JDMToyotas

Looking into getting a system for the 350

Looking into two 12 inch sub box. Will this be able to fit in the trunk? (anyone have pics so i can see how much space trunk 12's take). I want to do the bass setup first since it easier to do then the voice setup.

Whats the best interior speakers you guys are running on the IS? I had Polk audio speakers in my old car as the vocals/interior and them things sound clear and loud as day running to a Audiopipe 2000w amp

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

Here are some pics in this thread.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...our-setup.html

Here is what I did to my car.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...with-pics.html

aznKewlguy

iTrader: (5)

Honestly the stock system on our cars are decent, I would highly recommend deadening your doors and rear deck first. I am an audiophile and after doing that I went almost a year without adding a sub.

Box size depends on your choice of subs, some subs do well in extremely smal boxes so you should do some research.

alphaking

Used to be huge into SQ until the cars started having the one piece stereo/ac vent units and ended up being more of a headache than it's worth. I agree, the stereos in these cars sound excellent (and I don't have the Mark Levinson). If they sounded like an old accord stock stereo, I probably wouldn't be able to sleep until I swapped everything out.

JDMToyotas

Thats an interesting route. How much would deadening run me ? The box I was looking into was two 12 inch kickers comp7. Debating between a single 12 or two 12's

JDMToyotas

The sounds system in our cars are good and I dont have the ML either. But coming from my old car that had a full system ( full interoir two amps two 12's ) I miss feeling that bass. I like the voice on the stock interior speaker so I think just adding a bass setup will make me happy.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I agree with starting with Fat Mat all around the car. No sense in having a great system if all you here is a rattle here and a jingle there. Due to partial hearing loss, I got out of the car audio game; but I had MB Quartz highs and mids and JL lows and subs. Powered by whatever was on sale; started with Premier, then MTX, then Orion, then JL.

Nixcision

iTrader: (3)

I ran a dual 10" box in the trunk --- fit with plenty of space to spare for bigger subs if needed.

As far as deadening goes, I never did go that route but I would recommend it for your trunk lid if you wanted to single out a piece and save on money.
That was the ONLY thing that made noise on my car when the subs were at full power, though I'm pretty certain it was mostly just my license plate and cover.

I blew my stock sub, so I found this to be a suitable option for my music tastes! Are you planning to go with a ported box setup or a sealed box setup? This is important with regards to what "type" of bass you want.

dcguy

Often times it doesn't matter how many subs you have. Big boxes take up alot of space. Enclosure (box) plays a huge roll in the setup as well. If designed correctly with a good sub (perhaps a sundown) and slightly oversized amp to avoid clipping, you can get a heck of a bang out of a single 10'' sub in the correctly built box specifically for it. Ive seen 2 cheap 15's in a mass manufactured box get beat out with a single quality 10 or 12

dcguy

Sealed enclosures are quiet but can be extremely clean as far as SQ... but on a louder note when you go ported/bandpass/slotport you can really change the pitch of the music by adusting the port for a specific frequency. Used to listen to alot of hip hop and rap back in the day a 29hz port is generally what i tuned to, rock and that kind of stuff a 35hz-40hz would be a good frequency to tune to

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

If started with a sealed 12" JL sub in the trunk with a 500/1 JL amp. Sounded great to start off with until I went with my larger system. When I did my larger system I did all matting on the two front doors, rear deck, completed trunk, trunk lid, and license plate area. Start off small and see how you like things and progress from there.

In the door photo I went with the Hertz 3 way speakers and Hertz 4" center channel in the center of dash.

alphaking

Yep, I started with MB Quart highs and JL 12W3's with Clarion amps. Upgraded to CDT Audio 3 pc highs in kickpanels with Zapco C2K amps, same JL subs. Pioneer Premier P1R deck with the burr brown components.. Loved it, but got to the point I was afraid to park it anywhere. Ended up selling everything in '04.

Definitely agree with all the Dynamat recommendations. I'll probably be doing mine as my door panel rattles so much i keep the folding storage half open to keep it from buzzing. Even if you change your mind on subs, it'll still kill some of the road noise, and it's an easy install with a heat gun.

Fojo

I have a full focal setup with an audison bit one processor and a sony headunit. if i could go back and do anything different, i would skip the sony heading and just use the audition as the master and run all of that through the stock head unit. and go active with a 3 way component set up front. i have k2 power 2 way component sin front and k2 power coaxes for rear fill in the doors. i have a focal 13" sub in the back too. my trunk isn't pretty but it gets the job done very well. i don't have the money anymore to make it pretty lol. i have the door panels and trunk dynamited and stuffed with old tee shirts lmao. no rattles whatsoever from the music it is dreamy.

NickTee

Matting the entire surface with CLD material is a waste of money and adds unnecessary weight. 25-50% placed strategically is more than enough. MLV is what you want 100% coverage with

Fojo

Good point, I have little squares of dynamat in the doors just enough to get rid of any metallic noises when knocked on the outside of the car door. I also have it strategically placed in the door panels too, but I will be getting the doors replaced because of the melting crap soon so all of that mat will go away: what is this MLV material we should have 100% coverage?