Reversed polarization of jumper cables
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Reversed polarization of jumper cables
Well let me start by saying what I did was completely stupid. I jumped started our is350 from a gmc sierra to a completely dead battery in the is350. I unintentionally revetsed the cable polarization. I tried to start the Lexus, but got no response. Then I smelled the battery cable plastic coverings melting. I yanked them off before a fire started, let them cool and corrected the cables. The Lexus started, but the radio did not work, the check engine light came on, the "check vsc" appeared and the engine shut down and wouldn't accelerate past idle. I checked the fuses, at least the common ones and did not see any were blown. I have no close Lexus dealer, but had the car towed to Toyota of San Luis Obispo for service. I have not yet been advised of the diagnosis but am concerned that I may have fried the computer, meaning many $$$. Has anyone had a similar experience and found they had to replace the computer? Thank you for any advice, besides "check the cables next time Ding Dong".
#2
Don't quote me on this, but I am pretty sure I have read in the past about this happening and there's a special main fuse that blows. I would google it for you, and could probably find the answer, but since I didn't screw up jump starting a car, I will leave it up to you.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you getafewliv
Yes, I will followup on the main fuse aspect and hopefully that will be the diagnosis. It's a lot cheaper than a new computer. By the way, learned a great lesson. Toss the cables and use a charging pack.
#4
I keep one of these in the car:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This way I can always jump start my own vehicle if necessary, and I have an emergency USB battery backup.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This way I can always jump start my own vehicle if necessary, and I have an emergency USB battery backup.
#5
Its a fusible link or main fuse under the hood. I'd check all of them just to be safe. It's a pain to replace the fusible link but you can still do it yourself. My link blows out at the battery cause I have an anl fuse which is easy to replace which blows out first.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Well the Toyota Service Mgr thinks it needs a new throttle body and the part only is $1500-2,000.
I ask them to confirm their diagnosis with Lexis. Final diagnosis showed a blown ecu fuse. Final cost: $62.50. Thank you Lexus for that fuse protection.
I ask them to confirm their diagnosis with Lexis. Final diagnosis showed a blown ecu fuse. Final cost: $62.50. Thank you Lexus for that fuse protection.
Last edited by jon2ly; 01-24-17 at 05:15 PM.
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Z28302 (04-28-19)
#9
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (2)
Double check every fuse in the fuse box. I had accidentally installed a battery backwards and it took out the fuse link (not your issue), and a handful of small fuses. One of the smaller fuses being blown caused the same issue you are experiencing. It would just idle and not accelerate. I don't recall the exact fuse it was, but I can say my symptom was the same as yours.
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jon2ly (01-24-17)
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Reversed polarization of jumper cables
Two other things happened; radio went dead and the passenger windows would not roll up or down from the driver master control. Both were easily fixed. A 10 amp fuse on the passenger side fuse box fixed the radio and by going to each door window switch, I rolled each window up and then down holding the switch on in both positions for three seconds. After doing that, the master switch worked fine. The IS is back to the fine machine it is.
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