over.
IDK, just ideas. The Dyno is only 6months old and the owner of the shop is very reputable. Maybe the 424 is a lower reading dynojet.
Really, I don't really car about the number but more about my inconclusive results.
What I am confused about is why the ECU freaked out with the Takada intake?
If the ECU needed time to adjust wouldn't that have been the case when switching to the iCode/AFE set up?
The pipe was heat soaked immediately. Could the rapid change in IAT have caused the ECU to dump fuel?
I left the Takada intake on the car and have driven it a few times since. The car feels fine and doesn't seem to be missing any power....then again I am accustom to more power so 15hp missing from a 330hp car may not be noticeable to me.
04-18-12, 05:43 PM
#2
YThe problem is you don't have enough runs on the dyno to confirm anything. I can tell you from experience that the first 2 runs on the dyno can usually be thrown out as they always read low. On the 3rd run they jump up some and then you need let the car cool down for a few minutes and dyno again and your numbers will again jump a bit for the next 2-3 runs until the car starts to heat soak.
To be consistent in your comparison just take the best run of your 2 or 3 runs after the cool down and you'll be on your way. The reason I don't use the runs prior to the cool down is because they tend to be the runs that the car is adjusting itself and typically the runs after the cool down are good because the car has adjusted and seem pretty consistent until heat soak sets in. So in the end you should have about 5-6 runs in for the baseline and for each mod you are testing thereafter. Depending on how well you know the Dyno operator this could be expensive as they typically only give folks 3 runs.
^That is how you want to dyno for a solid baseline and for each change made thereafter preferably on the same day.
To be consistent in your comparison just take the best run of your 2 or 3 runs after the cool down and you'll be on your way. The reason I don't use the runs prior to the cool down is because they tend to be the runs that the car is adjusting itself and typically the runs after the cool down are good because the car has adjusted and seem pretty consistent until heat soak sets in. So in the end you should have about 5-6 runs in for the baseline and for each mod you are testing thereafter. Depending on how well you know the Dyno operator this could be expensive as they typically only give folks 3 runs.
^That is how you want to dyno for a solid baseline and for each change made thereafter preferably on the same day.
Last edited by caymandive; 04-18-12 at 07:26 PM.
04-18-12, 07:18 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
^ yeah as caymandive said and from what I've seen also it seem it takes about 5-6 runs to get a good reading on a dyno.
Were you running the dry AFE filter or the wet one?
Wanna sell me your iCode??
Thanks for sharing your info
Were you running the dry AFE filter or the wet one?
Wanna sell me your iCode??
Thanks for sharing your info
04-18-12, 09:20 PM
#4
Caymandive- Thank you for the input. I went to the Dyno on a Saturday and it was really busy. I would say it was especially busy since the nice weather just hit up here in the northeast. Next chance I get I am going to take a weekday afternoon off of work so I can follow your suggestion. I'm hopping that on a weekday I can get the time I need to get an accurate baseline.
DCoolBeans- I have the wet AFE....it was in the car when I purchased it. I actually prefer the iCode pipe because it is not susceptible to heat soak.
I have a brand new Takada intake that I may be willing to part with though.
DCoolBeans- I have the wet AFE....it was in the car when I purchased it. I actually prefer the iCode pipe because it is not susceptible to heat soak.
I have a brand new Takada intake that I may be willing to part with though.
04-18-12, 11:15 PM
#5
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YThe problem is you don't have enough runs on the dyno to confirm anything. I can tell you from experience that the first 2 runs on the dyno can usually be thrown out as they always read low. On the 3rd run they jump up some and then you need let the car cool down for a few minutes and dyno again and your numbers will again jump a bit for the next 2-3 runs until the car starts to heat soak.
To be consistent in your comparison just take the best run of your 2 or 3 runs after the cool down and you'll be on your way. The reason I don't use the runs prior to the cool down is because they tend to be the runs that the car is adjusting itself and typically the runs after the cool down are good because the car has adjusted and seem pretty consistent until heat soak sets in. So in the end you should have about 5-6 runs in for the baseline and for each mod you are testing thereafter. Depending on how well you know the Dyno operator this could be expensive as they typically only give folks 3 runs.
^That is how you want to dyno for a solid baseline and for each change made thereafter preferably on the same day.
To be consistent in your comparison just take the best run of your 2 or 3 runs after the cool down and you'll be on your way. The reason I don't use the runs prior to the cool down is because they tend to be the runs that the car is adjusting itself and typically the runs after the cool down are good because the car has adjusted and seem pretty consistent until heat soak sets in. So in the end you should have about 5-6 runs in for the baseline and for each mod you are testing thereafter. Depending on how well you know the Dyno operator this could be expensive as they typically only give folks 3 runs.
^That is how you want to dyno for a solid baseline and for each change made thereafter preferably on the same day.
04-19-12, 04:47 AM
#6
I'm asking this to you specifically because you seem to know your stuff about everything in this forum but dynos specifically. I did 3 Dyno runs and got some dissapointing numbers with my JoeZ exhaust. (compared to many others) could it be that I turned my engine off between Dyno runs?
04-19-12, 07:26 AM
#7
I've dynoed my car on three occasions. Each was three runs. When I arrived at the shop, the car was turned of and we waited about 45 mins. for it to cool off. Then drove it on the dyno, took off the engine cover, and turned on the the garage floor fan. We waited about 30 mins or so between each run to let the car cool. All runs showed pretty much the same info, but the second or third run always, in my case, produced the best results.
Lou
Lou
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04-19-12, 11:03 AM
#9
During my dyno session there where other people waiting to have there cars hit the rollers. I think it was in the dyno operates best interest to get my car done and move on. Rightfully so, he let me do a few extra pulls.
My real concern was why my car was consitant for 2 pulls, made a consistent 14 HP gain for the next 2 pulls w/ intake but then freaked out with the 3rd intake.
Last edited by RCB; 04-19-12 at 07:20 PM.
04-19-12, 03:12 PM
#10
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but I can assure you that any exhaust upgrade on the IS-F will yield power as this is the biggest restriction on the car.
So headers exhaust and filter should make a noticeable difference
So headers exhaust and filter should make a noticeable difference
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