Programming Homelink
#16
Pole Position
iTrader: (10)
Programming in the garage is no problem.
It's a recommendation in case you get into a situation where you get a dead zone with the wireless signal where it may not work for being too close; gets a bit technical here. Need to imagine a wireless is like squashed doughnut where inner center area is like where the signal is weak and considered the dead zone.
A homelink there is a security risk if someones does get into the car if parked outside and presses the remote to gain free entry. One way to protect against this, is a garage door opener which is capable of remote control lockout. My garage door opener has this feature and it comes in handy as it will not respond to any remote control commands as long as it's engaged; so if your car happens to be parked outside and someone does get in, they can't access the garage. My car is normally parked inside anyways, but I use it for the extra security.
It's a recommendation in case you get into a situation where you get a dead zone with the wireless signal where it may not work for being too close; gets a bit technical here. Need to imagine a wireless is like squashed doughnut where inner center area is like where the signal is weak and considered the dead zone.
A homelink there is a security risk if someones does get into the car if parked outside and presses the remote to gain free entry. One way to protect against this, is a garage door opener which is capable of remote control lockout. My garage door opener has this feature and it comes in handy as it will not respond to any remote control commands as long as it's engaged; so if your car happens to be parked outside and someone does get in, they can't access the garage. My car is normally parked inside anyways, but I use it for the extra security.
#19
Driver School Candidate
Hi. My genie remote had a slider switch on the side. One position of the switch is 315mhz and the other 390. Homelink only works with one of these frequencies. I struggled for weeks trying to figure out what was going on. One genie rep couldnt figure it ou. But another one identified the switch issue and once i tried the other switch position it is worked.
#20
I got a new Liftmaster garage door opener tonight with a rolling code remote. I programmed the Homelink on the first attempt on both of my Lexus's using the garage remote control. I didn't even bother using the Learn button on the garage door opener.
#21
Pit Crew
My garage door opener is over 25 years old and doesn't have a learn button anywhere. I've tried and tried and tried.........and failed.......and finally given up. My remote sits in the front cupholder!! Perhaps I should tape it to the back of the rear view mirror and pretend the button is part of the car!!
#22
My garage door opener is over 25 years old and doesn't have a learn button anywhere. I've tried and tried and tried.........and failed.......and finally given up. My remote sits in the front cupholder!! Perhaps I should tape it to the back of the rear view mirror and pretend the button is part of the car!!
My garage opener was 25 years old as well. You need to follow the first set of instructions where you put the remote control directly up to the mirror...
#23
My opener is old also. I brought my remote to the dealer on the day of delivery, and the technician set it up for me.
One of my neighbors had a problem programming the homelink, and the same tech came out to the house and got it working.
One of my neighbors had a problem programming the homelink, and the same tech came out to the house and got it working.
#24
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 27
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The FCC has re-allocated frequencies for garage door openers. Some of the older freq’s have been dropped off of the newer Homelinks so some people may not be able to program their older openers.
Also, I rewired my Homelink to be powered from the ignition circuit for security purposes. It only works with the key on.
For those having difficulty erasing existing codes, some people don’t understand that both outside buttons must be pressed SIMULTANEOUSLY, not press one then the other. Hold them down for 10 seconds.
I am a former Homelink tech advisor.
Also, I rewired my Homelink to be powered from the ignition circuit for security purposes. It only works with the key on.
For those having difficulty erasing existing codes, some people don’t understand that both outside buttons must be pressed SIMULTANEOUSLY, not press one then the other. Hold them down for 10 seconds.
I am a former Homelink tech advisor.
#26
The advice about possible interference helped me…… could not get homelink to recognize my remote opener, would blink but not turn green. Drove out of the driveway, to the cub de sac at the end of the street…. BAM! That did it! Then went back and completed the process of the opener learn button. I forget who wrote about the procedure, but THANK YOU !
#27
Got a new LiftMaster garage door opener and had to reprogram both vehicles. The Lincoln was a snap. My SC refuses to link no matter what I try - reset, remote close to buttons, learn mode.... Reading that some people had luck doing the connection outside their garage, I tried doing the connection with my SC parked 20 feet from the garage. It still did not work. I looked on YouTube and a guy says to buy a Homelink Compatibility Bridge. They cost about $40. Anybody else had to do this?
#28
Got a new LiftMaster garage door opener and had to reprogram both vehicles. The Lincoln was a snap. My SC refuses to link no matter what I try - reset, remote close to buttons, learn mode.... Reading that some people had luck doing the connection outside their garage, I tried doing the connection with my SC parked 20 feet from the garage. It still did not work. I looked on YouTube and a guy says to buy a Homelink Compatibility Bridge. They cost about $40. Anybody else had to do this?
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