jglass4788

So I just completed my starter replacement, and both heat shields have been fixed. I can guarantee anyone viewing this thread...this is the issue.

jglass4788

I removed both drivers and passenger side heat shields. And they both had the same issue (the integrated washer moves within the shield). So it doesn't matter how tight you crank the bolts down, it is still going to rattle.

I simply took Exhaust glue, and glue'd down all 3 (on both sides). and reinstalled. I preferred this method, as clearly there is an issue with this design, so replacing them with new parts might only lead to the same end result (metal clunking sound).

Also, after seeing the issue....it is clear to me now, why Lexus would say - "normal". They know the issue, and they also know that the labor involved doesn't outweigh the repair, since there is no threat of damage to any components (it is just annoying as hell!!).

Long and short-

The car is back together, and it sounds absolutely fantastic! Purrs like a kitten............

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

So why does mine get louder when I remove the oil fill cap?

kmhunsaker

Thank you JGlass for sharing. I believe that is the exact same sound I have. Seems completely harmless now that I see your video demonstration.

Joker4096

iTrader: (2)

The world may never know.

BLKLBL

2008 ISF w/97,000kms and mine is also making this intermittent metal banging/clunking sound. Glad I fund this thread, it was a good read. I may try to troubleshoot this when I have time, but in the meantime, good to know its not something serious. (and can still daily drive the car)

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

This thread is back from the dead. Today, I got new insight into the root cause of MY specific issue from a Lexus Europe tech posting a reply to my YouTube video of the noise. Lexus Europe has had a Tech Bulletin with a replacement part available since 2016. The revised part is available from Lexus in the US. Removing the old one and installing the new one is a pretty big PITA because the front timing cover has to come off. Suck. Big. Time. Still, it would be really nice to start the engine and never hear the random clatter again! Here's the Tech Bulletin from Europe. I found it on a Russian Lexus forum.

FNSSESPORT

This is gold! Thank you for this! I find it really interesting why this would be a TSB in the EU, but not N. America, where I'm sure far more of the models implicated have been sold.
-R

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

More information - after perusing all the various seals, o-rings, and other consumables, I have a parts list for this task. It's not small. It includes everything you would need for a valve lash inspection because you're going to be taking off all that stuff just to get to the timing cover. You might have to remove the intake manifold as well - the FSM says yes, but I am doubtful. Regardless, if you have the valley plate leak, you're going to find it if you do this task. At any rate, here's the parts list including the part identified in the European TSB:

13507-31020 = 2 - Chain Sub-Assy, No. 2
13506-38030 = 2 - Chain Sub-Assy
13550-38020 = 1 - RH Tensioner Assy, Chain, No. 2
13560-38021 = 1 - LH Tensioner Assy, Chain, No. 3
13540-38020 = 1 - RH Tensioner Assy, Chain No.1
13540-38042 = 1 - LH Tensioner Assy, Chain No.1
13559-38030 = 1 - RH Slipper, Chain Tensioner
13559-38040 = 1 - LH Slipper, Chain Tensioner
13561-38060 = 1 - RH Damper, Chain Vibration, No. 1
13561-38070 = 1 - LH Damper, Chain Vibration, No. 1
90301-92004 = 2 - Ring, O(For Cam Timing Control Motor)
90311-42036 = 1 - Seal, Oil(For Timing gear Case or Timing Chain Case)
90301-35006 = 1 - Ring, O(For Timing Gear Case, Lower)
16341-38030 = 2 - Gasket, Water Outlet
16325-38020 = 1 - Gasket, Water Inlet Housing No. 1
96761-35035 = 2 - Ring, O(For Water Inlet)
16031-38010 = 1 - Water Inlet Sub-Assy, w/Thermostat
15193-38010 = 1 - Gasket, Oil Pump
11193-38030 = 8 - Gasket Spark Plug Tube
23224-38010 = 2 - Gasket Fuel Pump Spacer
23915-46011 = 2 - Insulator Fuel Pump
23279-74010 = 4 - Gasket Fuel Pressure (Pulsation Damper)
11229-38030 = 2 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 3 (Valve cover oil filter)
11159-0P010 = 2 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 1
11159-0S010 = 2 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 2
90301-A0029 = 4 - O Ring (Oil Drain Pipe)
11213-38060 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 1 RH
11214-38040 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 2 LH
90301-09028 = 1 - Oil Tube O-Ring (dipstick tube)
90210-08045 = 6 - Washer, Seal
15678-46020 = 2 - Filter, Oil Control Valve RH & LH

Some might call this overkill. Depending on your mileage, it might not be all bad to replace the timing chains, slippers, and tensioners. I would suggest doing a leak down test before starting this adventure to be sure the basic health of the engine is good.

BLKLBL

I recently noticed my clanking is getting worse, pretty much exactly like in your video, Lobuxracer.

So it seems as though the timing chain tensioner may use oil pressure to dampen the chain slap, and when the engine oil is cold, the tensioner is unable to pressure up fully and stay that way. I have noticed that the noise is less common after I have completed a oil change with fresh oil. This has me wondering, is there a specific engine oil anyone is using that has proven to reduce this noise?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I have only experimented with weight. I will be changing to Renewable Lubricants in my IS F (the GS F has been running it for some time now) so it might make some difference, but I won't actually know because I'll be installing the new parts in two weeks. I can say running 0w-30 Mobil 1 reduced the noise initially, but over time it came back as it always has.

A few days ago I was re-reading some posts on oil analysis, and one of the comments from Daniel's analyst of my oil was high nickel, could be cam chain wear among lots of other things. It really made me wonder because the wear numbers on the GS F are dramatically lower, and not on a linear scale.

jat0223

iTrader: (1)

In mine it's backwards. It gets louder with new oil. After a few miles it's unnoticeable. Mine also got better when I switched to red line oil.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I have run Red Line in my Supra forever. The tested load capacity is a little disappointing. I plan to use Renewable Lubricants PCMO in all my cars (Supra is still on stands waiting for me to finish installing a new oil pump) including the Supra simply because it has an extremely high load capacity and maintains its strength even at 275F where most oils are losing double digit percentages, PCMO loses only a fraction of a percentage point. The wear numbers coming from the GS F support everything Daniel said is good about it. Much better control over fuel dilution. I am almost tempted to just try it, but honestly at this point I think there is wear and the cam chains are not in the best condition so replacing them all will be a plus.

Jwconeil

Shame this isn’t a dealer recognized issue here. This repair is deeper than I feel comfortable doing on my own.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you still have powertrain warranty (getting pretty unlikely though) you could try taking the Euro TSB to your dealer and asking WTF?