Loe

The problem that I see using an ML amp on a non-ML set-up is that the non-ML set up has a lower ohm rating / speaker, which may cause the ML amp to fail or overheat.

shirosan

That's a very good point. I will have to pull some more research on that. It might be possible to add in an in-line resistor if needed but that might defeat the purpose of some of the bonuses of the ML-amp.

shirosan

Loe, were you able to obtain a downloadable version of the amp harness? I did see some pictures posted on another thread but they are hard to make out. Thanks!

Loe

I forget the title name, but someone posted a picture of the actual harness. However, if you look at the harness itself, my diagram will make sense. It's a simple 30 PIN harness.

djh0002002

I couldn't ever find what I wanted here, ... so I just did it. Here is what I did:

purchase:
alpine 15" dual coil
alpine f6 4*150
alpine m6 1*600
alpine m6 1*600
alpine pxa-h800

in rear right side in trunk, alpine factory stereo. I played with this set up and this is what I ended up doing (pending getting more amps and more speakers).

I took the amp and left the pioneer factory connected to the rear door 2 speakers (4 in total), and the center front dash channel (1 speaker), then I leave the surround on for the factory system.

I connected the front door and front dash and subwoofer channels to the alpine pxa-h800

I took the front panel speakers and the front and the 2 left and right dash speakers (4 total speakers) and connected them to 1 channel each of the alpine f6

I took the 2 mono 1*600 and connected them to each coil of the 15.

factor speakers right now (pending focal component sets replacing door and dash)

I have the pxa-h800 controller mounted on my left side behind the seat belt belt.

I can control the amped factory speakers through the pxa-h800 unit.

I can control the rear door speakers and the front center channel through the factory system.

i'm going to add another f6 4 channel alpine and upgrade all remaining 9 speakers with focal kevlars.

I was able to find a 2013 color wire setup for the factory and it seemed to be fully correct.

when I upgrade the factory speakers i'm going to rewire completely while leaving factory wires and amp in place for re-connect when I sell the car.

ohh... I also put a dry cell battery in the car (instead of factory battery)

Jbreezie

Great thread, lots of info! Has anyone put an aftermarket amp for the factory speakers? Would they blow? Maybe just the door speakers?

Do you adjust the Lc2i second than the subwoofer amp? My installer told me he set the gains a little less than half way on the amp and 50% on the Lc2i. He didn't mention the Accubass. My system seems like it's lacking bass at times. I need to turn up the bass but safely. I have a JL JX1000d powering a 12" JL W3. My installer is afraid he will blow something! He's an authorized JL dealer too!

I just realized, I'm getting bass roll-off? I need to set the Accubass and threshold!!

sessionstu

I have the AccuBass turned to 3/4. The AccuBass threshold is turned up all the way. Bass is around 50 percent. I was getting a popping sound from the sub when I first set it up. I turned down the gain on my amp and turned up the bass setting on the head unit to fix it. I have a sub remote **** under the dash but never use it. I use the bass setting on the head unit. I usually have the bass setting on the head unit at the half way point. 80's music needs a few more clicks.

Personally, I think it sounds great the way it is. Adding an amp to the factory speakers will not produce a major improvement.

I would set up the LC2i first, then the amp. The AccuBass is the tricky part. You bought a powerful amp. I wouldn't expect the gain to go past half way. I have a 600W amp powering a 10" JL Audio sub and it's turned to half way. The gain on your amp should be higher than the Bass gain on the LC2i.

Jbreezie

I will do that thanks. I actually really listened to it today and it does sound good. Maybe the acoustics is different since I had this sub on my previous car.

Where did you set your mids? Currently have tremble and bass all the way and mids about half or more on the head unit.

sessionstu

Same. I have the mids at halfway and the treble at max. I prefer using the bass adjustment on the head unit over the remote bass ****. I find if I turn up the remote bass **** it increases the bass roll off. Turning up the bass on the head unit adds more clean bass.

What I might do in the future is put some aftermarket speakers in the ML speaker locations as I don't have a ML stereo. Then power those 4 or 5 speakers with an aftermarket amplifier. I think it makes more sense than running new speaker wire to the existing door speakers. If you want to power those speakers, or replacement speakers in the doors, you would have to run new speaker wire. I would either disconnect the door speakers and run the speakers in the front and rear of the car, or keep the door speakers active and try to balance the power.

shirosan

Well, if you were going to do about 50w RMS you shouldn't have to run new speaker wire. I'm thinking about amping the front doors, dash and rears at 50 RMS. I will probably used an amp like JL or Alpine that will push a true RMS out at any Ohm so I don't need to worry about ohm loads.

Though, I am curious if the non-ML systems already have wires going to the ML speaker locations.

It would be nice if Klipsch made some car audio speakers... I wouldn't mind putting two RF-7 II woofers in the rear

sessionstu

The existing speakers in the front and rear doors, center of the dash, and rear subwoofer, are connected to the factory amp under the driver's seat. You would have to cut the wires and splice into the speaker wire to keep the existing cable runs. I like the idea of keeping everything stock in case one day you decide to sell it and remove the aftermarket components. That's why I say you would have to run new speaker wires to the stock or aftermarket speakers.

I don't think non-ML cars have the wiring installed for the additional speakers. When I installed my coilovers I didn't see any additional cables in the back of the car. If they are there, they're hidden from sight.

shirosan

Great input! I will have to check under the driver's seat for the amp. I also saw a diagram showing the amp being in the trunk on the passenger side (where most tire jacks are). But that might have been wrong. I hope to check out the rear when I go to install the new escort 9500CI I just ordered.

Loe

The amp is in the trunk on the 3IS.

Jbreezie

$2k for the escort?! Is it also a flux capactior?!


QUOTE=shirosan;8921148]Great input! I will have to check under the driver's seat for the amp. I also saw a diagram showing the amp being in the trunk on the passenger side (where most tire jacks are). But that might have been wrong. I hope to check out the rear when I go to install the new escort 9500CI I just ordered. [/QUOTE]

sessionstu

Sorry man. I forgot what forum I was in. I have a ES300h. Yeah, the factory amp for the 3rd gen. IS is in the trunk. The factory amp for the 2013+ ES is under the driver's seat. The pioneer amp and wiring diagram is identical for both cars. I was do my research in the IS forum because nobody in the ES forum is modifying their cars.