Engine Metal Clicking Sound..Help!!
#289
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Mine doesn't care about oil. Fresh or old, it will make the noise, although I have not noticed it for the last month or so. Could just be I'm driving off quickly and it is masked by engine speed. Still have not had time to check the valve lash and ensure it is still good, but I normally like to do a few WOT runs to burn off any carbon on the valves before checking last. it's easy to set them too tight if there is any carbon between the valve face and the seat. That quickly turns into a burned valve. AMHIK.
#290
Lexus Fanatic
no. I would simply order the part online and just take it to them and bend over on the labor . That has been my new MO for a while. Just take the stuff in and let them nail me on labor
#291
Driver School Candidate
Hello everyone, new member here. I recently purchased an 08 ISF with 35k miles on it and for the first week everything was great, like a new car. That is, until I decided to turn on my A/C for the first time and *BAM*, engine starts making the ticking noise at idle that matches exactly to all of the youtube video I have seen. Of course I immediately took it to the Lexus dealer here and they state that the noise is "normal". While it does comfort me knowing there seem to be many others with this noise, I am still nervous about having it even if it has yet to cause any catastrophic engine failures. My noise is present with the A/C on or off, and the engine must be fully warmed up for about 15 min before it appears. It seems to completely go away above 1500 rpm. It is most annoying in a drive-thru or similar situation where the noise is amplified. I tried to do some investigating myself as to where it was coming from, and I have listed directly to the lifters on both sides and other than the normal consistent ticking, they seem to not be making the noise. The noise is loudest when under the car and on the drivers side of the engine near the cat. I took it to a muffler shop and they checked out the cats which were found to be in like-new condition. To those who say their noise went away after a rebuild, that doesn't really help considering so much is moved/changed during a rebuild. The noise could have been fixed by moving something not even related to an internal engine component. If anyone finds any new information, or gets Lexus to open their eyes to this widespread problem, please post back.
#292
Driver School Candidate
Thought I would update everybody. I have taken the car to two different Lexus dealerships now. The second one was much more helpful. I was able to speak directly to the master tech and he brought out his computer and ran a complete diagnostic right in front of me, showing me everything. Everything was running well within spec. The noise is coming from the drivers side high pressure fuel pump. The IS-F uses two mechanical high pressure fuel pumps with a third electronic pump in the tank. The one on the drivers side operates at over 800 psi. The noise comes from a spring that is inside the fuel pump that over time (seems to be after 20k-30k miles) gets worn and creates a tapping/knocking as its opening and closing the valve inside the pump (similar to the noise you would hear when the engine has a worn valve spring). The pressure inside the pump increases as the rpms increase, and the noise disappears. For those that have the noise, warm up the car as usual so the noise appears, then let it sit. Listen to the intensity/frequency of the noise. Now rev the engine close to red line and listen. You should notice that the noise gets louder/more frequent for a short time after.
TL/DR:
Have fun driving your IS-F, rest assured everything is fine.
TL/DR:
Have fun driving your IS-F, rest assured everything is fine.
The following users liked this post:
ISFHEMS (01-03-17)
#293
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
There is no noise from a worn valve spring. Either they work, or they break and cause very expensive damage to the engine. So the argument is, this noise is related to the HPFP? Why would we have members who have swapped these pumps and the noise stayed on the same side?
I don't buy the "worn spring" argument at all. I fully understand the fuel system, and I know in detail how all the pumps work. A worn spring would cause the pump to fail, not be noisy. It would also make the noise consistently whenever the engine idles. Mine does not. It only makes the noise on cold cycle. Once the engine is at temperature, no abnormal noise at all.
I don't buy the "worn spring" argument at all. I fully understand the fuel system, and I know in detail how all the pumps work. A worn spring would cause the pump to fail, not be noisy. It would also make the noise consistently whenever the engine idles. Mine does not. It only makes the noise on cold cycle. Once the engine is at temperature, no abnormal noise at all.
#294
Driver School Candidate
There is no noise from a worn valve spring. Either they work, or they break and cause very expensive damage to the engine. So the argument is, this noise is related to the HPFP? Why would we have members who have swapped these pumps and the noise stayed on the same side?
