New car break in period
New car break in period
05-07-14, 01:19 PM
#2
Congrats, didn't really follow it. Drove normally the first 30 miles before I hit it WOT. Gotta see what it has! after I saw it wasn't much I drove it normally the next 500 miles before I really got on it on the freeway. "Break in" is supposed to seat the piston rings, I'm at 3900 miles after 4 months and the oil level hasn't moved at all so if there is any getting past the rings it isn't measurable. Just drive it like you normally would.
05-07-14, 08:48 PM
#3
I tried to follow it. kept getting stuck in traffic. Idling is prob not good for any engine let alone a new one!
But, I didn't use cruise control for the first 1000 miles. kept changing up my speed. now at 3k miles. not using any oil.
But, I didn't use cruise control for the first 1000 miles. kept changing up my speed. now at 3k miles. not using any oil.
05-08-14, 10:19 AM
#7
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Did everyone install clearbra/paint protection film on their car? Is it really useful to prevent chips? Is it worth it?
I don't drive on highways on regular basis.
I don't drive on highways on regular basis.
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05-08-14, 12:14 PM
#8
New piston rings take time to "seat" during the break in period, if you have oil consumption then oil is getting past the rings cause they aren't seating properly... The idea of granny footing it for 1500+ miles is to allow the rings to seat before beating the crap out of it.
05-08-14, 12:18 PM
#9
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05-08-14, 12:51 PM
#10
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Many places only willing to install on front fender and front part of hood only. I don't understand why only protect the front part of the hood as stones can hit your hood on higher area than the front part.
05-08-14, 01:00 PM
#11
just a frame of reference, when you buy a GTR it already has 40 miles on it. The factory has a hard break in procedure that lasts for 25 miles (after the car is already dynoed) so by the time you get it, it is track ready. Never really believed in the break in procedure, I just drive it like normal after getting a car.
05-08-14, 01:17 PM
#12
Yea i'm pretty sure the piston rings in a GTR are not the same as our Naturally Aspriated IS engines. I'm doing what I did with my Evo 4g63 engine which is drive normal and rev it a bit to 5k for very short times occasionally to get some heat in the block. After 1k miles I will change the oil to redline synthetic.
Last edited by unowned; 05-08-14 at 01:22 PM.
05-09-14, 08:11 PM
#13
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Engine break-in is a two part affair.
1. Seating the piston rings: There is a specific procedure to seat the rings, but if you don't know it or are not comfortable doing it, just follow the rules in the manual. DO NOT allow the engine to totally warm-up before driving. Once the coolant temp starts to creep up, the engine is warm enough for normal operation. Do not beat on the engine until the coolant temp is within the normal range. Do not idle the engine for any extended period of time (cold or hot). Try not to take the car on short trips. Do not take the car on the highway for long periods without varying engine speed often.
2. Bearing wear-in: This occurs with time and it doesn't need much intervention from you. Just don't prematurely change your oil (ever). The engine's bearings will continue to break in for several thousand miles.
1. Seating the piston rings: There is a specific procedure to seat the rings, but if you don't know it or are not comfortable doing it, just follow the rules in the manual. DO NOT allow the engine to totally warm-up before driving. Once the coolant temp starts to creep up, the engine is warm enough for normal operation. Do not beat on the engine until the coolant temp is within the normal range. Do not idle the engine for any extended period of time (cold or hot). Try not to take the car on short trips. Do not take the car on the highway for long periods without varying engine speed often.
2. Bearing wear-in: This occurs with time and it doesn't need much intervention from you. Just don't prematurely change your oil (ever). The engine's bearings will continue to break in for several thousand miles.
05-09-14, 11:40 PM
#14
When it comes to breaking a car in, the manufacturer suggests to drive the car conservatively...
My opinion and observations are, however...
What they actually mean is, "We don't know if you're a novice, or a professional engine mechanic, so we suggest you just take it easy"
The truth is that engine break in can sometimes make or break a car 100k-200k miles later. You don't see professional tuners babying a car when they build it, they dyno it and do all sorts of procedures so the engine will hold up to future abuse.
In practice, it is always good to run several gears to high rpms (not WOT / redline) to build high pressure and heat in the combustion chamber. This actually ensures that piston rings seat well. From my understanding running them at too low of pressure leaves a chance for improper seating that can result in excessive oil consumption in the future.
The reason they say "don't drive the car at continuous rpm speeds for long during the break in" is because this can cause issues within the engines way of managing load, if I'm not mistaken.
When I had my 2IS engine rebuilt by Lexus, they didn't drive it more than 0.5 miles after the rebuild. I drove the car running the gears to pretty high rpms for the first 25miles, not speeding, just letting the gears run higher rpms instead of letting the car up shift. I now have 15,000 miles on the rebuilt engine and my mpg is just as good as the day I bought the car. As well as virtually no oil consumption between oil changes. Power is also fully there.
My opinion and observations are, however...
What they actually mean is, "We don't know if you're a novice, or a professional engine mechanic, so we suggest you just take it easy"
The truth is that engine break in can sometimes make or break a car 100k-200k miles later. You don't see professional tuners babying a car when they build it, they dyno it and do all sorts of procedures so the engine will hold up to future abuse.
In practice, it is always good to run several gears to high rpms (not WOT / redline) to build high pressure and heat in the combustion chamber. This actually ensures that piston rings seat well. From my understanding running them at too low of pressure leaves a chance for improper seating that can result in excessive oil consumption in the future.
The reason they say "don't drive the car at continuous rpm speeds for long during the break in" is because this can cause issues within the engines way of managing load, if I'm not mistaken.
When I had my 2IS engine rebuilt by Lexus, they didn't drive it more than 0.5 miles after the rebuild. I drove the car running the gears to pretty high rpms for the first 25miles, not speeding, just letting the gears run higher rpms instead of letting the car up shift. I now have 15,000 miles on the rebuilt engine and my mpg is just as good as the day I bought the car. As well as virtually no oil consumption between oil changes. Power is also fully there.
05-10-14, 02:32 PM
#15
"In practice, it is always good to run several gears to high rpms (not WOT / redline) to build high pressure and heat in the combustion chamber. This actually ensures that piston rings seat well. From my understanding running them at too low of pressure leaves a chance for improper seating that can result in excessive oil consumption in the future."
I believe part of what makes this procedure effective is to allow the non redline high rpms to break down naturally, that is let the car slow without using the brakes.
I believe part of what makes this procedure effective is to allow the non redline high rpms to break down naturally, that is let the car slow without using the brakes.