06 IS 350 completely dead
02-24-17, 05:57 AM
#16
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Do you mean the small one on the drivers side? The Tiny one or the 150am one near the battery ? Thanks in advance.
02-24-17, 08:14 AM
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So I've pretty much got 2 different reasonings. Either the main 150amp fuse or o'reillys sold me a crappy alt. I'm going to check that main fuse today. Hopefully that's what the issue is. If not then I guess it's back to replacing the alt again. Does anyone have any experience or similar situations when dealing with the main 150 amp fuse ?
02-24-17, 08:59 AM
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02-24-17, 08:04 PM
#21
We'll...for now it works after replacing the alternator. My issues were: no backup cam. OBD wouldn't connect with the ecu..AC wouldn't blow cold air..power steering was tight and light was on...the oil temp gauge wouldn't work either. All the lights are off...vsc ps light the brake light and passenger airbag light and traction control all were on in which all are cleared now. Also the battery was showing 11.7-12 on the multi meter and now it's showing 13.7...no fuses were replaced. If I was you I would try and change the alternator and it is easily enough a DYI job instead of blowing a bunch of money at the dealer unless u can get it done way cheaper than the dealer. I'd for sure try and replace the alternator maybe you got a bad one...
02-24-17, 10:35 PM
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We'll...for now it works after replacing the alternator. My issues were: no backup cam. OBD wouldn't connect with the ecu..AC wouldn't blow cold air..power steering was tight and light was on...the oil temp gauge wouldn't work either. All the lights are off...vsc ps light the brake light and passenger airbag light and traction control all were on in which all are cleared now. Also the battery was showing 11.7-12 on the multi meter and now it's showing 13.7...no fuses were replaced. If I was you I would try and change the alternator and it is easily enough a DYI job instead of blowing a bunch of money at the dealer unless u can get it done way cheaper than the dealer. I'd for sure try and replace the alternator maybe you got a bad one...
02-25-17, 11:11 AM
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Alright guys. After removing the reman alt and taking it back to O'reillys it tested bad with a failed voltage regulator. Got a new one and everything Is back to normal. 14 volts going to the battery now. Also the reason the check engine light was on was due to the MAF SENSOR coming undone during the removal process.
Thanks for all of the insight from everyone. It was greatly appreciated !
Thanks for all of the insight from everyone. It was greatly appreciated !
02-25-17, 03:42 PM
#26
Looks like a lot of alternators have been going out recently, mine went out yesterday so I'll definitely have to use this as a resource. I'd just like to thank everyone in advance as I'm sure this will help a number of people... as far as the original poster, I'm glad you got it fixed. 
02-25-17, 04:11 PM
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Looks like a lot of alternators have been going out recently, mine went out yesterday so I'll definitely have to use this as a resource. I'd just like to thank everyone in advance as I'm sure this will help a number of people... as far as the original poster, I'm glad you got it fixed.
02-26-17, 11:35 PM
#28
Hey guys I'm in need Of some advice. I was driving my car and noticed that the steering became hard. Next thing you know the lights started flickering, inside and out. A few seconds later and the whole car died while I was driving. I did some research and came to the conclusion that it may have been a bad alternator (130K miles). I changed the alternator and the battery and it fired right up no problem. I drove home and to the movies without any issues. I went to get food and the same thing happened. The first sign that showed up on the dashboard was check VSC, then the steering became hard and the whole car shut down mid drive. Tried to start it again but it was dead. I Could barely roll up my windows. Has anyone had this problem before. I have no idea at this point. Less that 30 miles on the alternator and battery. Please help!
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