I don't buy the "worn spring" argument at all. I fully understand the fuel system, and I know in detail how all the pumps work. A worn spring would cause the pump to fail, not be noisy. It would also make the noise consistently whenever the engine idles. Mine does not. It only makes the noise on cold cycle. Once the engine is at temperature, no abnormal noise at all.
I don't buy the "worn spring" argument at all. I fully understand the fuel system, and I know in detail how all the pumps work. A worn spring would cause the pump to fail, not be noisy. It would also make the noise consistently whenever the engine idles. Mine does not. It only makes the noise on cold cycle. Once the engine is at temperature, no abnormal noise at all.
#296
Driver School Candidate
#297
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ca
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I am glad to hear that. New to the group and have a graphite gray 2008 completely stock. Bought it with 72,000 miles and snagged a 2 year/24k warranty as well. All included (with tax) 33k out the door... not too bad. The noise wasn't too bothersome until I realized how loud it really was idling in between cars in a parking lot or in a garage. The tapping goes away quickly with RPM's but MAN it is a little loud for comfort to the unknowing ear. The fuel pump explanation makes sense and that is what I am going to tell myself so I can get over it... Too late to turn back now... besides, it feels good to finally feel excited to drive to work every morning.
#298
Driver School Candidate
Gentlemen....
I also have the "metal clunking sound" coming from my 2008 IS-F. I have numerous other small issues that I'm "going through"(exhaust manifold crack, starter motor replacement).
I had to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold and noticed it was cracked, so I'm working with a welder to have it repaired. Since the subframe is out, I decided that I should check the drivers side manifold for cracks as well. And BINGO!!!...I noticed right away that the drivers side heat shield was loose (the bolts are tight--all 3, but the heat shield still moves around within the bolted area). I hit it a few times with my hand and immediately recognized the sound.
Here is the bad.... It is unlikely that you can repair this, unless you have the complete subframe pulled (basically you have to access the headers).
Video and pictures to follow.....
I also have the "metal clunking sound" coming from my 2008 IS-F. I have numerous other small issues that I'm "going through"(exhaust manifold crack, starter motor replacement).
I had to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold and noticed it was cracked, so I'm working with a welder to have it repaired. Since the subframe is out, I decided that I should check the drivers side manifold for cracks as well. And BINGO!!!...I noticed right away that the drivers side heat shield was loose (the bolts are tight--all 3, but the heat shield still moves around within the bolted area). I hit it a few times with my hand and immediately recognized the sound.
Here is the bad.... It is unlikely that you can repair this, unless you have the complete subframe pulled (basically you have to access the headers).
Video and pictures to follow.....
#300
Gentlemen....
I also have the "metal clunking sound" coming from my 2008 IS-F. I have numerous other small issues that I'm "going through"(exhaust manifold crack, starter motor replacement).
I had to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold and noticed it was cracked, so I'm working with a welder to have it repaired. Since the subframe is out, I decided that I should check the drivers side manifold for cracks as well. And BINGO!!!...I noticed right away that the drivers side heat shield was loose (the bolts are tight--all 3, but the heat shield still moves around within the bolted area). I hit it a few times with my hand and immediately recognized the sound.
Here is the bad.... It is unlikely that you can repair this, unless you have the complete subframe pulled (basically you have to access the headers).
Video and pictures to follow.....
I also have the "metal clunking sound" coming from my 2008 IS-F. I have numerous other small issues that I'm "going through"(exhaust manifold crack, starter motor replacement).
I had to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold and noticed it was cracked, so I'm working with a welder to have it repaired. Since the subframe is out, I decided that I should check the drivers side manifold for cracks as well. And BINGO!!!...I noticed right away that the drivers side heat shield was loose (the bolts are tight--all 3, but the heat shield still moves around within the bolted area). I hit it a few times with my hand and immediately recognized the sound.
Here is the bad.... It is unlikely that you can repair this, unless you have the complete subframe pulled (basically you have to access the headers).
Video and pictures to follow.....