specONE

iTrader: (3)

Make sure you tapped into the correct wire and not severe any in the process.

these cars are tricky and not a DIY honestly.


There are two setup, and wiring at the amp will be different depend on this (Mark Levinson and standard)


There is only 1 pair of subwoofer wires, so what I did was wire but the GREY and WHITE set of LOC in parallel to the Subwoofer wires at the Amplifier.

jdiron29

It shouldn't matter if you tap into the subwoofer or speaker it can be done either way, sounds like your wiring maybe the issue. If the amp turns on that means you have signal from the speakers, check your grounds and remote to amp. Make sure it's wired up properly ( no twisty ties or other half asses crap) that can create high resistance and low signals.

Aleriance

Ok, So I am now getting strong output from the subs... But my main volume **** (to the car) keeps on going out. I removed the negative terminal from the battery to give it a quick reset and it all goes smooth for a few seconds and then the volume **** stops working again... Any ideas?

jdiron29

Did you tap into the mute wire by any chance? Check connectors at amp, it's a black wire. Does the volume number change when you turn the **** or is nothing showing up at all?

Aleriance

I don't think so, I for sure only tapped into the wires you suggested above at first, was getting nothing from subs, and that's when I removed them and tapped into the gray (+) and blue (-) sub wires at the amp. That's when the subs really started kicking but now I'm running into this. And no, nothing comes up on the screen either, just no response from the volume **** at all after a few seconds. Any sound from the radio also cuts out with the volume control. (or perhaps it goes to 0 volume when that happens...)

jdiron29

When you wired everything back on the front speakers did you cross the 2 pink wires? It's seems like the amplifier is shutting down to protect itself.

Aleriance

Just checked and none of the wires are touching. Now, all the connections are twist tied together (pretty solidly) and I did sever the blue and gray sub wires and attach some 16 gauge wire from them to the LOC.

jdiron29

Any chance you can snap a pic? Something is triggering the factory amp to turn off, those factory amps are real sensitive.

Aleriance

Just checked and none of the wires are touching. Now, all the connections are twist tied together (pretty solidly) and I did sever the blue and gray sub wires and attach some 16 gauge wire from them to the LOC.

brendanf

When you did your wiring, did you unplug the wires to the amp to make it easier to install? Just wondering if one of those plugs isn't plugged in quite enough and it is interrupting the communication between the volume controls and the amp. It is a data link.

Aleriance

I did try to disconnect the whole harness to the amp but couldn't get it off, so instead I unbolted the amp and pulled it out to make it easier to work with. Also, now when I start the car I hear the subs kick gently 3 times and then it goes out (weird)

brendanf

Yeah that is strange.

I would take a close look at the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also check with wires where they enter the plugs. Perhaps one got pulled out of the plug slightly and is making poor contact.

If that is all good, then the amp might be going into a protection mode and shutting down. In which case, it is possible that a fault still exists or damage has been done that will require replacement of the amp.

When you connected the LOC did you run both sets of input wires to the LOC to the same 2 wires that drive the factory sub? If you did, it MAY be a case where you created too low of an impedance for the amp in which case you could have blown an output transistor which would cause an amp to go into protection mode.

Aleriance

You actually nailed it... I gave the harness a good push into the amp and felt it move ever so slightly LOL... And voila... My house is shaking... the mystery has been solved! Thanks a lot for your help! There needs to be more people like you on these forums!

manchild

Aleriance, where did you wire the remote turn on for your amp? Did you run it to the fuse box? or were you able to find a remote turn on at the factory amp?

Aleriance

Some people say there is a wire you can tap into at the factory amp for the remote wire, but since mine is a lease, I wanted to splice into as few wires as possible. I ended up running the remote along the driver's side from the trunk to the pedals where the fuse box is. (My radar is wired to the same fuse that only comes on when the ignition is on)

Here's a pic. It's the 6th on up from the bottom left that you see empty (I pulled the fuse out so you can see it)



Oh, and just for the record, there are only two wires that you should be splicing into for the subs. Someone told me in a different thread that you could "tap into front speakers" which was totally false and I ended up ruining the wiring at my factory amp and now my front speakers have never sounded the same. Shame.