Wessels

I noticed the other day, that the covered parking my car stays under has a rusty beam over it. I've also realized this must be where these tiny pin-tip sized dots of what looks like rust must be coming from, when it rains it drips down from the beam collecting tiny bits of rust particles and settles onto my car. They do not rinse off, or come off with a microfiber towel. What would you all recommend be the best method for removing them? A polisher perhaps? I have the ultra white paint btw. I'm definitely not parking under there anymore

snabbledab

I would suggest going to walmart and using a clay bar to try and get rid of those rust spots. If you do use a clay bar though, you should rewax your car as the clay bar will remove the wax

Wessels

I actually tried this yesterday, (forgot to mention) and it really wasn't working that great. Maybe i wasn't pressing hard enough? I felt like i shouldnt have to put much pressure onto the clay bar to do it right.. I've never done it before though so idk.

JDR76

Google "Industrial Fallout" and "Carpro IronX".

http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-...FQ9rfgodtJMEag

Wessels

I youtubed the iron-x product and that matches to a T. I'm going to go ahead and order a bottle of this to keep on hand. I'm sure the air pollution from being in Dallas doesn't help the situation! Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

JDR76

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out, though I have confidence it'll be perfect.

Solara350

WD-40 works with micro foam towel

premier3IS

wow, we have this exacttt same issue, except they are water drop sized and have never completely came off the other 2 cars we own. Made sure I never parked the Lexus in any of those spots in the garage, especially when it rains. Even when you can get them slightly off after a wash, you can see the marking in the paint where it was or streaked down. be careful it doesn't get on the windows because it leaves a streak going down that doesn't come off as well.

If anyone has a solution that works, please let us know. I never thought anyone else would have this exact same issue lol.

Lveyolfe

Clay bar, keep the paint lubricated. Then do a cut and buff, finish it off with wax

VTsuckah

iTrader: (1)

Totally unnecessary. I had industrial fallout on my 2IS. Clay barring only provides a temporary fix. You need to neutralize the rust. As stated earlier, a product such as IronX does just that. Once I used iron X, the rust spots never came back.

With that said, I did a full detail afterwards to include a polish with an orbital and application of a sealant. Cut/Compounding was not necessary.