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So this will not be a full write up as there has been several write ups on how to hook up your after market amplifier. Mine is a 2014 F Sport non- ML so yours may vary slightly but these are some of the questions that I had while installing my stereo.
1. Remote wire will be coming right out of the factory amplifier located on the passenger side rear panel. it is the clip closest to the rear and there are 3 wires coming out 2 larger black ones and one white one. The white one has no power when the car is off, and 12 V when the car is on. The amp will turn on even if the stereo is off because there is still audio via phone, navigation etc.
- I Also tapped my LOC over there as you can see in the photos. L+ Beige; L- Pink; R+ Green; R- White.
2. For a good ground and searched all over the trunk. I wanted something that connected to the frame but wasn't too far from my amps location. I found a bolt at the rear of the car that connects to the bumper it is behind the plastic. It is painted so you will have to get your wire stripper bit out and clean the bolt and surrounding area. Use a steel washer and a solid bolt to connect.
Everything else is straight forward, the amp is a JL RD 500/1 and I used the RBC-1 bass control ****. I secured the amp down with a healthy strip of Velcro. The amp is a perfect fit in the space below my subwoofer. Hope this helps others with their install! I always use Kicker Wire even though my setup is all JL Audio, I always have loved the quality of their wires; fuse holder, and connectors.
Nice job. So this amp powers your car's speakers? Assuming not stock speakers. I want to do this but for my subwoofer amp. I want to velcro it on top of the factory amp but i don't remember if there's enough room. Probably not. Right now I have my subwoofer screwed onto my single 12" box but I hate having all those wires in the trunk.
Nice and detailed, thank you. This is gonna come in handy when I decide to do my installation. I have 2 10" W6V3D4 that I've been wanting to install for a while. How do you like the sound with the box you made for yours? Do you think if I made 2 boxes like yours for my W6 would sound good? I would probably need to get a different amp to power both of them wouldn't I? Any advice on what amo I should use that would fit on the spot you have yours hidden? Should I try installing 2 amps instead of one? Thanks for the advice
Oh I see what you did you put the amp on the LEFT side compartment. It's hard to tell from your pics cause they are so close up. I'll have to relocate my amp now..
Yes the Amp is on the drivers side rear compartment. Edwin8484 I am coming from experience with a 10" w7 in a ported box and I am much happier with the 10" w6 in a sealed enclosure. The sound is more responsive and the bass is not overbearing. I do recommend using the bass control **** so that you can adjust on the fly. As for two 10" w6's I am sure if you are looking for a lot of bass that will be a great setup. As for the amp you will need to get a 1000 watts RMS. I am using 4 gauge as recommended by JL for this amplifier. I suggest going to their website and choosing an amp, in the spec section it will tell you which wire and fuse is recommended. I am really happy with the RD series. RD makes a 1000/1 but it definitely wont fit in the space I have used.
If you are concerned about a lot of bass you could upgrade to one 10 W7 however you would need to make the box slightly larger, which would work if you are willing to use the passenger side as there is more room. Just be careful with the trunk hinges as they come down low when the trunk is closing.
I have a 2014 Non-ML IS250, buy cable harness where you tapped the remote wire is different. Would you happen to know what color wire it would be for my car since it has more wires? Also, what size nut did you buy to secure your ground wire in the trunk? Thanks!
I have a 2014 Non-ML IS250, buy cable harness where you tapped the remote wire is different. Would you happen to know what color wire it would be for my car since it has more wires? Also, what size nut did you buy to secure your ground wire in the trunk? Thanks!
Even if he told you what color wire it is, would you really want to guess? Anyone doing this type of work should use a multimeter to confirm. They are cheap at harbor freight or online like this one: http://amzn.to/2fwWP3c
And a side note thanks to the OP i relocated my amp and all is working well. I used a ground much closer to the amp than the one you used though. Same thing.. bolt sticking out through the back sheet metal but directly under the tail light. I made the wires long enough so I can lift the amp up and out to mess with the wires without stressing them. I recommend to anyone who does this is wrap tape around the ends of the hot wires and use something to insulate the wires from the body of the car in case the wires ever come loose. I used a piece of foam mat. I may rig something up better in the future. Close quarters in this area especially if your amp is on the bigger side and plenty of opportunity for stuff to get shorted out if not protected.
Even if he told you what color wire it is, would you really want to guess? Anyone doing this type of work should use a multimeter to confirm. They are cheap at harbor freight or online like this one: http://amzn.to/2fwWP3c
And a side note thanks to the OP i relocated my amp and all is working well. I used a ground much closer to the amp than the one you used though. Same thing.. bolt sticking out through the back sheet metal but directly under the tail light. I made the wires long enough so I can lift the amp up and out to mess with the wires without stressing them. I recommend to anyone who does this is wrap tape around the ends of the hot wires and use something to insulate the wires from the body of the car in case the wires ever come loose. I used a piece of foam mat. I may rig something up better in the future. Close quarters in this area especially if your amp is on the bigger side and plenty of opportunity for stuff to get shorted out if not protected.
If the amplifier was screwed down into place securely and solid and the power wire terminated at amplifier connector and lined is fused properly there is no concern installing it in this small confine.
If the amplifier was screwed down into place securely and solid and the power wire terminated at amplifier connector and lined is fused properly there is no concern installing it in this small confine.
The line is fused but you can still spark and ignite flammable material without blowing the fuse as long as the load rating of the fuse isn't exceeded.
Further, I'd rather not drill into the body since it's a lease. Don't want rust, etc too. For something like this I just usually velcro.
The line is fused but you can still spark and ignite flammable material without blowing the fuse as long as the load rating of the fuse isn't exceeded.
Further, I'd rather not drill into the body since it's a lease. Don't want rust, etc too. For something like this I just usually velcro.
no offense, velcro is mickey mouse no matter how you put it.
a professional would not velcro an amplifier in place.
a amplifier properly screwed down will not accidentally spark because it will not have a chance to move at all.
If it is a lease, i dont see why you would be concern about drilling, dealer when returning wont even find those holes.
I own my own vehicle and was concern about rust and i quadruped checked myself of drilling holes trying to change my mind but i saw no other way to do a solid professional looking job without doing so.
no offense, velcro is mickey mouse no matter how you put it.
a professional would not velcro an amplifier in place.
a amplifier properly screwed down will not accidentally spark because it will not have a chance to move at all.
If it is a lease, i dont see why you would be concern about drilling, dealer when returning wont even find those holes.
I own my own vehicle and was concern about rust and i quadruped checked myself of drilling holes trying to change my mind but i saw no other way to do a solid professional looking job without doing so.
No offense but I think drilling a $45,000 car chassis is mickey mouse. huge no-no. I don't **** with factory sheet metal if I can avoid it. Drilling the body is something not so easily reversed and you can introduce water and moisture into the trunk and that's especially not good for the amp. And here I can avoid it.
Large strips of Velcro used correctly on a small amp that has no where to go to begin with is perfectly fine... and reversible. I used velcro in the same manner on my Prius and CT200h and had to use pretty much super-human strength to pull the amp away. And best of all, the car's body remained perfectly in tact and fully stock in function and appearance. If you can achieve the same function but using non-destructive means, why use destructive means when you don't have to? A lot of people go bro-strength or think in bro-terms when it comes to to install things. MUST USE MAN DRILL.
You can be smart about things and be dynamic and purposeful in your thinking =) My 2 cents =)
10-18-16, 10:00 AM
Subwoofer Hidden Amp Installation
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