ohiois350

iTrader: (13)

Yeah my rear left just seized yesterday i stop driving now and wait until the weekend to fix it.

scott1256c

If the pin in the caliper is seized, how did you even get a new brake pad in there? I couldn't when mine were seized. Anyway, if the wear on the inner and outer pads was radically different, that would be a good indicator that the slide pin wasn't doing much sliding.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Correct. My inner pads were all but gone, but the outers were fine and had plenty meat left.

drwafk

Just did my brakes 2 days ago with this very same problem. THe caliper pin was seized. I think there should be a safety recall for this issue. It was the driver side fyi. Heres what I did to fix it.
Supplies/Tools: Rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, leather/mechanics glove for right hand, socket and wrench (I think 17mm, cant remember), brake grease, wire brush/sand paper, penetrating/brake cleaner.
1. Remove brake pad retaining spring clips and pins.
2. Remove inner brake pad first, collapse the piston with a tool that wont scratch the rotor.
3. Remove outer brake pad.
4. Remove top sliding pin/bolt.
5. Pry (carefully with hand or with a tool) down the outer part of the caliper. This will take some muscle. I'm the strongest person I know and it was a little tough for me. Once its down, push it back up, then back down, then up. Work that sucker loose. Just stand there and pump it over and over again until its somewhat manageable. Trust me, it'll get easier. Just pump for about a solid minute.
5. Bend the outer part of the caliper down until its clear of the rotor because right about now you are going to get that mallet and pound the **** out of the caliper.
6. Hit the outer caliper over and over again with the mallet until is backed off the inner caliper (it can be done, you need to put some effort into it). Support it so it doesn't fall as the brake line is still connected.
7. Clean the pin (inner still connected to the car caliper) vigorously with a steel wire brush, sand paper, what ever it takes to make it smooth again. Do the same for the slide pin receptacle (female part on the outer caliper). I used a round file and scoured the hell out of it. In and out, In and out, in and out, in and out, in and out...until i was tired and feeling euphoric.
8. I also took off the grease dust boot and wiped it clean. Do not use brake cleaner, you don't want to corrode the rubber and you dont want to trap brake cleaner in there when reassembling. It'll eat the new grease.
9. Lube the **** out the pin/receptacle and reassemble.
10. Test drive, braking a few times. Park, get out, touch the rotor and see if its hot. Don't be go and burning yourself.

2010 IS350 for clarification.
I did both sides and the passenger side was starting to rust/seize so I did it as a preventative measure. I did NOT have to buy new calipers and it took 1.5 hours just because I took my time. The car stops on a dime now.

Bichon

There was, Lexus SSC-9LB, though I don't know if it is applicable to your car, as you don't mention what model year or model you own in your post or profile.

drwafk

Thanks, i edited my post. I've got a 2010 and there's no safety bulletin/recall for my year, but there should be.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

And even if you had this recall performed (like was mentioned in the history of my car), it didn't fix the issue. Just probably delayed it some.