obby

iTrader: (9)

^ did you ever get it install yet..? please update us. need a set of my own but want to make sure everything is good.

Heather558

I don't know if I'll ever complain again about tire/thread wear. My 02 M3 needed new rear tires every 5,000 miles and I barely drove the car! I wasn't racing either. I even got a free set from Firestone because they couldn't believe the bridgestones didn't last. If my ISF gets 15-20,000 miles per tire then I'm a happy camper.

RCB

iTrader: (18)

I'm running Michelin pilot super sport F:255/35ZR19 R:305/30R19 on stock suspension. My next mod was to get some KW v3s and Figs Mega Arms. My rears sit nice but the front has a wheel gap and looks wrong. I want to get it sitting flush but really don't want to eat through those pricy tires nor do I want to keep swapping tires on and off my rims. I think I better consult with Figs to make sure I can get this right the first time. I really don't want to mess around with poor alignment.

ROK

Just lowered mine on KW3s. Front camber side to side is off and I'd like to reduce it. Even from factory it was off side to side.

Is this what I need?

http://www.circuitmotorsports.net/sp.../i-519340.aspx

yjk1975

You should look into Figs bushing.

ROK

that has nothing to do with front camber adjustment or the lackthereof - thx tho

anyone who hasn't had their alignment checked should by a good private race shop. even brand new cars. you'll learn a thing or two.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

We have upper control arm camber bushings.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=197



We can also sell the SPC the issue however, especially with this chassis, is upper ball joint clearance.
Most tire wear issues up front are toe related as camber is only a measure of the wheel angle when aimed straight. On the steering end of a car the tires will move onto the caster plane when steering, which is steep at 8-9 degrees when lowered. So camber is only part of the story. The deflection on the LCA is more critical to tread wear, that is why we suggest the stiffer #2 bushing for the LCA.

ROK

appreciate you piping in..


is your bushing here a substitute for the SPC ball joint or a supplement? circuit motorsport confirmed that the SPC ball joints will work fine on stock or lowered height ISFs. and it looks to be their ball joint can allow for more precise adjustment? and also adjustability on car after installation?

what's the pro/con?

jkeifer3

Couldn't deal with the tire wear. Sold the car.

ROK

what i've come to learn is that since the ISF comes with pretty much zilch factory adjustment, to do it right for most street/weekend racer use along the lowering front...

-decent set of adjustable coilovers like Kw3s
-FIGS lower kit (race LCA, bushing, toe link)
-this THING now as i've come to learn

else you're going to not be able to dial in decent camber/toe. that's just about $4500 in parts alone. nothing out of whack with other similarly powered/priced vehicles. honestly, it's quite easy given there's no fancy electronics involved.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

it would be a substitute. The SPC adds about .5" on top of the upper control arm. KW's depending on how low you go, may hit bumpstop and in that case the ball joint will contact the upper inn fender. There is little room between the OEM arm and the tunnel made for it to travel. I like the SPC on moderately lowered cars with stiffer spring rates, but its a narrow window. KW likes soft spring rates because of their dual flow characteristics being able to catch the shock on rapid fluid travel. In any case we run -2.2 degrees of front camber and have not put the upper bushing in and inner tread wear in under control with a neutral toe alignment.

ROK

yea but again my main concern or remedy desired is i want side to side front camber to be even. it's off by a degree or so. unmolested stock setup and now on kw3s. when going straight there's a possibility of a slight pull. i understand on turns it doesnt' amtter so much.

i'll place the order. thanks for the help.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

sounds like to ride height issue to me. Both camber and caster gain on compression. Are you sure the ride height is optimized with the new shocks?

ULTSISF

iTrader: (2)

Wow I'm on the same boat. What's the recommended alignment specs when lowered w/o camber kits. My front camber is at -2.2 now my toe is within specs (only green on my sheet) but I noticed my steering a bit to the left when going straight hate it.... Can anyone confirm? I'm about 2 inches all around

Ps. According to the tech he couldn't get the steering right at 12 o"clock. It annoys me going Tuesday again, any help would be much appreciated.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

There is no reason he should not be able to get the front centered other than shop time (lifetime alignment shops often use a time-based cutoff for "good enough".)
Also keep in mind that the rear of this car is multilink and plays a huge roll in the overall steering of the car. So it will depend on the entire alignment, not just the front toe settings as to how the car pulls one way or another. That is the reason why suggest our essential kit for lowering. It includes the rear LCA for camber adjustment, rear toe link for reduced bumpsteer as well as infinite toe adjustment to really hit the numbers, and the front LCA bushing for stabilized front toe under loading. Often times its not the gross amount of adjustment you have, but what you actually get the numbers to. The "green" should never be accepted as within specs because there are not factory specs for a lowered IS-F.

My suggestions for 1" front lowered F. On the rear a .5" lowering is typical but really any setting rear because these numbers are targets on a curve and typically the camber setting and toe settings are the balance figure for a good bump curve.

Front Toe 0.0 to -0.1 for tread wear and +0.1 to +0.2 for slightly better turn in at the track.
The front of the car will naturally toe in under compression so this toe out setting is a countermeasure.

Rear toe 0.05 to 0.1
Rear camber -2.2 , same with front depending on drop. Caster angle increases to around 8.5-9.5 depending on drop.

You can make the car oversteer or understeer simple by adjusting toe in the rear. And if the cross toe in the rear is not equal and the rear ride height is not equal, you can have more or less bumpsteer in the back causing it to dogtrack.

Bottom line, check your ride height on the rack with shock length if possible. Balance the toe side to side and do it with the driver in the car.