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Coming from the 3IS section... I just installed coils and it created an undesired camber in the front (and to a lesser extent, the rear) of the car. I talked to the Figs vendor on here and he recommended me the bushing for the inner tire wear as well. So from what I've gathered, this won't help with negative camber but it will help with tire wear? How does that work? I thought negative camber and inner tire wear when hand in hand?
Both toe and camber impact the interior wear on a tire.
The Fig bushing helps stop the sloppyness of the "rear" of the Lower Control Arm.
During hard braking, the fluid filled bushing allows the rear control arm to move and causes the front tires to "toe out" or open up to the outside of the car.
Camber wear, while impacting the inside of the tire, also impacts the middle of the tire.
Coming from the 3IS section... I just installed coils and it created an undesired camber in the front (and to a lesser extent, the rear) of the car. I talked to the Figs vendor on here and he recommended me the bushing for the inner tire wear as well. So from what I've gathered, this won't help with negative camber but it will help with tire wear? How does that work? I thought negative camber and inner tire wear when hand in hand?
The front toe setting from the factory AND the factory specs is the true culprit for stock ISF inner tire wear.
Camber can do it as well lowered, if you lower to the point that it starts to change the front suspension angles that an alignment cannot bring it back.
I had the SPC ball joints installed that allow enough adjustment to get the camber back within spec for the drop that I wanted on my coils.
Thanks for the input guys... unfortunately, we do not have front camber kits for the 3IS yet... would you guys absolutely recommend these brushings? Sounds like there are no downsides...
IMO - if your main concern is tire wear, adjusting your alignment specs (specifically the toe) will most certainly solve your problem. If you want a less squishy LCA bushing that will improve overall performance and will reduce toe out during (hard) braking add the Figs.
I have even wear for my driving style now. The problem is, the squishy bushings will always deflect heavily, so everyone will need slightly different settings for best tire wear. Depends on your driving style, road quality, specific tires, etc.
Getting the poly bushings takes the guesswork out. Set toe slightly out (0.04 degrees) and you're golden.
Aren't there 2 or 3 lca bushing options by Figs?
How would you know which is best for you?
Yup, installed in new brackets, installed in used brackets, without brackets, and with offset holes as well. I don't think they have the softer bushings any more, but they used to offer the hard (90 durometer) and a softer bushing as well.
Unless there is something funny going on with your car that you need the offset bushings the easy choice is to buy the 90 durometer, installed in brackets (new or used is your choice) and do the install yourself.
Hey guys, I didn't want to start another thread about this. Anyways, my first set of tire actually blew up because of this (I believe) inner side wall was all ripped and worn out however I didn't see any of the cords like most people are. I bought new summers NItto NT555 245/35 and 275/30's and I was told I definitely needed an alignment. Before my alignment, there was a slight pull to the right but the steering wheel seemed to be straight. After my alignment I'd have to hold the steering wheel to the left a lot more than before and it still pulls to the right and now my car rides like its 'floating'
My question is, would the negative camber on LF be caused by something else or do I apply to the people that need to install the LCA bushings?
Hey guys, I didn't want to start another thread about this. Anyways, my first set of tire actually blew up because of this (I believe) inner side wall was all ripped and worn out however I didn't see any of the cords like most people are. I bought new summers NItto NT555 245/35 and 275/30's and I was told I definitely needed an alignment. Before my alignment, there was a slight pull to the right but the steering wheel seemed to be straight. After my alignment I'd have to hold the steering wheel to the left a lot more than before and it still pulls to the right and now my car rides like its 'floating'
My question is, would the negative camber on LF be caused by something else or do I apply to the people that need to install the LCA bushings?
Thanks
Its only .5 degrees and the caster is increased as well on that side. Its likely that the rear bushing could resolve an issue but remember an alignment is a single data point snapshot. If your factory bushing is worn it would impact the dynamic aspects of how the car handles on the road. It only takes 5mm-10mm to cause the changes you see in static alignment. take a picture of the rear bushing on that side and look for wrinkles in it.
Mike
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05-13-15, 11:23 AM
