clarionguy

So I have had these on my car for sometime and played around with the ride heights.

At first I went for a better stance. Then I decided to measure and stay within the "recommended ranges".

However when I follow their manual which states 105-120 mm (Center bottom bolt to adjuster) the car in the back looks slammed! measured to 120mm
The grip, performance, ride quality is amazing though?

When I had it to fit a finger in the gap the car was too stiff in the rear / traction lost etc etc. Plus to do this it was compressing the main spring.

I am confused?

I have the front dead in the center of the range 290-310 mm (I have it at 300 mm) It is a bit too high.

One thing I noticed is that their B measurement which is center wheel hub to fender is much greater in the back 315 - 340 mm. Total difference is 25 mm. But A diffference is 120-105 mm = 15mm?

Maybe the manual is incorrect and it should be 105-130 mm?

KW Coilover Kit V3 Lexus IS-F
Lowering
Front Lowering: 0.2" to 1.2"
Rear Lowering: 0.2" to 1.2"




I looked at other manuals for other cars with KW V3 and it seems A and B differences are similar ...

Justind27

iTrader: (6)

Subscribed, I'll be getting these from figs in the near future.

MisterSkiz

iTrader: (2)

Not sure about your question.

1) Your wheels are on backwards.
2) Don't lower it too much if you don't have aftermarket lower control arms, etc from FIGS, you wont be able to correct the camber.

clarionguy

Wow, good catch on the wheels.

I meant that I am at the MIN lowering range as recommended and it seems too low!?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I've never seen a worse method of measuring ride height. Fender arches are terrible reference points. The factory (rightly) uses suspension bolt height from ground. Anything else, even measuring the installed height of the spring, is just guessing. I've tried them all, nothing beats setting ride height by the actual suspension.

Justind27

iTrader: (6)

Cmon

clarionguy

With the weight distribution you are right. I'm not going to get it that great.

Unfortunately I only measured from center bolt of the bottom strut to the top of the adjuster.

128 mm back and 292 mm front

And this is what the alignment shows. Time to maybe look at those other accessories to have some adjustments for camber.

Justind27

iTrader: (6)

Figs is the place!!!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

It's not magic. The tools can be bought fairly cheaply when the only adjustable parameter is toe.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The camber numbers are all pretty good. I wouldn't bother with anything other than evening them out. Corner weights would be very helpful for figuring out if your camber numbers are weight related or not. Still, there's nothing over 2.5 absolute, so the tires aren't going to complain. Toe is pretty wonky though when your rears are pushing the car the way yours are. Setting the springs to the same measurements assumes the springs are pretty evenly matched for length and rate. This is not always true, and you would be wise to have them tested so you know exactly what you have. Then you can actually make adjustments and have the ability to predict the outcomes instead of just adjust some and test, adjust some and test, etc, etc...

clarionguy

I know toe setup all depends on the use of the car but what are your recommendations?
Eg daily driven, touring?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

0.04 degrees toe out in front, OEM spec in the rear. Does everything well for my street driven car.