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Sticking with Mobil 1 unless there's a really compelling reason not to. The Supra gets Red Line, but that's only because it's a turbo and turbos are very hard on oil.
Sticking with Mobil 1 unless there's a really compelling reason not to. The Supra gets Red Line, but that's only because it's a turbo and turbos are very hard on oil.
Thanks for the update..!!!
Lance does mean Mobil Super 5000 (not Mobil 1 - synthetic)
The only oil you lose on a filter change is what is in the filter housing. This is true regardless of engine model. I have also stopped doing the mid mileage filter change and it's pretty obvious from the results I'm not having filtering problems. The one thing I am concerned about is what appears to be unusual wear patterns on some of my cam lobes. I am considering whether the filter change might be a good idea again.
At any rate, just changing the filter and topping off with fresh oil gives the additive package a boost. It also raises total base number just a little bit (it's only a 10% volume change) so you get a little insurance against oil failures.
lobuxracer,
I've read that you can attest to the filter's capability to remain functional after 10k miles and I was wondering if you've come up with a conclusive decision about when to change the filter based off the aforementioned unusual wear patterns on some of the cam lobes?
My oil interval is currently around 5k and I've decided to let it go for another 5k until the next change. I would like to know if it's a good idea to change the filter or leave it for the meantime. I'm presently awaiting my blackstone test kit to arrive.
Received my lab results. I'm using Mobil 1 European formula 0W/40 which comes highly recommended on BTOG with a factory filter. I made the mistake of not warming up the engine before taking the oil sample which I noted on the application when I sent in the oil. A Fumoto oil drain valve is also installed on the oil pan and has been on for over 20k miles.
Received my lab results. I'm using Mobil 1 European formula 0W/40 which comes highly recommended on BTOG with a factory filter. I made the mistake of not warming up the engine before taking the oil sample which I noted on the application when I sent in the oil. A Fumoto oil drain valve is also installed on the oil pan and has been on for over 20k miles.
I'd drain that oil and put Mobil 1 5w-30 in it. Your iron is WAY higher than mine, even during break in. Why are you running 40 weight in a street driven engine?
When I was doing research on which oils to choose, I remember reading that the euro 0w40 shears down to around a 30 weight. I don't have a source but that was rationale to using it. Also, the cost and shortage of German Castrol 0w30 had an influence too.
That's not supported by your UOA. 30 weight is very near 10 cSt at 100C. Your sample is on the mark for 40 weight at 12.36 cSt. I would not choose a heavier oil for the F mostly because of the long cold cycle the engine experiences from an oil temperature perspective. I've seen it take 30 minutes in normal street driving to get to the 3 bar mark on the oil temperature, and 3 bars is minimum for thrashing on the engine.
Any 0w-30 has to have a VI modifier. 5w-30 synthetic does not, so it will run longer and maintain viscosity better. At least that's the theory. UOA seems to support it as well.
Looks like all is well from a wear perspective, but the change in Mobil 1's formula is not so good.
Hey Lance, so just to clarify, you're running roughly 12k miles on the mobile 1 5w-30 and changing the filter about midway, with a top off of oil when you change the filter? What is a safe filter AND oil interval change based on your experience if I typically replace both at once with OEM filters and mobile 1 5w-30?
06-19-13, 02:20 PM
