IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Is my alignment good with picture? Please advise

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Old 10-25-16, 06:36 PM
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The350Girl
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Default Is my alignment good with picture? Please advise

I got the car aligned last week and mechanic told me 2 of the front camber bolts left and right are seized and could not adjust, they tried to but the bolt won't move both front left and right and then they said my camber is good so no need to try more, it didn't need to said the mechanic, here the picture of my alignment setting, mechanic also said that if they break the bolt the whole Lower Control Arm need to be replace, can we just replace the bolts and bushing only ? why the Whole Lower Control Arm ? thanks in advance
Attached Thumbnails Is my alignment good with picture? Please advise-350alignment-014.jpg  
Old 10-25-16, 08:12 PM
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Viktimize
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Everything is within spec. Shouldn't be any problems. I haven't looked at the camber bolts in these yet, so can't help you there.
Old 10-26-16, 01:30 PM
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Gville350
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Your front specs look better than the rears! I'd leave the front be for now. If anything, look into getting rear camber arms to help equal out the rear camber on the two tires if you'd like.
Old 10-26-16, 04:07 PM
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The350Girl
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thank you all
Old 10-26-16, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Your front specs look better than the rears! I'd leave the front be for now. If anything, look into getting rear camber arms to help equal out the rear camber on the two tires if you'd like.
What's wrong with the rear camber? It looks fine on the readout after the alignment was done.
Old 10-27-16, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Viktimize
What's wrong with the rear camber? It looks fine on the readout after the alignment was done.
Yes, it's in the "green"; however, they're half a degree apart from each other. To maximize handling performance and tire wear, it'd be best to get them more in-line with each other. With it being so far apart as well, you might have a possibly worn bushing or dare I say a slightly bent arm.
Old 10-27-16, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Yes, it's in the "green"; however, they're half a degree apart from each other. To maximize handling performance and tire wear, it'd be best to get them more in-line with each other. With it being so far apart as well, you might have a possibly worn bushing or dare I say a slightly bent arm.
called the owner of th shop he said he will re-alignment for me because last time his employee done it, that man he just hire and no experience, when he was adjusting the computer shown 0.0 degree but when he printed out it looked worst to me and yes especially the rear, i'm a girl but i can tell the number and digit by the math.
Old 10-28-16, 12:21 PM
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^Let us know how the second alignment goes!
Old 10-28-16, 05:43 PM
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half degree ain't bad. But never hurts to be perfect.
Old 10-28-16, 06:29 PM
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The350Girl
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here the picture, this time the owner re-do the alignment and the car now perfect,

But we have encountered another seized problem, today i asked them to change the transfer case fluid the front, the drain bolt for front transfer case is seized no matter what they tried, they almost break the bolt and bolt now looks squeeze without thread, he gave me a penetration spray bottle he ask me to spray it everyday until the next oil change they will try again, anyone of you have any solution ?

i don't get lucky with Lexus, one problem to another, how could 2011 Lexus seizes too much ? now i'm stuck with overdue front transfer case !
Attached Thumbnails Is my alignment good with picture? Please advise-alignment2-002.jpg  
Old 10-29-16, 06:51 PM
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Though in spec according to the printout, that does seem like lot of toe in the rear there. Many have said to get a close as possible to 0; but that can only be done with adjustable toe arms. Same with getting the rear camber spec closer to each other. Depending on how long you want to keep the car, the investment of the arms might help save you money down the road on tires.
Old 10-30-16, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Though in spec according to the printout, that does seem like lot of toe in the rear there. Many have said to get a close as possible to 0; but that can only be done with adjustable toe arms. Same with getting the rear camber spec closer to each other. Depending on how long you want to keep the car, the investment of the arms might help save you money down the road on tires.
Screen showed -0.0 but when he prints out the number always different, i don't know why, even if he tries to set at 0 when it prints the number will change he said, now i feel the ride much better then before no pulling to one side like before his employee done, no shimmy as well, i might find a good alignment shop that do Lexus, yep the rear seems off a bit.
Old 10-30-16, 04:23 PM
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^Now that sounds like a WTF moment. The printout and the on-screen readings should be exactly the same. Anyhow, glad the driving feel is better!
Old 10-30-16, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Gville350
^Now that sounds like a WTF moment. The printout and the on-screen readings should be exactly the same. Anyhow, glad the driving feel is better!
I suspect his employee forgot to tight a bolt thats why i fell shimmy in the 1st alignment. thanks Gville350
Old 10-31-16, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by The350Girl
here the picture, this time the owner re-do the alignment and the car now perfect,

But we have encountered another seized problem, today i asked them to change the transfer case fluid the front, the drain bolt for front transfer case is seized no matter what they tried, they almost break the bolt and bolt now looks squeeze without thread, he gave me a penetration spray bottle he ask me to spray it everyday until the next oil change they will try again, anyone of you have any solution ?

i don't get lucky with Lexus, one problem to another, how could 2011 Lexus seizes too much ? now i'm stuck with overdue front transfer case !
It's not a Lexus issue. You bought a car from Queerbec because of how good of a price it seemed to be. Everything is salted to hell there, which means you get cars with rust and lots of corrosion and seized parts. Another reason they are so cheap, is because after a car being salvaged, you can repair it and re-register it while still keeping an active title status. So you have no idea if the car you buy there has been written off in the past or not.


Personally I would get a new drain plug and drill out the old one.


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