lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

We've talked a bit about it.

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

I have been checking my 2013 since I've read about this issue. I have not seen any visible leaks so far and have not smelled coolant either, car has just hit 3K miles today. The leak around the manifold area, it that something that can be seen when the top plastic cover is removed? Or does it require some major dis assembly to check?

zazzn

The leak is right under the tb/ intake manifold so you can't see it. The only way I had a leak was the fact that there was pink all down the back if the engine and transmission .

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info Eric, I'll just keep an eye on the coolant level then.

zazzn

Alright, so here's some pics. Great news, you don't need to take off the timing cover, if you remove the heat exchanger, you can pull the coolant transfer pipe out as backwards.









I learned a lesson on how to quickly remove the Intake Manifold.

-remove battery
-remove the fuse box power connector and the screws holding it in place
-Take only the upper side of the harness off.
Separate the wires from the plastic cover under the V-Bank cover (ISF plastic engine cover) Usually you'll break it, but it's better spending the 50$ getting a new one because you'll likely break the starter wire trying to get it off if you don't do it this way.

-Take the coolant hoses off the Throttle Body
-remove the PCV hoses
-remove coolant heater core hoses
-remove the clips form the coils and all the other junk on the right side of the engine

you should have enough slack with the stupid plasic cover out of the way to pull the intake manifold with the port injectors still attached, just make sure you unhook the fuel line hose from latch at the back where the other high pressure fuel lines run.

Vola, should take only about 1.5 hour or so if you've done it once or twice.

GOTCHA's

-Not recommended removing the fuel rail, or the pulsation dampers as they don't need to be removed and in my case caused a leak which made me do the job twice.
-If you remove the high pressure connectors with fittings, you WILL need to buy new orings as if you try to place the old ones in, they will leak under the high pressure
-DO NOT AT ALL COSTS pull too hard on the DI injector necks when trying to pull off the connector. It's very costly to replace them if they break. You are better off breaking the connector and replacing it for 6$

Total cost of this job for parts alone was.

600$ - 2 Injectors
100$ - 8 Injector clips that broke (broke 2 replaced all)
80$ - Plastic cover for wire harness over engine
150$ - Misc parts

250$ - Water pump repair which after replacing they didn't pressure test the system (at dealer)
150$ - investigation at another deal to see where the leak was and all they could tell me was it was under intake manifold...

Engine is prepped and ready for new RTV gasket around the heat exchanger, have new 5$ o-rings hopefully that will stop my fing leak.

All in all was a good learning experience on the F,

MisterSkiz

iTrader: (2)

Wow man, thanks for all the pictures!

Could you tell when you opened it up that it was the O ring leaking for sure?

zazzn

No, it could have been the exchanger or the O ring. It's the only two things there that could leak unless there is a crack in the timing chain cover or the valley, where the heat exchange bolts to.

But as you can see from the pics it doesn't look that way.

That's why I was thinking the coolant had a lot to do with the leak.. Actually the Orings looked really good, and the FIPG under the exchanger looked good too so I don't know what the hell was going on. Thing is you can see all the pink crust under the transfer tube indicating that it was leaking there

MisterSkiz

iTrader: (2)

Very strange...congrats on having the ***** to pull it apart yourself.

You are the probably the first on the site to do so.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Ouch. So the thought of pressure testing before removing the heat exchanger to be sure you had the source didn't occur. I'd've been really concerned about that aspect of the job to ensure I didn't miss a crack somewhere.

I'm also wondering if there are locating dowels in the timing cover to keep it from moving relative to the block, or if it's only held in place with bolts and RTV. If there is relative motion between the timing cover and the block, I can see this being a design flaw.. O-rings are great, but if they get fretted, they'll leak every time.

zazzn

I did buy a test kit, but none of the caps that came with it fit the Lexus resistor cap.
We'll have to see about a crack. I highly doubt it, since I purchased the car form a guy who still had CPO and we both didn't know it but it was most likely leaking at that time then as well.


Besides, even if I could pressure test I wouildn't be able to see the leak because you have to drain the lines and remove tons of hoses just to get at that area under the intake manifold

digger08

iTrader: (1)

Hey Eric....

I just got the call from the dealer on their investigation into my car. They have confirmed the exact same thing as you. They are replacing the entire heat exchanger and related parts. They too had some part disintegration and are telling me that the silicone seal is to blame, and possibly warpage to the plate......but the real actual cause is unknown at this time. They are just stating seal failure.

...hard to know the full truth, as I do not even have access to see the motor. It took a day and a half for the diagnosis, but they admitted that the shop was slow this time of year and spent the proper time to look at the problem. I was also fortunate to talk to the shop foreman prior as you can smell coolant from my warm engine when I pulled in. Your pictures posted in this thread were extremely helpful in pushing the dealer to look in this direction. This all helps in reducing them chasing ghosts, or misdiagnosing the actual problem.

They removed the intake manifold, and it was visually evident, where the leak was coming from. In Canada there is not a lot of strong "F" trained technicians, due to the relative small amount of these cars here.

So thanks a million for sharing your experience in here as it certainly helped me out huge! I have ECP, but there will be some over and above charges on what they deem as "not covered" parts. That black plastic cover and other smalls have been denied by ECP. The majority of the work is covered so far.


BTW - I know Kevin N. in Toronto, that bought your old Turbo set up and have seen some of your DMT videos from Tony

Digger08

zazzn

Hey Digger,

Yeah I talk to Kevin form time to time. I miss my old supra so much and I wish I could buy my old turbo kit back... I'd put it on my mk3 over here!!

Anyways, I've finished the project, but I don't know if it's still leaking or not, I've fill the reservoir 2-3 times since the week of having it finished however, I'll admit I didn't pressure test, because I still don't have a proper tester. I may pop by lexus and have them do this...

Finally the plastic cost me about 80$ or something like that, and it's for sure to break if you go digging in the engine. The lesson I learned is you don't need to take out the fuel injectors or even touch them, all you need to do is take off the harness, and a few other things then you can take the whole intake manifold out including the injector drives are one whole unit.

the FIPG is not what believe was leaking, I think it was the Oring from the water pump still but it doesn't make sense since the original orings look in perfect shape.

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

OK, should I be concerned now that, after letting the car sit overnight and check the level at the overflow tank, it used to be at top or almost to the top of the word "full" and checked it this morning and it is at the bottom of "full"? Or can that level vary depending on ambient temperature? It is very cold now of course.
Car has 3500 miles. Thanks!

digger08

iTrader: (1)

Its more than just this. You should monitor the level over time and always check it "Hot" to establish a baseline.
With mine.... a strong coolant smell was always present (when running the car) both outside of the car and inside as well, which was the coolant cooking on top of the heat exchanger.

Coolant loss here was very slow.... maybe an inch or so on the overflow tank every month.

Mine was 3 stages over 3 years to discover, first the water pump, then I replaced the radiator, and now the heat exchanger cover gasket.....hopefully this will be the end of it, cause I'm running out of warranty. My car is also a 2008 with significant mileage (175,000 Km's or 108K Miles) - I do not think you will find anything on a car with 3500 miles. Just maintain your coolant checks on a hot engine. There is usually a slight fluctuation between cold and hot overflow reservoir readings.

Digger08

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info I will start checking it hot then.

-Ron