badboylex

Where can I buy this from.

Bulls23337

iTrader: (2)

Help! A few weeks ago I installed new rotors and pads on the front axle. I discovered loud grinding noises when turning the steering wheel when driving it initially. I took the wheels off and looked at the rotors and noticed they were scraping on the inner side of the rotor and brake pad by seeing circular gouges in both the rotors and pads. I removed the pads and calipers and re-seated the rotors again and reinstalled the calipers, pads, and wheels and went for another drive. Same problem happening and now I am stumped. I removed the brake reservoir cap during this process, but did not bleed the brakes. Could that be the problem? Obviously I would need to buy new rotors and pads to replace these gouged ones, but would like to get to the bottom of the problem before wasting money on another set of new rotors and pads. This was my first time doing this on the F (I did do a pad change only 2 years ago with no issues) but also have done several other rotor and pad changes on other vehicles. Thanks in advance!

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

So the rotor is physically moving side to side inside the caliper and contacting the caliper body under load? Assuming the rotors themselves are not the problem (may have got the wrong part or something silly) then it sounds like your front wheel bearings may be the issue.

-Matt M.

SubOrbital

Did you remove all rust from the hubs where they interface with the rotor hat?

diegoleyla

You might have the rear rotors and not the front ones. I dont know the exact specs the thickness should be but i know the rear are smaller diameter and a little thicker. Just an idea..

Bulls23337

iTrader: (2)

I ordered Raybestos rotor P/N 980675 and verified on their website and others that it fits the IS F front. I also compared this rotor with the old rotor I removed. I'd be surprised of a front wheel bearing issue if I didn't have this issue before changing the rotors.

Yes, I sure did. One of the first things I do is take a wire brush and air drill to get off rust.

Thanks. I definitely checked the rotor size and specs visually with the new and old rotor.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

Can you provide any photos or more information? The more you provide, the easier it will be to try and diagnose. Can you see damage on the caliper body or surrounding ball joints? Where exactly is the rotor making contact?

Have you checked the wheel bearings for play?

-Matt M.

Bulls23337

iTrader: (2)

Hey Matt, appreciate the help. I don't have any photos. Probably won't for a couple of weeks as I will be on work travel out of the country tomorrow. I can tell you that both rotors have scrape marks going all around the rotor directionally on the sides facing in towards the engine. Same for the pads. I can also see some corresponding scrape marks on the inner side of caliper from scraping the rotor. The front side of the rotor and pads facing away from the engine has no damage.

I have not checked the wheel bearings for play. Would it be possible for both to go bad at the same time, especially during a rotor and pad change? And that I did not have this issue before?

tsx2isF

Great diy!!

Bulls23337

iTrader: (2)

bumping this up

newguy1354

Sounds like bent shields to me. (Shown in the 3rd to last photo of this original post). Between the rotor and the knuckle (where the caliper mounts to) is the thin metal shield that is easy to bend and will make that noise and damage.
You can check it with just the wheel off. Visually and with your hand, carefully follow it around the rotor. Making sure there is about a 1/4 of inch space between it and the rotor.

invius

Had never replaced brakes/pads before, but decided to give it a go with this write-up. Had a buddy help who is very competent with cars. It was unbelievably easy. Between the Rotors (~450 on eBay for 4 Brembo Rotors and another $125-150 for StopTech Street pads, I was out around $600 for parts). A few odds and ends rounded it up to around $625. This is less than a third of what the dealer wanted, and took us right around 3 hours and we took our time. The best piece of advice is make sure you have the 8x1.25 bolt that is mentioned. Once you have the caliper off screw the bolt in to the open hole on the rotor and it will pop right off. It was like magic. Thanks Cayman for taking the time to put these write ups together, excellent work!!!