How much work to install a subwoofer and amp on non-ML IS250?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
How much work to install a subwoofer and amp on non-ML IS250?
I have a 2014 IS250 F-Sport w/ Nav standard audio non-ML and would like to add a subwoofer and amp. Does the power to the subwoofer amp need to come directly from the battery or can it be ported from the factory amp in the back? If I need to run my own wires all the way from the battery, how much work will be involved? Any guides? Thanks.
#2
Lexus Test Driver
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Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
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Same car I have vital, except the Canadian version.
The factory stereo amp on the non-ML audio is built into the radio unit, so unfortunately there is no separate amp in the back.
The factory stereo amp on the non-ML audio is built into the radio unit, so unfortunately there is no separate amp in the back.
#4
Sub enclosure
Check out my thread. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...w-sub-box.html
The custom enclosure is still about three weeks out but after mine is installed the shop is going to start making them. PM me is you would like contact details for the shop.
Cheers
The custom enclosure is still about three weeks out but after mine is installed the shop is going to start making them. PM me is you would like contact details for the shop.
Cheers
#5
Lead Lap
I have a 2014 IS250 F-Sport w/ Nav standard audio non-ML and would like to add a subwoofer and amp. Does the power to the subwoofer amp need to come directly from the battery or can it be ported from the factory amp in the back? If I need to run my own wires all the way from the battery, how much work will be involved? Any guides? Thanks.
#7
I was told that a 10w7 is like "blow your ears out" loud. I think that a 10w6 would be only marginally quieter than that. I went with a 10w3 to attempt to compliment the stock system rather than drown it out. I am pretty sure that it will provide enough bottom end to fill out the stock sound but not drown it out. It has the potential to compliment an aftermarket set up should I decide to go that route later on.
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#8
Besides from running the power cable from battery to the amplifier, you would also need to get the signals from the rear sub wires. To do this, you need to tap into the rear sub wires (at the stock amp) with an inline converter with RCA output to your amplifier.
I haven't messed with audio in a while but if you're not familiar with this, it will be quite a task to take on. Especially if you're splitting stock speaker wires.
10W6 is overkill and will rattle the-hell-outta everything in your car. Basically all you'll hear is bass and trunk rattle. Go with the 10w3.
#9
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Not true. There is a factory (non-ML) amp in the back that drives the rear speakers and stock subwoofer.
Besides from running the power cable from battery to the amplifier, you would also need to get the signals from the rear sub wires. To do this, you need to tap into the rear sub wires (at the stock amp) with an inline converter with RCA output to your amplifier.
I haven't messed with audio in a while but if you're not familiar with this, it will be quite a task to take on. Especially if you're splitting stock speaker wires.
10W6 is overkill and will rattle the-hell-outta everything in your car. Basically all you'll hear is bass and trunk rattle. Go with the 10w3.
Besides from running the power cable from battery to the amplifier, you would also need to get the signals from the rear sub wires. To do this, you need to tap into the rear sub wires (at the stock amp) with an inline converter with RCA output to your amplifier.
I haven't messed with audio in a while but if you're not familiar with this, it will be quite a task to take on. Especially if you're splitting stock speaker wires.
10W6 is overkill and will rattle the-hell-outta everything in your car. Basically all you'll hear is bass and trunk rattle. Go with the 10w3.
I stand corrected...600rr is correct, the factory non-ML system does have a separate amp in the right rear of the trunk. Not sure how I missed it before, but that is where it should be.
#11
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#12
#13
You will need to run wires directly from the battery to the back. You can run the power from the battery to the trunk by running the wires from under the door sills on the driver side and rear left passenger side. Maybe someone on the forums can tell you how they ran the power cable from the battery to the inside of the cabin, since I haven't done it myself on this vehicle.
#15
IIRC, they're midrange w/ tweeter built in. at least the corner ones in front.
it's been a while since i looked into it...
i wanted to upgrade my speakers only but it doesn't seem possible.
it's been a while since i looked into it...
i wanted to upgrade my speakers only but it doesn't seem possible.