Electronic Exhaust Bypass Valve Idea
#1
Electronic Exhaust Bypass Valve Idea
I'm going to see how much this is to fab up for our cars. For those who aren't familiar with a bypass valve, it's really just a Y pipe that is welded into the stock exhaust pipe. One of the Y’s legs continues on the exhaust as normal while the other Y leg can be vented to the atmosphere. Now with the leg vented to the atmosphere the user has control to cap it off leaving the exhaust to flow as the OEM manufacturer intended, or un-cap the exhaust to dump right to the atmosphere.
I've seen systems look like this and I'm going to try to see if it will work.
I've seen systems look like this and I'm going to try to see if it will work.
Last edited by dnasians; 02-03-17 at 01:40 PM.
#2
Intermediate
I really was thinking of doing this too. Where were you thinking of putting the bypass? Is there room on the sides of the spare tire well? It's winter up here and I need to find some wood to get the jack under my car before I can look, but it's too cold. If you live in socal and your car is on a lift, I hate you.
#3
I really was thinking of doing this too. Where were you thinking of putting the bypass? Is there room on the sides of the spare tire well? It's winter up here and I need to find some wood to get the jack under my car before I can look, but it's too cold. If you live in socal and your car is on a lift, I hate you.
#4
It may not be any faster, though. You're losing whatever reflected wave, blah that the stock system engineered (same as replacing the complex air box with its Helmholtz resonance frequency tuning with a plain tube).
I assume you're going to use a solenoid to operate the bypass? From what I've read, one easily avoided mistake is do not put the electronic parts at the valve itself. Instead use a long link and a remote mount, which also allows you to adjust the open/close rate.
Be careful the new exit doesn't cook anything important! If that little stub in the picture is the exit, it may work OK for cruising but 20 minutes in traffic will scorch the paint off the sheet metal directly above it, not to mention direct exhaust CO into the trunk.
I assume you're going to use a solenoid to operate the bypass? From what I've read, one easily avoided mistake is do not put the electronic parts at the valve itself. Instead use a long link and a remote mount, which also allows you to adjust the open/close rate.
Be careful the new exit doesn't cook anything important! If that little stub in the picture is the exit, it may work OK for cruising but 20 minutes in traffic will scorch the paint off the sheet metal directly above it, not to mention direct exhaust CO into the trunk.
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