Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

The car is not a hybrid. It has an alternator and a typical starter.

Re3iRtH, with regard to the ECU itself, assuming we are speaking about the engine ECU, there are only 2 things that really need to be done when replacing the ECU in a North American spec 2IS, that is to sync the ECU with the smart key system (no programming or computer required to do this) and the second thing is to program the VIN into the ECU, this can be done with a TechStream or other scantool (provided it has the capability). There is no calibration or programming required beyond that. Many independent shops will likely have the tools to do this, however any Toyota or Lexus dealership will of course be able to do it.

The car will start and run without the VIN being programmed, however it will throw a code because of it.

There are many things that can cause issues with starting of course, and while the engine ECU is an integral part of that system, there are a lot of other simple issues that can cause issues as well. All that said of course, if a TechStream is unable to communicate with the ECU, it is possible that there are issues with it, but it could also be a problem with another component as well.

Hopefully Toyota can get things sorted out for you, they will definitely have the tools required, hopefully they have the right people to figure it out as well. If they need parts I'm sure they can be shipped from the nearest Lexus dealership.

Good luck.

Jeff

bangdangvn

I am certain he has an alternator as this is not a hybrid vehicle.

Htony

Yup, where did I get the idea it wa RX hybrid. I must cross read something. Sorry for that.

Re3iRtH

Just wanted to update everyone on what happened.

So I had it towed to the first shop. Eventually they said the car had a bad ECU. The main mechanic said he was >98% sure it was a bad ECU. I just happened to call another shop, and they
suggested I get a second opinion because this same shop gave another customer the WRONG diagnosis of a bad ECU. It turned out to be something totally different (and cheaper).

Instead of having the car towed to Anchorage, I decided to have this shop tow it to Toyota dealer in Fairbanks. First thing they tell me is, I have a dead battery. Even though my battery was less than
1.5 years old, I think since the car sat for a few weeks in -20F weather, that probably didn't help. Told them to fix it. Then they told me I had a "bad key fob". I told them this wasn't the case because I
had used the key fob to get stuff out of the car when it was on their lot. It wasn't a bad key fob.

Eventually, they told me it was a bad "FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR SENSOR". I was like "are you kidding me"? Before I even had this problem, I happened to take the car to an Autozone, who
for free on their scanner this exact code came up, I believe. So, two shops could not diagnose what autozone saw for free? Okkkaaayy. So parts and labor for this sensor were over $750!!

All told, I spent $350 at the first shop, and close to $1100 at Toyota. Since the first shop completely misdiagnosed the issue and told me to tow my car to Anchorage, I believe ethically they should
at least refund my money. Not only that, I ended up BUYING A NEW CAR, because the ECU they told me was dead would have been prohibitive expensive and time consuming. Your guys' thoughts?

Htony

Title says 'No signal to ECU' Then it must've been signal originating from fuel pressure regulator ... Many mechanics have no proper basic knowledge of electronics.
Working on newer cars, young kids fresh out of tech school is better many times.

Re3iRtH

So, fresh younger kids out of school is the better choice? Interesting. $1600 to replace a sensor and a battery, oh well.

Does anyone have any idea if this has something to do with the "fuel pressure sensor" recall? My car has about 9 active recalls and this is one of them. Since Toyota charged me for this in full, do I have some recourse in asking for the $$ to be refunded? My car is at the same dealership as we speak getting all of those recalls done. Thanks y'all.

Re3iRtH

I attached screenshots. First one is the shop who told me ECU is dead and I needed to have my car towed 400 miles. 2nd one is Toyota dealership doing work on fuel pressure sensor which I payed for in full.

jbtvt

An interesting problem, I would never have thought that a short in one of the many components inputting to the ECU would prevent it from outputting codes, and I've worked on a good number of Toyota/Lexus vehicles. So, glad to know this. Really, really strange. Did the mechanic say how he managed to trace it to the FPS specifically? I don't suppose you have any wiring diagrams for this car?

