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Since I have Fsport intake and planning to get strut bar, either Cusco or Tanabe but I'm leaning toward Cusco more. They already have blue theme color. Orange color was added as a little tweak there. Maybe I should looking for blue engine oil cap. Anyways, I appreciate all of your inputs.
I have a blue 'F Sport' aluminum oil cap. I bought it on eBay. The seller only has a gold one now. It's about $60. There was a red one a while ago.
Since I have had my rear fender rolled and fulled, the rear fenders do look a little bit weird now. Although it's not that obvious I know it's there looking weird. Have always been thinking of finding a solution to fix that little bump that you have on ur rear fender after pulling them as shown below.
I have finally found a solution but I do not know if they work. I did it anyways, so here we come. I have received these parts from Japan
YES THEY ARE RCF REAR FENDER BLADES.
These parts do not fit on our car directly with 3M tapes as they do come with clips that are supposed to be clipped onto the RCF rear bumper, so I went ahead and trimmed those clips off.
After trimming the clips off, it's super easy to put on as just 3M tape. Aligned with the rear fender and bumper and install them. They do not flow with the IS body 100% but I can accept the imperfection. Here come the result.
Installed a JL audio 12" subwoofer in sealed box w/ amp. Tapped the pre-amp wire harness in the trunk on my non-ML system. Sounds BEAUTIFUL. Makes a HUGE difference. At first I was MEH about the sound but the bass is tight and powerful and really makes the sound system 10x more enjoyable.
My next sound mod (and the only sound mod I will do) is just replace the dash corner speakers. Anyone know what size they are? They're 3.5" in the Lexus CT. I can't find this info anywhere. I installed a set in my 2016 CT and it made the sound a lot better. (speaking of highs)
One tip I wanted to point out... someone mentioned they tapped a blue wire on their 3IS on the smaller harness on the amp to get switched 12V. On my 2016, the switched 12V is a light brown wire. Confirmed with multimeter. It's the thin brown wire in the corner.
I forgot to mention I also installed LED front and rear turn signal bulbs. Powerful ones with 360 coverage. The rears are amber and fronts hyper whites. I intend on going amber on the front but had the hyper whites from a previous car.
It actually looks REALLY bright. I'm liking it... avoided hyper blink by installing resistors on the rear turn signals ONLY. Do NOT need one for each of the four lights. One resistor covers the whole side (circuit). I zip tied the resistor with the wire bundle behind the rear tail lights. Everything works flawlessly.
Installed a JL audio 12" subwoofer in sealed box w/ amp. Tapped the pre-amp wire harness in the trunk on my non-ML system. Sounds BEAUTIFUL. Makes a HUGE difference. At first I was MEH about the sound but the bass is tight and powerful and really makes the sound system 10x more enjoyable.
My next sound mod (and the only sound mod I will do) is just replace the dash corner speakers. Anyone know what size they are? They're 3.5" in the Lexus CT. I can't find this info anywhere. I installed a set in my 2016 CT and it made the sound a lot better. (speaking of highs)
One tip I wanted to point out... someone mentioned they tapped a blue wire on their 3IS on the smaller harness on the amp to get switched 12V. On my 2016, the switched 12V is a light brown wire. Confirmed with multimeter. It's the thin brown wire in the corner.
This is the kind of audio mod I've been wanting to do. Would you mind posting the part number for the JL Audio sub with amp. Also, did you have to run any wires from the battery or you only had to tap into the existing amp wire? Do you have any pictures? Thanks!
This is the kind of audio mod I've been wanting to do. Would you mind posting the part number for the JL Audio sub with amp. Also, did you have to run any wires from the battery or you only had to tap into the existing amp wire? Do you have any pictures? Thanks!
Yes for the amp you'll need to run power from the battery. Very easy. Panels pull apart with fingers. Poke hole in grommet in front firewall with screwdriver. Just pull the front and rear side sill plastic pieces (extremely easy pull OUT towards center of car and up). Route the power wire inside those factory loom clips. Tuck under B pillar panel using fingers. Fold back seat down, pull bottom cushion up and out so you can route wire underneath and inside trunk. Then for ground, I used the metal hook thing. The 10mm bolt grounds to chassis. For remote wire, tap into the smaller harness that goes to the amp. On my 2016, it's thin gauge light brown wire in the corner (can't miss it) -- always confirm with multimeter it has 12V when ignition on only. For sound signal, you'll tap the pre-amp wires for the rear speakers. They're the thin ones at the end. Green and Brown are positive for L and R. The ones on the bottom of them are the corresponding negative. Do one side at a time. You just use the line level input wire harness that comes with the amp.
For tapping the wires, I used wire taps.
To secure the box, I used bungee cords to the latch thing. It shouldn't move around but it's extra protection.
Didn't take many pics. If there's enough interest I can do a write up tomorrow and snap a pic of the final result. Not much to see. The box above but inside my trunk. Lol.
All the links above are everything you'll need. A zip tie and some electrical tape won't hurt to button things up.
These are the two plugs you'll be working with. You'll need to use a 10mm socket to remove the rear most right tie down latch to get the panel up that covers the factory non-ML (And ML) amp.
The rear speaker wires you'll tap into are on the large (forward) harness. They top corner ones green and brown are the positives and the ones directly below them (white and pink) are their respective negatives. Do one side at a time so you don't get mixed up. Even if you do get left and right mixed up on your line-in, shouldn't be a huge deal. But try to get them right anyway. The amp is held down with two 10mm nuts. pull up on the trunk liner near the amp's front nut mount a little so you can pull the amp out. The large harness has a special clip that you'll need to look at directly with a flashlight to see how to pry the black plastic part UP then the plug comes out easy.
Test fitting the front lip before the permanent install
Thanx for the pre fit I've been on the fence about lipping mine. I think it looks good, how are you planning to attach- through clip system or 3m and abs screws?
08-30-16, 10:44 AM
