Help with factory amplifier wires
#16
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Make sure you tapped into the correct wire and not severe any in the process.
these cars are tricky and not a DIY honestly.
There are two setup, and wiring at the amp will be different depend on this (Mark Levinson and standard)
There is only 1 pair of subwoofer wires, so what I did was wire but the GREY and WHITE set of LOC in parallel to the Subwoofer wires at the Amplifier.
these cars are tricky and not a DIY honestly.
There are two setup, and wiring at the amp will be different depend on this (Mark Levinson and standard)
There is only 1 pair of subwoofer wires, so what I did was wire but the GREY and WHITE set of LOC in parallel to the Subwoofer wires at the Amplifier.
#17
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It shouldn't matter if you tap into the subwoofer or speaker it can be done either way, sounds like your wiring maybe the issue. If the amp turns on that means you have signal from the speakers, check your grounds and remote to amp. Make sure it's wired up properly ( no twisty ties or other half asses crap) that can create high resistance and low signals.
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It shouldn't matter if you tap into the subwoofer or speaker it can be done either way, sounds like your wiring maybe the issue. If the amp turns on that means you have signal from the speakers, check your grounds and remote to amp. Make sure it's wired up properly ( no twisty ties or other half asses crap) that can create high resistance and low signals.
#19
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Did you tap into the mute wire by any chance? Check connectors at amp, it's a black wire. Does the volume number change when you turn the **** or is nothing showing up at all?
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I don't think so, I for sure only tapped into the wires you suggested above at first, was getting nothing from subs, and that's when I removed them and tapped into the gray (+) and blue (-) sub wires at the amp. That's when the subs really started kicking but now I'm running into this. And no, nothing comes up on the screen either, just no response from the volume **** at all after a few seconds. Any sound from the radio also cuts out with the volume control. (or perhaps it goes to 0 volume when that happens...)
#21
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I don't think so, I for sure only tapped into the wires you suggested above at first, was getting nothing from subs, and that's when I removed them and tapped into the gray (+) and blue (-) sub wires at the amp. That's when the subs really started kicking but now I'm running into this. And no, nothing comes up on the screen either, just no response from the volume **** at all after a few seconds. Any sound from the radio also cuts out with the volume control. (or perhaps it goes to 0 volume when that happens...)
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Just checked and none of the wires are touching. Now, all the connections are twist tied together (pretty solidly) and I did sever the blue and gray sub wires and attach some 16 gauge wire from them to the LOC.
#23
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Any chance you can snap a pic? Something is triggering the factory amp to turn off, those factory amps are real sensitive.
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Just checked and none of the wires are touching. Now, all the connections are twist tied together (pretty solidly) and I did sever the blue and gray sub wires and attach some 16 gauge wire from them to the LOC.
#25
When you did your wiring, did you unplug the wires to the amp to make it easier to install? Just wondering if one of those plugs isn't plugged in quite enough and it is interrupting the communication between the volume controls and the amp. It is a data link.
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I did try to disconnect the whole harness to the amp but couldn't get it off, so instead I unbolted the amp and pulled it out to make it easier to work with. Also, now when I start the car I hear the subs kick gently 3 times and then it goes out (weird)
#27
Yeah that is strange.
I would take a close look at the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also check with wires where they enter the plugs. Perhaps one got pulled out of the plug slightly and is making poor contact.
If that is all good, then the amp might be going into a protection mode and shutting down. In which case, it is possible that a fault still exists or damage has been done that will require replacement of the amp.
When you connected the LOC did you run both sets of input wires to the LOC to the same 2 wires that drive the factory sub? If you did, it MAY be a case where you created too low of an impedance for the amp in which case you could have blown an output transistor which would cause an amp to go into protection mode.
I would take a close look at the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also check with wires where they enter the plugs. Perhaps one got pulled out of the plug slightly and is making poor contact.
If that is all good, then the amp might be going into a protection mode and shutting down. In which case, it is possible that a fault still exists or damage has been done that will require replacement of the amp.
When you connected the LOC did you run both sets of input wires to the LOC to the same 2 wires that drive the factory sub? If you did, it MAY be a case where you created too low of an impedance for the amp in which case you could have blown an output transistor which would cause an amp to go into protection mode.
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Yeah that is strange.
I would take a close look at the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also check with wires where they enter the plugs. Perhaps one got pulled out of the plug slightly and is making poor contact.
If that is all good, then the amp might be going into a protection mode and shutting down. In which case, it is possible that a fault still exists or damage has been done that will require replacement of the amp.
When you connected the LOC did you run both sets of input wires to the LOC to the same 2 wires that drive the factory sub? If you did, it MAY be a case where you created too low of an impedance for the amp in which case you could have blown an output transistor which would cause an amp to go into protection mode.
I would take a close look at the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also check with wires where they enter the plugs. Perhaps one got pulled out of the plug slightly and is making poor contact.
If that is all good, then the amp might be going into a protection mode and shutting down. In which case, it is possible that a fault still exists or damage has been done that will require replacement of the amp.
When you connected the LOC did you run both sets of input wires to the LOC to the same 2 wires that drive the factory sub? If you did, it MAY be a case where you created too low of an impedance for the amp in which case you could have blown an output transistor which would cause an amp to go into protection mode.
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Here's a pic. It's the 6th on up from the bottom left that you see empty (I pulled the fuse out so you can see it)
Oh, and just for the record, there are only two wires that you should be splicing into for the subs. Someone told me in a different thread that you could "tap into front speakers" which was totally false and I ended up ruining the wiring at my factory amp and now my front speakers have never sounded the same. Shame.