As to your question it can't hurt to try to bargain with the other shop, but honestly I think you lucked out in finding a mechanic this competent even at the dealer. Electrical issues can be extremely difficult to pinpoint. So for a shop that doesn't specialize in the brand it doesn't sound like they did all that bad really, they checked for power and ground to the ECU, and without spending hours and hours poring over wiring diagrams and ECU internals that's really all they could do. Without knowing more it almost seems like the fault lies with Lexus for programming the ECU in this manner. More than half of the shop's bill was just for the tows (and $75 is hella cheap for that). It might be fair to ask them to knock off one of the tow charges, but ethically you really should pay them.

And you don't want to be burning bridges when you're the new guy in town, who knows who they know...

Re3iRtH

Yea, it is worth a shot to ask the first shop for a small reimbursement. One thing through, they told me I had a dead ECU, and it wasn't going to be fixed in that city. I ended up buying a new vehicle based on their recommendations. It would have taken weeks and months to ship/tow my Lexus and get it fixed. I would think I should pay based on value delivered. I mean, they stated with conviction that I had a dead ECU, if they were honest and said "I don't know", I would have felt A-OK paying them.

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

I'm surprised I overlooked this thread when I had my own fuel pressure sensor problem back in January. When the sensor goes, it prevents the car from starting up as it gets kicked into a "safe mode" so to say. This prevents any codes from being read while it's in this mode. I have mechanics in my family yet they didn't know what was wrong with it when I let them look at the car. All thought it was a bad ECU. I had the fuel pressure sensor gasket recall performed a year prior to it dying. So after some searching on here, only a 1-2 people ever reported having a problem with it (one was in the GS forum iirc) so I gave that a try and that was it. When I asked here after fixing it, it seems like a couple others had theirs die a year or so after doing the recall. When doing the recall, if they do not twist the harness with the sensor, they can damage the wires. I suspect that was what happened to mine, and overtime, from the heat in Louisiana to the cold up in Chicago during the winter finally killed my sensor. Dropping the sensor will also damage it. Was a cheap fix from eBay, only cost me about $30. Dealer will sell it, but only with the fuel rail, which is why it costs $300+ from the dealer. There is an updated part number, but I ended up finding the same part number that came on the car. The hardest part was taking off that hex bolt that's on the intake manifold if you don't have a long enough hex key. I know I wrote up a little DIY to do it if anyone else ever has that problem, can easily find it doing a search on here.

In the future, anyone can just unplug their sensor if they suspect that it's the problem. The car will start up, but I wouldn't drive with it unplugged. Should be replaced ASAP.

Joeb427

iTrader: (1)

I can't help you with your issue but do find your moving from Hawaii to Alaska interesting.

jbtvt

Here's the thing - if it was my own vehicle and I had this problem I would have spent hours-days digging through wiring diagrams and ECU internals and running tests and probably figured it out. For a mechanic to have that done in a bay they're paying rent on, heat and electricity in, by an employee they're paying wages and matching contributions to would have cost you as much as a new ECU, with no guarantee it would be a different diagnosis in the first place. Your symptoms match a dead ECU exactly. See below (above). It's not their fault you bought a new car based on a diagnosis almost any other shop would have given you.

I'm only a hobbyist mechanic but if I was doing the repair for someone else I'd have told them the same thing - check EBay for a used ECU and swap it in, see if the problem goes away. Some pros probably don't want to deal with used electronic components, too much risk.

Edit-just noticed the dates. Probably a little late to ask for reimbursement, no, but can't hurt I spose.

Re3iRtH

Thanks for your comments, guys. I decided to let the first shop go. They totally misdiagnosed the issue and lead me down the wrong path, but they did use their shop time and space.

As far as the fuel pressure sensor they replaced, is this the one covered under the recall for our cars? If so, I should definitely ask for this to be reimbursed to me.