ISFSteve

Even though there are drastic differences in driving styles, hearing someone either being told by a Dealership or think they need to replace rotors at under 20k is insane. How many people would have issues if they thought they would be having this mess while looking at the car at the Dealership while starring at the 60k sticker price. I just don't feel most people really have to replace at that low mileage but with all the stories floating around, there is a lot of people being paranoid.

avgj0F

iTrader: (2)

If rotors are still within specs, do bedding the brake!

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

96817isf

well i hvae 18k on my car and my rotors are starting to look wavy plus i need to change my pads ne way so imma do both rotors and pads same time then when i have the money i goin change the rear pads asap. that way i no need worry bout the dust stiuation from the factory

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Send me your old rotors. I bet they're not even 15% worn. I don't care what they look like, and I'm just going to abuse them at the track anyway.

I'm really beginning to understand how people spend so much money on maintenance. Changing rotors and oil based on how it looks is pretty pricey.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Three track weekends on my rotors with Carbotech XP-12s and they still measured 29.6mm. Sure they're cracked to all get out (well, still technically within limits according to Lexus/Brembo), but hardly worn at all with some very aggressive pads (they snap you on the belts with a very light touch).

I'm pretty convinced you are right. Most of these people are getting ripped off.

UCrazyKid

I love this picture. That is tracking done right!

vraa

iTrader: (2)

This thread should be stickied lol

BTW Lobux I will have tow sets of fronts and rears, you want them? I will have one set in a week and another in a few more weeks (used of course)

vraa

iTrader: (2)

I am going to order the following from Rock Auto

CENTRIC Part # 30913650 StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads
Front

CENTRIC Part # 30913660 StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads
Rear

CENTRIC Part # 12844163 Cross Drilled OEM Brake Rotor-Preferred
Rear

CENTRIC Part # 12844164 Cross Drilled OEM Brake Rotor-Preferred
Front

Total is 500$

Anything else I need to order for my mechanic to do the full brake job?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

^ No, you've got it covered.

vraa

iTrader: (2)

I found out the Centrics are made in china

I am trying to find where the StopTech ones are made

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

StopTech sells Centric. No need to search, it's on their website.

LovinMyISF

Hey Everyone,

I've got a 2008 ISF Black Obsidian on Ivory and have been loving it. It's time for a brake pad change and I've picked up a set of Hawk HPS for the front but completely confused about what to put on the back.. don't get why Hawk never made the plates for the rears. Ideally, I would like the same stopping power as the HPS or Brembo OE but with way less dust. Tired of cleaning and polishing out pitting.

As for the HPS, i was told by a local aftermarket parts outlet that the HPS basically dust nearly the same as the Ceramics but it's mainly a different colored dust.. light grey vs. bronze dust. Is that really the case? I do like the extra stopper power though and not having to deal with the working temperature of the Ceramics for the fronts.

What options do I have for the rear pads????

96817isf

i just changed mine to the set up that u have..the front is easy to do with the help of figs page on how to change out the rotors and stuff...i never changed out the rear casue u really don't need to due to the fact that only 20% of yr braking is from the back i just changed the rear pads and they are just fine....it only take about 20 min do the both sides in the back because when u pull out the two pins that holds the pads in u just need to pull back the old pad and slip in the new one...i dunno how long it would take u change the rear rotors so have fun with that... the total time it took me (on the ground with only 2 stands) was about 3 hours from start to finish... the longest part for me was the fact that i never have a aftermarket jack so it took for ever to just get my car on the stands.. hope this helps

riboflavin

good info. thanks.

vraa

iTrader: (2)

I didn't go the centric route
I get with Project MU slotted rotors and project mu ns pads
I am probably going to go with the same pads on is-f#2, trying to work with girodisc and some CL vendors so we can get some custom floating rotors made (hoooooopefully before #2 needs rotors)