Earl's Solo-Bleed for IS-F
02-01-09, 09:24 PM
#1
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Earl's Solo-Bleed for IS-F
Anyone who tracks their car will spend a lot of time bleeding brakes. I got a set of Earl's Solo-Bleed valves to replace the Brembo units. Here's what you need to know:
Package and both valves
Part Number
Side by Side views
The wife picked them up at Summit when she was in McDonough on Friday. They come two to a package (not one as you see in the picture) so you'll need two packages to do the whole car. Unlike the IS350, they are all the same. They're available from lots of places.
Install isn't even worth a pic - just unscrew the Brembo valve and replace with the Earl's unit. Be careful installing them - the threads on the Earl's pieces are just a little tighter than the Brembos so they feel like they're cross threading when you put them in, but they're not at all. Once you have it in and seated once, back it out one turn and put a hose on it to drain into something safe for used brake fluid, then pump the brake to purge any air you might have let in by installing them. Tighten the valve, install the rubber cap and top off the reservoir. You're good to go. Now you can bleed your brakes without an assistant or a power bleeder.
Package and both valves
Part Number
Side by Side views
The wife picked them up at Summit when she was in McDonough on Friday. They come two to a package (not one as you see in the picture) so you'll need two packages to do the whole car. Unlike the IS350, they are all the same. They're available from lots of places.
Install isn't even worth a pic - just unscrew the Brembo valve and replace with the Earl's unit. Be careful installing them - the threads on the Earl's pieces are just a little tighter than the Brembos so they feel like they're cross threading when you put them in, but they're not at all. Once you have it in and seated once, back it out one turn and put a hose on it to drain into something safe for used brake fluid, then pump the brake to purge any air you might have let in by installing them. Tighten the valve, install the rubber cap and top off the reservoir. You're good to go. Now you can bleed your brakes without an assistant or a power bleeder.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 06-23-09 at 11:18 AM.
The following users liked this post:
n9tkd9 (03-11-20)
Not to expensive judging from the links, thanks!
02-02-09, 03:47 PM
#6
It's what people do to get air out of the lines, or simply replace fluid once it's done for.
I bleed my brakes once a while to make sure I have no air in the system.
I may need to get some of those bleeders for my car. I hate having to ask for assistant because one more person means higher change of human error.
I bleed my brakes once a while to make sure I have no air in the system.
I may need to get some of those bleeders for my car. I hate having to ask for assistant because one more person means higher change of human error.
08-03-11, 10:13 PM
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Honeoye, NY
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Summit sells them on ebay for $37 (for four) shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Earls...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Earls...Q5fAccessories
Trending Topics
07-31-12, 08:23 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just to confirm...part #: 280022ERL Earl's solo bleed is the correct size for a 2008 Lexus ISF. I am about to order them in the next 5 minutes and Summit Racing has no records whether that part will fit an ISF when I called them.
07-31-12, 09:09 AM
#11
Lexus Champion
08-05-12, 02:58 PM
#12
Just be careful not to over tighten them, otherwise you might end up with a broken bleeder screw like me!
02-10-14, 10:12 PM
#14
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
No. Do not use thread sealant on these. The threads do not make the seal, the conical point on the bleeder makes the seal.
03-01-14, 05:02 PM
#15
Just installed the Earls solo bleeders on all 4 corners. I was able to thread the Earls bleeders by hand until the very "end" when it closes the valve. So, basically, the same amount of "force" as the OEM bleeders, meaning, after you break the torque lock, you can easily screw/unscrew by using your fingers...
I noticed that even if I just crack the Earl bleeders open a little bit, like 1/8th of a turn, I am still able to pump the pedal. And if i just hand tighten the Earl bleeders closed, I cannot push the brake pedal down, so it seems to close pretty well. Needless to say, I tightened the Earl bleeders just a little more so they won't back out. Just afraid of them snapping off and getting stuck into the caliper.
Ran through 5 bottles of OEM Toyota brake fluid, sucking out the reservoir and adding back before flushing took up 1 bottle. Then used 1 bottle per corner which was probably overkill, but I did not want to keep any open brake fluid bottles sitting around for months either...
I will need to monitor for slow leaks after a few days/weeks.... for I am not sure if the valves/plunger are truly closed....
Anyone have the Earls' leak at all, even just a little?
I noticed that even if I just crack the Earl bleeders open a little bit, like 1/8th of a turn, I am still able to pump the pedal. And if i just hand tighten the Earl bleeders closed, I cannot push the brake pedal down, so it seems to close pretty well. Needless to say, I tightened the Earl bleeders just a little more so they won't back out. Just afraid of them snapping off and getting stuck into the caliper.
Ran through 5 bottles of OEM Toyota brake fluid, sucking out the reservoir and adding back before flushing took up 1 bottle. Then used 1 bottle per corner which was probably overkill, but I did not want to keep any open brake fluid bottles sitting around for months either...
I will need to monitor for slow leaks after a few days/weeks.... for I am not sure if the valves/plunger are truly closed....
Anyone have the Earls' leak at all, even just a little?
Last edited by itsmike177; 03-01-14 at 05:09 PM.
