LexF

My stock suspension on my 2009 is rough on daily driving... Perhaps I shall snag some of these coilovers you all speak of.

ToothDoc

I thought the 08 suspension was fine but I put the BC coilovers on really soft 20 clicks and 25 clicks. Yes, it was comfy and soft but it actually didn't feel good. I guess I'm just used to them being hard so I'm down to 8 clicks and 10 clicks in the rear. Now it feels sporty again! I guess I like my ride a little firm. I did notice that there is noticeable less bodyroll in the turns now.

IS350atWOT

iTrader: (1)

So I think I'll get a set of these. I noticed that a lot of you with this setup get the Swift springs. Should I be ok in keeping the stock springs?

JrBully

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the post fellow members. I thought I knew what coilovers I wanted before reading this thread, but now I'm leaning towards the BC's. How much do these coils cost with the custom swift springs cost?

CircuitMS

iTrader: (51)

The Swift springs are a higher quality spring and will provide better ride quality as well as overall handling. Swift only makes springs, and they are some of the best springs available on the market, which is why they perform better than the standard BC springs (although there is nothing wrong with the standard springs).


Depending on the springs you get the Swifts will generally be about $299 more over the standard kit.

Any one here can feel free to shoot us a PM, we are an Authorized BC Racing dealer and do a lot of these custom kits, so we can help

senxation

Had anyone deal with 18k/14k? Not sure whether I should get that rate or 16k/12k rates.. I remember having my old car, it was pretty bouncy but I am not too sure if 18/14 would be too stiff. What do you guys suggest?! Those who had 16/12, would you even consider getting 18/14?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you don't plan to track (road course) the car, I would stick with the 16/12.

ULTSISF

iTrader: (2)

I'm waiting on 16/14k spring rates w the swift springs. Trying to go very low, wondering what's the best setting for dampening.

scamsel

not the 14/10's huh? just curious why this is your preference?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The front springs from the factory are pretty soft. They work OK, but not great. 16/12 is a bit better IMHO.

sc3dreamin

iTrader: (1)

So just to be clear here, the 14/10 should ride a bit softer/smoother on the street than the 16/12 right?

Seems like they recommended 14/10 but everyone is jumping up the 16/12 and even 18/14.... lol

blckbrd

I have no experience with 14/10 spring rates but my 16/12 setup is great. I'm slammed with dampening set at 18 clicks from soft in front and 21 clicks from soft in the rear and it's really smooth for daily driving.
good luck

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

Guys the springs are your gross travel limit and our suggestions are based on how you will use the car.
14/10 is a setup for stock power, wheels, tires looking for the ability to adjust for more spirited driving and better balance but not the added energy of modifications, lowering beyond that 1" front and .6" rear and with comfort in mind. The 16/12 is just a step up of 120lbs/in on each corner of travel limit. That means for people looking for a lower ride, or aggressive fitment, or added power/braking, they will resist this added energy. The damping is the "how fast will the suspension travel" portion of the equation and where most of the perceived comfort comes in. We derived these rates from street and track testing on different tires and ride heights. Currently with the advancements to our car we are running 18k/14k on the Penske shocks that utilize a more sophisticated vavle design (dual flow) that can handle the complex energy exchange in the fluid. The 18k/14k rates will be too narrow a dynamic range with the BC damper design as it will push you into the more restrictive rebound settings which will cause the ride to go unbounded (bouncy).

The 16/12 setup is intended to add more dynamic range to the damping adjustment for spirited drivers and get more settings our of the shock that are usable. The balance has been chosen due to the braking power and the F's tendency to shift a lot of weight fwd. The rear-link design bumpsteers and with our suspension we actually like to have the rear settle the remainder of the front's shockwave by both steering into the corner appropriately and damping in a difference mode that the front. For this reason we also always have you tune the front damping first, then let the rear come in after to get the remaining settling done.

Its a pretty simple equation for a very simple shock design in the BC. To get more complicated, you need a more sophisticated means of tuning the damping. This is one reason we worked on the Ohlins setup as a stepping stone to the full Penske setup. It has a more sophisticated valve design that will handle higher rates batter if chosen. So far I think most people would feel pretty uncomfortable pulling the G's we are doing now with relative ease, but its a different level of product.

So look at your preferences, look at your long term goals for the car and give us a call, test or email and we will do our best to set you up for how you would prefer a car to handle.
Thanks
Mike

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

are you saying 16k/12k is better for cars lower than 1", aggressive wheels, etc?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

Yes, precisely. Shorter stroke (from an already short factory stroke) means less travel to catch the force before bottoming. Spring rate is just a force over a distance. If the distance decreases the counterforce (spring rate) needs to increase to account for this.
Mike